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Vancouver Island Cleanup Trip

Author: Larry Soo

Location: Southern Vancouver Island, B.C., Canada near Sooke (see map)
Dates: April 20 - 21, 1996

Day 0: (Friday)

It's funny how my long weekends always seem to keep me busier than when I'm at work. I spent my Friday off from work frantically trying to finish my bumper/tire carrier in time to catch the 9pm ferry to Vancouver Island. Sue and I were going to spend the weekend with Rob Bryce, John Barron, and the rest of the Island Rock Crawlers 4x4 club. This was a recently created club and one of their first official events was a clean-up of a local offroading area.

I knew I wouldn't be able to complete my bumper; it still needed to be capped, the air fittings weren't installed, I needed to add bumper stops to tighten the spare tire, and the vertical posts prevented the license plate from folding down so I couldn't re-fuel my Jeep, and I still had to run CB wire to the new antenna mount. However, Rob had been telling me some hairy stories about the trails John had shown him so I knew I needed a tow strap attachment point at the back of my Jeep. The stock bumperettes just wouldn't do.

At 7pm, the paint was still tacky as I bolted the bumper to my YJ and hurriedly packed my YJ (in under one hour...a new personal best!!).

We arrived on the island around 11pm and dropped off our gear at Rob's house. Then we went to a local pub and met John and his girlfriend, Lori.

Day 1: (Saturday)

Early the next morning, I removed my license plate and bungeed it to the spare tire. I also routed the CB antenna wire to the new mount on the tire rack. With those critical mods completed, we bought our camping food at Save-On and headed west towards Harbourview Road, which is the Shields Lake trailhead near Sooke, where we would meet up with the club. Arriving at the meeting place, I saw a motley collection of 4x4s which were obviously designed for running trails and not posing on the main drag. Vehicles like John's aluminum-bodied, ARB'd, dual-winch Land Cruiser and Wayne's bob-tailed, fully locked, 8274 Warn, dual xfer case Toyota long-box made it clear that these guys were walkin' the walk. As it turns out, they were also very serious about cleaning up the area to preserve the legal access to this tight, confusing network of twisting, climbing, rock-crawling trails.

It didn't take long to notice that most of the garbage was left by people who didn't want to pay the fee to dump at a legitimate garbage disposal site. We came across discarded appliances, vehicles, tires, and worst of all, broken bags of _used_ diapers (Rob Bryce immediately made a bee-line for the nearest pressure wash station after dumping that load...heh heh, get it?).

The juxtaposition of rotting building supplies alongside a patch of wild flowers in bloom served to underscore the fact that it takes a real ass to sully the forest. I was struck by the irony of me trying to cram the remains of an artificial Christmas tree into a garbage bag while surrounded by real trees.


Justin collecting garbage near some wild flowers (photo by John Barron)

We concentrated our efforts near the trailhead since that's where most of the garbage was dumped. After we cleaned up that area, we split into groups to clean up the major trails. John & Lori led me & Sue, Rob Bryce & Justin Heeley (aka "Pigpen"), and Brad Peden (Toyota shortbox, f/r Lockrights) up the Mossy trail.

This started out as a moderately difficult trail, which is why we were surprised to see that some dickhead went through the trouble to drive up here just to dump a dozen garbage bags of loaded diapers! After loading them into Rob's truck, we continued on until we reached a seriously off-camber uphill section. The camber was caused by a deep erosion running diagonally across the trail. You had to stay hard left and leaned way over before finally making a hard right to drop into the erosion ditch in order to avoid flopping over sideways. I got out and checked the section on foot while Justin offered some excellent pointers for wheel placement. John, ever the compassionate man, started honking his horn at me (they let me go in the lead) . Sue decided she didn't want any part of this so I asked her to take pictures since she was abandoning ship anyways. And so, with spotting from Justin, I carefully made my way through. Rob followed, with his rear end sliding sideways a bit. John blasted right through there like he was late for an episode of Melrose Place. As it turned out, this section was a useful prelude for the next day's obstacles which entailed a lot of off-camber driving.

From there it was on to "Cleavage Rock." As the name suggests, it's a deeply vee'd rock formation which forces you to carefully straddle the center section. The walls were the steepest I'd seen (in person) on any vee obstacle. With Sue positioned to capture this Kodak moment, I drove through without any problems except that I scraped my front shackle on a rock near the exit. Rob's Comanche slipped sideways during his attempt and I thought for sure he was going to take body damage. But as usual, he squeaked that longbox through without hitting anything except his tube bumper which was designed for taking that abuse. John was "spotted" right into the rock which I just scraped and Brad who had just caught up to us (he left town late) walked through like nothing happened.





Rob's Comanche climbing through Cleavage Rock. He finessed his way through without tagging his considerable rear overhang.





