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Moab 2005

by Shayne MacGuire

We pulled out of Abbotsford at 0650 Saturday morning in the Cherokee rigged for street running and pulling a trailer laden with spare parts and camping gear. After meeting Dave, Shawn, and Curtis at the Campbell Store we fuelled up and headed for the border. After a moderate wait, the mystery of the flat spare, and a quick search of the trailer by the latch-challenged US Customs Officer, we were on our way to Moab, Utah, by 0800.

My Cherokee really wasn't up to pulling the trailer and was only comfortable at an indicated 110 kph (Dave's GPS showed an actual 62 MPH). We were pushing hard and a small issue with my electric cooling fan just south of Seattle stopped us for a bit when the truck overheated on a moderate climb. Fuel consumption was so high I had to stop every 300 km or so and we didn't pull into Layton, Utah until 0200 Sunday.

Because we were so slow pulling the trailer, we told the others to go ahead to Moab that morning so that we could travel at our own pace. We fuelled up in Layton and not 2 km from the station the truck stumbled and quit. Wouldn't you know it! What a great time to send the others ahead, and by that time they were already out of CB range!

Dressed in sandals and a light jacket, I walked back to the gas station in the blowing, wet snow to get some methyl hydrate. It took some time and bleeding of the fuel rail but we ultimately got all the water out and got underway, finally rolling into Moab at 1500. The others had already set up at the Pack Creek Campground but we had to set up camp and rig the XJ for the trail.

Curtis' YJ sits sports an LT1 from a '95 Camaro and rides on 35's bolted to Wagoneer D44's welded front and spooled rear. He has a new internal cage, you know, just in case. His motto is "everyone needs more power" and man does he know how to use it!

Shawn has all new running gear under his '88 XJ with a D44 loaded with a Detroit, alloy axles, and WJ discs. The locked D30 up front now uses Yukon alloy inners with Superior outers and a chromoly tie rod. Power is from a '98 4 litre HO and he rides on 285/75-16's.

Dave's '92 XJ is featured in 4Wheel Drive & Sport Utility Magazine's 3rd Annual Moab Survival Guide's special on Killer Kane. He also runs alloy axles and Detroits in his D44 and D30, has an external/internal cage, OBA, chromoly steering, beefed track bar with crossmember, built in stowage where the rear seat used to be, and 35 inch MT/R's. I believe the engine is a '99 HO.

My '90 XJ runs Lock-Rights in the D30 front and 8.25 corporate rear on 33 inch MT/R's. It had shiny black paint. Dave still thinks it is too pretty.

Day 1. Pritchett Canyon


Waiting for Al, Ward and Rob.
We decided the first trail would need an early start due to the sheer number of 4x4's in Moab for the Easter Jeep Safari. Today's run would include Al from Canada4x4 Magazine in a serious YJ on 46x19.5 inch Claws, Ward in an equally serious IFS YJ on the same tires, a couple of EB's from Cage Offroad, Luke 'Rockwalker' in his Klune equipped EB, and Rob Brooks and Rob Bryce in a modified Toyota from Vancouver Island. As seems typical these days I'm in the baby truck of the group. Since Ward's IFS YJ sporting Gamma Goat axles wasn't locked up front we decided Moab Rim would be a good, moderate trail but as we waited for them to arrive at the trailhead, massive group after massive group passed and us we pondered taking an alternate trail. Kane Creek Canyon seemed the best choice but after Al, Ward, and Bryce finally arrived Pritchett became the trail of choice for some reason.

The Pritchett Canyon Trail requires all visitors to sign in and pay a nominal $2 fee in order to enter. Almost immediately a serious drop posted with a sign stating that if your rig or your constitution are not up to making it back up then stop and turn around. Maybe we should have. This ledge has deteriorated since the last time and someone mentioned a recent roll here but after careful spotting we all made it down without incident. We slowly progressed through the canyon and first obstacles but Ward's YJ was having difficulties. By the time we hit Rocker Knocker Shawn had lost a sidewall on one of his BFG's and we swapped it out while waiting for a group negotiating the obstacle. They were having some difficulty and Dave stepped up to spot them through in a, uh, more timely manner. It was difficult for him to get them to trust him but once they realized he knew the line (it did seem unorthodox and wrong) they were able to crabwalk to the severely off-camber trench then walk right up!


Curtis on an obstacle in Pritchett Canyon.

Shawn entering Rocker Knocker.

