(You want amps? I got your amps!)

PRELUDE

WHAT YOU HAVE

Here's a photo of my original alternator.

• 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota
• 1991-1998 Jeep Cherokee
• 1991-1992 Jeep Comanche
• 1992-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
• 1991-1998 Jeep Wrangler

Note: I have only confirmed this entire modification on a 1997 4.0L Jeep Wrangler. I am unsure as to what motor combinations the above vehicles came with in conjunction with this particular 90A alternator. This is an "ON YOUR OWN AND YOUR OWN RISK" type of modification. If your wiring is not up to the task, etc., you could burn your jeep to the ground or injure yourself. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!

WHAT YOU NEED

Here's what you're looking for.

• 1997-1998 Dodge B.Series Van
• 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota
• 1998 Dodge Durango
• 1997-1998 Dodge Ram Pickup
• 1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I got mine from a local Jeep yard for USD$30 out of a very clean 98 5.2L Limited that only had 60,000 miles on it when it was wrecked.

Here are the two alts. side by side. The higher amp. alternator is on the left.

I did quite a bit of research and found that the basic mounting dimensions and connections were the same between the two. You can see the physical size difference of the two. As a matter of fact the 136A alternator was 1 kg heavier. The only major difference was the direction of the plastic boot on the back of the alternator and the pulley is a 7 groove vs. my TJ's 6 groove. It was found that there was a 1 mm difference between the pulley diameters, but this is negligible and does not need to be addressed.

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO TO INSTALL

The first major difference between the two is the direction of the plastic boot. For ease of installation and clearance, this needs to be changed. By swapping the boots from the Wrangler to the Cherokee alternator, this change is easily accomplished. The boots are keyed (see red arrows) and install over the indicated stud below and locate on the small hole in the case (see green arrow).

The Wrangler boot is on the left and directs the exit of the boot away from the engine.

Details of the plastic boot positioning.

The other very minute detail to be attended to was the "spacer bushing" on the rear ear of the top alternator mount. The Cherokee's alternator's bushing (probably from rolling around on the floor) had been pushed too far inward and needed to be pressed back out. I accomplished this via a vise and large socket. Don't worry about pressing the bushing too far out because the mounting bolt will draw the bushing back tight again. The picture below shows the bushing after I pressed it out of the way:

The spacer bushing.

Finally, I mentioned that the Cherokee's pulley was a 7 groove pulley. If you wanted the extra work, you could simply swap the two alternators' pulleys. However, you do not need to do this. If you bias the belt to the rearward most six grooves, the belt and alternator will align and run just fine. You can see the alternator installed in the pic below with the belt biased towards the back.

Installed and ready to go. Notice how that the front groove on the pulley is unused.

Well, after the install, I tested the bad boy out. Everything seems to work just fine and I can crank the old stereo and run every electronic device in my jeep and hook up the Taurus fan to the battery and nothing even "blinks." Anyway, hopefully, someone will find this article helpful and save a few dollars in the process.

- Tod "Firetoad"