Here's John threading his Land Cruiser through Cleavage Rock

The rest of the route consisted of a fairly steep, twisting climb which afforded us a great view of the bay. Lori acted as the flora guide by speaking in terms one should expect from a biologist, "the trees are receptive." Huh? "Sexy." Huh? "You know, horny?" Oh!!

Once we reached the trail's summit, we stopped for lunch. We were a ten minute hike away from the abandoned fire lookout above us but were too tired (ie: fat ass lazy) to explore. Tales of Justin's FrankenCruiser [tm] were bandied about. Apparently, he has the most hideous Land Cruiser in all creation. Justin was also quite a wise guy and was continually cracking jokes. If it was anyone else I would have found it annoying but he was truly funny.

We collected some more garbage on the way down to the rendezvous point. John & Lori took off ahead of us in order to meet with the Times-Colonist reporter who had just arrived to photograph the clean-up. (Boy, this club is media-wise, too!) Vern and Mike had an impressive load of garbage piled into the beater trailer pulled behind Vern's CJ5. Some of the members reported that two vehicles loaded with garbage and headed into the area turned around at the trailhead when they saw some clubbers unloading the stuff they just removed from the trails.


Here we're assembled for a group photo for the Times-Colonist reporter.




We made a noticable dent in the litter but there's lots more remaining.

After a group photo, we drove en masse to the local recycler, Ken at Sooke Disposal & Recycling, who allowed us to dump the garbage for free. Most of the club then left to attend other commitments while some of us went back into the bush to do some 'wheeling. Rob, Sue and I were going to camp at Shields Lake so we headed up that way. At one point, I passed by John who, I thought, had stopped to pick up some pieces of a leaf spring which he found on the trail. A minute later one of the other guys radio'd that the parts belonged to his BJ42.

Apparently, he had only 1 complete spring left on his rear driver's side pack. Without missing a beat, he started the task of disassembling the pack so he could arrange the remaining spring portions in a staggered formation so they could support the one remaining complete leaf spring for the drive home. Justin, John & Wayne had performed just such a field fix recently on FrankenCruiser [tm] so they were confident it would work. In fact, Justin thought his fix worked so well that he drove around for 5 days on a spring pack which had not a single complete leaf. The more I heard about his exploits, the stronger my perverted desire to see his FrankenCruiser [tm] became (it was suffering with a bad case of cracked-block-itis so Justin was riding shotgun for a while).

John adds: Yeah, antifreeze really does work, Justin just didn't use any. Preventive maintenance?? What's that??
Lori, being an email widow, was disgusted when I sat in my lawn chair and pulled out my palmtop PC to read my Jeep and Offroad digests while John worked away in the background. I guess she just doesn't understand the lure of the internet. Umm, she's not gonna read this trip report, is she John?
John adds: Not if you send it by email...





Here's John performing a field fix on his shattered spring pack. His accomplishment deserves extra praise in light of the jokes and wise cracks we were making while he was working.

While we were waiting for John to complete his repair, Ian Archibald took Sue and I for a ride in his recently re-finished '78 FJ40. The body on his LC looked brand new, having been recently patched up by what must be an excellent body shop.

John adds: Fab Tech in Kelowna, coulda used more paint on the sandblasted frame as it's already starting to rust again.
The long day started taking it's toll on us so we decided not to camp out that night. Instead, after fixing the wounded BJ42, we headed for the nearest pub before driving back to the city. Lori tried to make us stop talking about trucks and computers for a while. It worked for a short while, especially when the conversation got into some rather lurid subjects (Lori & Sue's fault) but we eventually got back to trucks and computers and the FrankenCruiser [tm]. Rob played the gracious host and let Sue and I stay at his place again.

Day 2: (Sunday)

The next day, I made breakfast for Rob (the poor child just can't cook...and I'll not mention his cereal eating technique) and we headed out towards the Tugwell Lake area. This is a little farther west than where we were yesterday. The ferry ride to and from the island costs $74CDN (2 people, 1 vehicle) so Rob wanted to make sure I took care of my offroading jones before I headed back to the mainland. Ours were the only two vehicles going fourwheeling today. The Island Rock Crawlers all had other business to attend to.

The route was essentially the same set of trails which John had introduced Rob to a few weeks ago. The first interesting bit was at the trail head, which was essentially a narrow, rock-strewn creek bed heading up into the bush.