Me getting up on Rocker Knocker as Shawn climbs the next step.

One guy in an XJ who seemed far too concerned about his fender flares kept trying to hold back his two-ton rig from meeting rock with his left hand. He must have really liked those flares! Ultimately he did listen, pulled his arm inside and walked right up. He later thanked Dave for his spotting. At this point two of the EB's turned back as one was having difficulty with his fuel pump.

Now that we had caught the group in front of us the going was very slow. Shaylee met another youngster and played in the periphery then she and Julee went exploring in the canyon with our dog, Missee.

Once we made it to Rock Pile the 'easy' line was pretty busy so Dave and Curtis played on the cliff that is the hard line. It's a wheelbase thing and there was no chance but Curtis did manage to put his YJ on its side, HARD. So much for his new soft top! Minutes later a Suzuki rolled on Yellow Hill just ahead of us. Things were definitely getting interesting. Dave climbed his truck up on top of the obstacle and used his winch to right Curtis' YJ. Curtis became Moab's official mosquito control unit for the next half hour as he fogged the upper canyon cleaning engine oil out of his cylinders. At this point Ward hung back trying to resolve some issues and the group of trucks behind us moved up and separated our group. Dave, Curtis, Luke, Shawn, and myself struggled to the top and waited for Al and Ward to make their way up.


Into the trench. At this point it just feels WRONG.

Diggin' in then bumping up.

Curis put his Jeep on its side at the Rock Pile. His only regret: not taking his top off, first.

We entertained ourselves watching the other groups that couldn't seem to get the proper line. Or maybe they just wanted to try the impossible route. One V8 powered FJ40 must have spent 30 minutes on the cliff below at 6000 RPM until brute force finally won the day. A few rigs did make it up without breakage but Ward was not so lucky. He broke his rear output yoke and after numerous attempts at repair Al ultimately had to pull him up the last few obstacles, Yellow Hill was quite dramatic as those big 46's dug two trenches, but Ward managed the final 30 km to Moab in front wheel drive.

I tend to be a bit slow and while Shawn stayed back with me the others moved ahead quite quickly trying to beat the approaching cold and darkness. I ran into one of the groups that had passed us while we waited for Al and Ward on Yellow Hill. They had broken down on the side of the secondary road. I don't know what the rigs are called but they run a 350 TB engine on an S10 chassis with leafs up front and a fibreglass and plastic body. One had broken its engine mounts and the Jeep YJ towing it had also quit. Since they had children with them I offered help and ultimately waited until the problem was resolved. Not sure if it was a lack of fuel or a plugged filter but they took my spare fuel and were on their way.

Day 2. The Pickle

Maybe a better title would be 'Looking for the Pickle'. With sketchy directions at best, we drove about the desert north of Moab trying various side roads and washes to no avail. We were joined by a very modified long wheelbase Samurai from Utah powered by a 4.3 in our search (I don't remember his name but the dog was named Pookie). There were no real obstacles but it was pleasant and scenic if nothing else.


Dave in a "pool" while searching for The Pickle.

Dave freaking me out by going over the edge of the canyon!

The scenery at Moab was gorgeous.

Night 2. Potato Salad Hill

All lights blazing, we checked out Potato Salad Hill. We drove down to the staging area at the bottom and then had a look around. It looks worse than before which seems impossible since it is rock. A pretty well modified XJ took a run and with serious air time and bouncing made it to the top. Dave made his run and while he did get some air time he showed far more finesse and grace than the other rig. The other XJ made a second successful run and so did Dave. There was no way Shawn or I were going to tempt fate. I had seen far better rigs fall off of this and didn't want to be one of them. My successful run in 2003 involved some serious and abrupt lateral movement and lack of control so one successful run was going to have to suffice until I have a full cage and/or better running gear.

Day 3. Rusty Nail

Now this is a great trail. Today we were joined by Kevin and his co-pilot, both from Idaho, in a buggy-leafed Jeep Commando with a 401 cid AMC mill. The weather was wet and cold but sort of cooperated. The first obstacle was relatively imposing but with skilled spotting all went well even as the rains began to make the going difficult. There was a tabletop rock at waist height right where your right quarter needed to be so superficial damage is very possible. The second obstacle was just as difficult and while we all made it up Curtis ripped the sidewall out of one of his BFG's. Since Curtis has a different bolt pattern than the rest of us and doesn't pack a spare, some creative work was required. The rains stopped as Dave and Curtis 'sewed' the sidewall together using haywire, a punch, and a cylinder supplied by Kevin. They then installed a tube, aired up and we moved on, on to the abyss.


