How To: Dana 30 Shift Motor Vacuum to Cable Conversion

Here is a diagram to show how I modified my shift motor to manual cable operation. The system works well on my 86 comanche and is cheap to do.

A few notes.

• The cable attachment point has a few advantages in that the fulcrum is lower on the fork thereby balancing the force applied to the clutch and rod.
• The cable end is a wire core, so when you pull or push the knob you have to just apply a little pressure until you can feel the cable move out. This is because the clutch has to "find" the spline on the left axle in order to slide over it. By moving the truck slightly, or clutching a little, that will help in the engagment/disengagement.
• My diagram shows the core wire thru the eyelet and twisted over. It would be better to place a crimp sleeve over it. Better still, is to tin with solder the inside of the sleeve and the cable wire then crimp the sleeve while heating.
• You can place a return spring over the end of the rod and inside the hose if you would like more disengage pressure. Contact me and I can show you how. But it really isn't needed I feel.
• If you deviate from my plan, remember anything you place inside the housing must be secured properly as the housing slopes toward the axle which would cause anything falling off to get ground up in the axle mechanism.
• The rubber coupling at the end can be bought at any home hardware and it's just a dishwasher drain reducer and comes with the clamps.
• A return spring can be placed in coupling for a stronger pull back but I found it's not needed.
• It's really important is to stress that all parts have to be tight as the axle takes a pounding and things can come loose screwing up the innards.
• The rubber coupler can deterioratebecause it's not neoprene based for oil resistance. But I figure what the heck, replacing it for $3 once every 3 years isn't that bad.