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Project YJ - Axle & Tcase Swap
Introduction
Preparation
Installation
Impressions
Costs
Thanks
Epilogue

 
 

 
 
Project YJ Articles
Introduction
Detailed History
Rubicon Express
Spring-Over
Bumper/Tire Rack
Rhino Liner
Scout Axle Swap
Detroit Lockers
vs. Lockrights
TeraLow Dana 300 4:1 Kit
Go 2 Twister Dana 300 Re-Indexer
Bestop Supertop
Transmission Overhaul
TJ Flares Install
Rocker Armour
Bestop TrailMax Aqua Sport Seats
Kilby Gas Tank Skid Plate
Teraflex Revolvers
Kilby High Volume Automatic Transmission Pan
Hi-Steer Conversion

 
 

Impressions

This project was a lot more work than I anticipated and this short write-up doesn't do justice to the long hours involved. On the other hand, a more organized person could do this faster and better than I did. I would strongly recommend having a schedule and setting intermittent goals to keep the project moving along without getting yourself stressed out. I could have saved money by thinking long-term and determining ALL the pieces I would need. The sooner you know this, the more opportunity you have to find these parts in salvage yards or through private sales.

The long DoetschTech shocks which came with my RE SOA kit were too long for my new axles which utilized the higher axle-side shock mounts. I ended up with 3" available compression in the front and 2" in the back. I was actually bottoming out my shocks on mild street bumps. I solved this problem by moving the rear DoetschTechs to the front and putting a pair of cheap ($20 ea) Canadian Tire MotoMaster shocks in the rear. These cheap shocks were discards from my friend's FJ45 Land Cruiser which he had just converted to SOA. I expected these shocks to lower my articulation but when I ramped it 5 days later, it scored a 1052 RTI. Not bad at all! This was the first time I had ever ramped my Jeep so I can't compare it to my older SOA performance. But that's not the point. The point is that even with these shorter shocks, I still have a very respectable amount of suspension travel. To put it in perspective, my friend's TJ with a Teraflex 3" lift (with sagging springs, however) scored between 800 and 900...and his Jeep performs extremely well relying on that suspension (he has no lockers). Basically, I'm not feeling any urgency to fabricate higher frame-side shock mounts just so I can re-install the longer shocks.

Rear under carriage view Here's how the exhaust was re-routed. Looks like my pinion might be tilted a bit too high. Fortunately, the adjustable perches prevent this from being a time-consuming job. Adjustable perches Lou Feger's adjustable spring perches Side view of Jeep The final result! It sure is nice to have free-wheeling hubs again. I can finally run 33" tires and lockers without worrying about snapping axle shafts.

The ride with the extra full-length leaves was a bit firmer than the older springs but much more stable. It handled highway bumps better without ruining the comfortable ride. It also allowed me to travel much faster offroad, absorbing large bumps easily.

Moving the lower shock mounts higher made a HUGE difference offroad. I took my Jeep out for three days of offroading once I got it back on the road and I only dragged on the rocks once. If you do an SOA conversion without moving the shock mounts, you're missing out on a major advantage of the SOA. On one trail run, I was following a Scout II (with Dana 44s, of course) with 33" tires (same as me) and he got hung up a few times because of his low-hanging spring packs & shock mounts. I drove right over the stuff he got stuck on.

Front perch & shock mount If you look carefully, you can see the extra 1/2" plate I welded on top of the spring perch to provide clearance between the drag link & spring pack. The front shock mounts were also raised so they don't hang below the axle tubes. Perch & shock mount The rear shock mounts were mounted so that they don't hang below the axle tubes Front under carriage view There's just enough clearance for the drag link under the spring pack. Bump steer isn't too bad. Nothing hangs below the axle housing.

Even though I had setup the front pinion angle for a CV shaft and the non-CV shaft I ended up using was not balanced, I've detected no vibration even at speeds up to 100 km/h. I think a lot of that might have to do with the fact that the front shaft is one of the skinny ones used in pre-1990 YJs.

The bigger brakes on the Scout axles are great. While my brake pedal still feels too soft for my liking, the brakes grab much better and can lock up my wheels without too much effort. Since my Jeep is my daily commuter vehicle, it's no wonder that I appreciate the bigger brakes more than any of the other advantages gained with the axle swap.

The 3.55 gears which these axles came with were an improvement over the 3.07 ratio in my D30/D35 axles. However, it's not a huge improvement. I'd still like to have 4.11 gears with my 33" tires.

THINGS TO DO

I still have to re-route the vent lines to the axle breather tubes. I found an NPT fitting that I could screw into the front D44 but the rear had a very coarse thread. I may have to drill a new hole back there and thread it to NPT specs.

To prevent the dreaded axle-wrap problem, I have to build some kind of anti-wrap bar. I'll probably make one which mounts firmly to the axle housing and is shackled to the xfer case crossmember.

That transfer skid plate is hanging too low. Ron Gooch did a similar swap and modified his factory skid plate. I'm going to copy his design.

I want to find another Ford front D44 diff cover for the rear. The pinion angle is really high so I need some way to add more oil. The higher fill hole on those covers will do the job.

If you have questions about this swap, feel free to email me at: lars@bc4x4.com.


 
 
 

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