Me on the Rusty Nail.

Kevin taking a slightly different line in his trés cool Commando.

Shawn on the Rusty Nail.

Curtis on the 2nd obstacle at Rusty Nail. This is where he killed his sidewall.

Check out the awesome repair job!

Dropping down a few steps to a canyon ledge the next obstacle awaited. It was a rock face the size of a Cherokee laying at a very steep angle and you had to drive down it on a point jutting out over the canyon then drive down another drop with only a boulder between your truck and the 50 meter drop to your left. This was followed quickly by an off camber section right at the edge (sanity required total focus on the spotter and not on the shear drop to the left) and another drop, this one off-camber into a small bowl at the end of the canyon. As impressive as the first drops and first off camber section are the last drop was the sneaky one. Lining up was difficult and the rear tires would simply slide sideways to the left placing the truck in a very precarious position. I pulled my shorts out of my butt after this little experience. We moved on to a stepped ledge on a large rock slope Dave called the Triple Whammy. Dave got some serious airtime, as did Curtis. Shawn unfortunately wasn't so lucky. As his pinion u-joint broke it took out his yoke. Fortunately Curtis had a spare and we were underway once again. During the trail repairs the weather seemed to improve somewhat from the cold, windy rain that dominated this trip. At most obstacles or breakdowns Shaylee was able to explore the desert and slickrock with either Julee or Missee.


Curtis at the first drop.

And now the second drop.

Shawn from the front. Note the rock we are dropping off of and its proximity, or rather lack of, to the edge! It is actually an overhang.

My turn.

Between the drop and offcamber sections.

Me on the offcamber section. It's quite the drop to the canyon floor just meters to the side. You have to be there to fully appreciate this predicament!

Lunch break.

The trail joins the Golden Spike and Gold Bar Rim trails at the Golden Crack so Curtis made a beeline to the Crack since he broke here the last time we tackled

Here are some other 4x4s attempting the Golden Crack. Curtis' line was much harder, and behind where I stood to take this photo.
the trail. The trucks coming the traditional way take a relatively tame line but Curtis attempted to cross far up the Crack...going the wrong way. The front of his YJ dropped in and he was climbing up the other side when the left rear lifted and started going over. Just as Shawn grabbed his rear bumper Curtis applied copious throttle and pulled the truck out of the roll and through the Crack. Two broken YJ's were being repaired after attempting the Crack, one with a broken axle, and a large group was moving through it from Golden Spike. Curtis made his way back through the Crack in a more traditional manner and we moved on to Double Whammy.

Dave beat the obstacle in 2003 and his rig is far better prepared now so the result was going to be obvious. Double Whammy had other plans. After two attempts there was a loud explosion under the truck as fluid and parts flew in every direction. Dave had had catastrophic failure of his transfer case. The entire rear housing had blown apart as the rear output shaft broke.


On the way to Double Whammy.

Curtis on Double Whammy.

Dave, prior to the big bang.

What's wrong with this picture?

Ouch.

While Dave's truck was being made able to travel Curtis moved up to Double Whammy. On his second attempt Curtis too broke. The obstacle claimed his pinion yoke and he swapped parts with Dave's disabled rig. Because Shawn was having problems with a rear spring mount he decided not to attempt the obstacle this year. He had successfully run it in 2003. Kevin had done the obstacle the previous day but gave it another shot today. All the waiting probably prompted him to make the attempt and with relative ease he negotiated it as we were getting ready to tow. The shortest route out was Gold Bar Rim so with Shawn leading to find the easiest line for me to tow Dave, and Curtis following in case we needed a tug backwards, we made our way back to the highway. This wasn't as simple as it sounds because there were still some pretty serious obstacles in our way and we had more breakage. About half way back Curtis broke his track bar. Since I was the only one wearing shorts and sandals I was nominated to do the welding and enjoy weld splatter on my bare limbs. Curtis brought the part down to us as we set up two of the truck's batteries to weld and, with me sporting two pairs of sunglasses, we had him back underway in short order. With a couple of pulls with the winch I was able to drag Dave back to camp in a relative short period of time. Curtis had brought a spare 231 but it had the older 21 spline count so the entire next day was used to make one 23 spline case out of two.