Near the beginning of the hard way up to Tugwell Lake

The rocks started getting pretty big and culminated in a tricky right-hand curve decorated with a sharp rock formation on the inside edge. To make things more interesting was the outside edge of the trail which sloped towards the right. The further you got through the turn, the more your vehicle would tip to the right and come up against the naturally-occuring can opener. Throw in some run off water and loose rocks and you have yourself some careful thinking ahead of you. And we spent no small amount of time figuring out the best approach for our two, very different, vehicles. I was able to squeeze my YJ through without getting too hairy on the angle. Because he had a significantly longer truck, Rob didn't have a choice in the matter and had to cut high and angular to avoid trashing his body panels. The off-camber section the day before had prepared us for steep lean angles so it wasn't as bladder-loosening as it could have been. It was close but we got the Comanche through with only a little bit of scratched paint at the rear. Rob continues to impress me with the things he can do with that innocent-looking Comanche.

Rob modestly adds: It helps when you have a good spotter like Larry, John or Pigpen.





Churning along a clearing in the trail


My YJ showing off its nether regions as it negotiates through a nasty section





Notice how Rob is doing his best to avoid the pointy rock to the left of his Comanche's box. Because of wheelbase differences, he had to take a more off-camber line than I did.





After getting through without a scratch (well, except for just one tiny scratch), Rob takes a well-deserved break under his Comanche

After that obstacle, the trail improved noticably and it was an easy drive to Tugwell Lake. At the lake we were greeted by the sight of beer cans, bottles, used shotgun shells, and other garbage both around and in the lake. It was the kind of thing that just makes you shake your head. Fortunately, it looks like the lake could be cleaned up by a small club spending only half a day of easy work. Once cleaned up, I think it would an excellent place to camp. The water was clear and shallow so it would probably get quite warm in the summer. There were also lots of rock formations surrounding the lake which would be excellent for sunning or just enjoying the view. We had lunch here and soaked up some of the sunshine which had been quite rare this month.

John gloats: For Vancouverites, maybe. We get more sun than rain, here in the "tropics of Canada."


Sue enjoying the warmth and scenery at Tugwell Lake

The route back down from Tugwell Lake was quite easy until we reached "Devil's Drop". To visualize it, simply imagine a downward-sloping bridge crossing a small stream with steep banks on both sides. The bank under our side of the bridge was the steepest, heading downwards at around 40 degrees before a vertical drop of about 2 feet at the bottom.

Now imagine that the bridge isn't there and you have to drive over that drop-off and hope that you don't slip sideways as your front wheels drop down that last two feet with the rest of your vehicle at a hairy downward, slightly off-camber angle. Oh, and on your way down that steep slope is a large rock on the left side which you have to drive over and the bank is composed not of slick rock but loose dirt and rocks.

John adds: Don't forget the nasty stump on the right, and that root that prevents you from taking a (safer??) further-right line.
My initial assessment of this particular obstacle was, "there's no way in hell that I'm going down there!" My secondary response was to walk into the bushes to have a squat; I decided that I didn't want to run the risk of soiling my pants while trying to get my YJ down that bank. Apparently, Rob felt the same way because also headed into the woods. Rob telling me that 50 trucks went through here on a poker run last year only convinced me that island four-wheelers were clinically insane. Heck, even Rob insisted that John winch him down this obstacle the first and only time he was here before. And while being winched down, he noticed that the slope indicator on his dash went past it's maximum reading (whatever that was). We put a few rocks at the bottom of the slope to minimize the potential damage from the drop-off and decided to winch Rob down nose first (he doesn't have a winch on his Comanche) and then I would winch myself down backwards.

Some time between walking back to his truck and bringing it near the edge of the bank, Rob must've struck a rich vein of testosterone because he calmly informed me that he'd give it a shot after all. So, with cameras readied and Rob with a death-grip on the steering wheel, he drove off the top and...did a remarkably controlled descent! Well, I wasn't about to let a flatlander prairie boy in a long box Comanche out-do me! NO sir! So I clambered up the bank towards my Jeep, all the while hoping I wouldn't chicken out. My Jeep has _always_ had crappy brakes and the fact that it also had an automatic tranny was not a comforting thought at this particular point in time. Basically, I was at the mercy of my mediocre brakes. At the crest of the bank, I locked-in the parking brake to take up any slack in the rear brake cylinders and inched/slid my way down the bank, all the while accompanied by loud, groaning protests from my brakes. It was scary going over the top but once I got past the point where I knew the Jeep wouldn't slip side ways and flip over, I recovered enough sense to think, "gee, I hope Sue's getting a good picture of this!" Priorities, right?

As much fun as it was, Rob made me feel nervous when he mentioned that the next obstacle, an unnamed drop-and-climb creek crossing, was even STEEPER. So we continued on toward our sorry fate. We switchbacked our way down the mountainside on a narrow, rocky road and enjoyed the intermittent views of the valley below us. And all too soon, we were There.





Following the shelf road which brings us to "Deep Space 9"

It was particularly dramatic because it was framed by a large, semi-destroyed log bridge sitting 15 feet above the stream which it crossed. And as always, Rob was perfectly truthful when he said it was steeper.

Rob adds: In over 1.5 years of 'wheeling together, this is the very first time I've heard Larry say in all sincerity, "are you nuts!?" to me, or ANY 4wheeler, when he saw this obstacle!
Fortunately, the slope was constant. My main concern was the steep climb on the other side of the stream. Rob said Wayne's dual xfer case Toyota and Rick's classic Bronco made it up last time so it was definitely "possible." Plus, since I was going first, I could always winch onto a portion of the old bridge if I had difficulty climbing out of the stream bed. Then, if Rob had problems, I could winch him out. The fear wasn't as bad this time since we had just done something similar to this. Still, that first little bit where I dropped over the edge was still very...exhilarating. After I slid down the bank, it became obvious that I had gotten off line a bit and needed to back up and steer towards the right. Amazingly, I was able to back up a little bit but couldn't steer at all because the leading edge of the tires were bearing most of the vehicle's weight and I didn't want to risk destroying my steering components or popping a tire off its rim by forcing it. The YJ slid forward and came to rest, nose first, on the pile of rocks which I was supposed to be beside, not on top of. We strapped my YJ to the Comanche (the first test of my new bumper!) and working together, we were able to back my truck far enough up the bank to get my Jeep back on line.





Trying to crawl, but ending up sliding, down DS9

With the rocks out of the way, I was able to get my Jeep into the stream and hopefully launch myself up the other bank. Well, "launch" wasn't a very accurate term. My rear bumper got hung-up on a rock and I didn't have enough traction. So we ended up wrapping the strap around a portion of the old log bridge and winched up towards it. The log started shaking quite a bit but the re-inforcing logs prevented it from toppling onto my Jeep (otherwise you wouldn't be reading this trip report!).





Pulling myself out of DS9 under the watchful (mocking?) gaze of Rob Bryce
Once I was back on level ground, Rob started to reel in the cable but I told him to leave it since we'll probably need it for his Comanche. Heh heh. Well, what can I say...Rob went over the bank, nailed the line perfectly and without losing any momentum, he gracefully churned his way up the other bank. I was _very_ impressed.





Rob humbles me by showing me the right line for climbing out of DS9

The only damage he suffered was a bent rear bumper tube. But since everything on his truck was working class rather than pavement queen, he just bashed it back into shape (kinda) with the flat side of his maul.

John adds: Not again!!! :-) That damned bumper is always in the way. Got both ends of it on Cleavage, and now again...!?
I guess being from the prairies, he tries extra hard to prove that flatlanders know how to drive in the mountains, too. In any event, I believe he'll be unstoppable if he ever gets a short wheelbase vehicle...or bob-tails his Comanche.
John adds: Keep trying, Larry. Peer pressure does work eventually...ask Wayne.
Larry adds: John has since told me this obstacle is un-named. Given its dimensions and appearance, I think "Deep Space 9" would be appropriate: a deep 9 feet.
With this last obstacle conquered, we quaffed some cold Pepsis and headed back to civilization. Once again, Rob showed us a great time, as did our new fourwheeling companions, John Barron, Lori and all the other Island Rock Crawlers.

End notes:

  • For the clean-up, Rob brought along some grain sacks. These are similar to onion sacks 'cept that they're densely woven and quite large. The farmers get them for free when purchasing seed in the spring so if you ever get a chance, grab some. They're extremely strong and perfect for hanging off the back of your rig for hauling garbage whether you're doing a clean-up or just camping.
  • On the island, it seems that you've either got an 8274 Warn or you don't have a winch at all. Around Vancouver, most winches are the planetary gear type but the 8274 seems to rule on Vancouver Island.
  • I was very impressed at what a dozen people can do when they set their minds to it. The clean-up operation, although lasting around 6 hours, made a significant improvement to the trails. Even if you don't belong to a club, I think anyone could organize enough people to do something similar. Inviting the press was a great idea and I hope the story makes it to the paper.
    John adds:
    • I think it added up to 7 heaping pickup loads, and there is a lot more still out there but mainly composed of old wrecked cars and a few appliances. Most of it is dumped by locals who can't be bothered to pay a few bucks to unload it at the correct facility.
    • (The clean-up results were) so noticeable that when the pricks who were heading up the trail after us dropped their beer cans out the window we knew exactly who they belonged to. If you have got to drink off-road, which is illegal as it is on the highway I might add, hold on to your damned cans. Only assholes litter a beautiful area.
  • These island fourwheelers are pretty hardcore. They're having a poker run in June so I'd strongly suggest going if you're anywhere near southwestern BC and would like to do some tough trails.


Remember, NO DUMPING!

...lars

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