Day 4. Arches National Park

Dave and Shawn worked most of the day building a transfer case in the truck as removal was near impossible and Curtis put some miles on searching for a competent welder to repair his broken antiwrap. Without a torch or proper rod cast was outside of my abilities.

I took this opportunity to have a family day. Julee, Shaylee, and I decided to check out the arches in the National Park just South of Moab. We spent the better part of the day hiking to the various arches and sites in the park. The orange slickrock with its domes and sharp edges were in direct contrast to the snow covered La Sal mountain range in the background. The weather was relatively good until late in the day but our general opinion was that the views, terrain, and vistas on the 4 wheel drive trails are far superior to anything within the National Park. Save your $10 and just go wheelin'!

Night 4. Behind The Rocks

Dave briefly tested out his newly built t-case this evening so we decided to give it a real test on a night run. We considered Hell's Revenge but since it was probably more dangerous at night and we hadn't been on it since 2002 we opted to do Behind the Rocks. Curtis and Dave had done this trail last year but both Shawn and I have never attempted it. This was really cool in the moonlight. The weather was moderate and the skies relatively clear so Dave prompted us to run without headlamps or rock lights. I tried for a while but it got a little disconcerting on some of the drops and climbs. And there are some very serious drops and climbs on this trail!

One of the coolest obstacles is the drop called High Dive which transitions into a steep climb known as Up Chuck. The drop has a bypass and watching the rigs negotiate it made me more than lightly consider it. Actually my first response upon seeing the drop was "no flippin' way!!" Since everyone else did it I felt obligated to take my life in my own hands and make the descent. Ultimately our lives (mine and a sleeping Shaylee's) were in Dave's capable hands as he spotted me down and it felt far better than it looked. The climb up Up Chuck looked simple enough. It is pretty obvious where your tires NEED to go so line up, get the tires on and give 'er some onion. I wound up following Curtis' less than elegant approach however. Bounce, go left laterally one metre, lift both right tires off of the ground and lurch and bump your way to the top with the engine howling in protest. Smooth Shayne. Smooth.

Hummer Hill is probably one of the steepest climbs I have seen or have been expected to climb. This thing is a good 10 metres of darn near straight up with a little ledge near the top to keep you on your toes. Before his attempt Curtis decided to change out a noisy axle joint. While he was doing this Julee and I climbed to the top of the Hill and the view in the moonlight was incredible! After climbing it I was having difficulty believing a vehicle could climb it but the tire tracks indicated otherwise. Once Curtis' preventive maintenance was complete, Dave gave it a go. His front tires kept going up once he hit the top and it was rather unnerving. The raw roaring power of the LT1 carried Curtis to the top on his second attempt and then Shawn was up on deck. Shawn's rear tires made it 2 meters from the base before all four scratched for traction. He needed more of a run, which can be very difficult when approaching a near cliff face. After two attempts he decided to take the bypass and I eagerly followed. Remember, I'm still running 260 front u-joints and a 8.25 rear. Pretty weak stuff when compared to alloy and/or D44's. Well, that's my excuse anyway.

Two really steep drops to a flat area which leads to a very off camber drop ultimately take you to the infamous White Knuckle Hill. No film, photograph, description, or explanation can prepare you for this! A multitude of drops, steps, jutting edges, and rocks leads to a drop as close to vertical you can get. Not only vertical but with bits sticking out here and there with no obvious line and about 2 metres high. Dropping off is one thing but the approach quite another. We stared at it for a good 30 minutes before Dave committed himself to the task of getting down. Being nowhere near the spotter he is it was difficult for us to line him up but once he was he dropped off with little fanfare.

Curtis' turn. These brothers have more brass than anyone I know and Curtis has a shorter wheelbase than Dave's XJ! There were other variables that would have made me turn back if I were in his shoes but he picked his line and simply drove down and off of one of the most ugly obstacles I have ever seen! Although both had made it look easy, almost pretty, I wasn't about to make the attempt and Shawn and I turned back looking for an alternative route which turned out to be more difficult than you can imagine in the dark desert night. After a few false leads we wound up going back up the numerous obstacles backwards and met up with Dave and Curtis on the secondary road.

Day 5: Boulder Alley

I had learned a lesson in 2002 when Dave had to leave his XJ behind due to damage to his rig on the last day: wheeling on the final day can have serious consequences. The exploding t-case on Double Whammy convinced me that joining the group for Friday's run up to Boulder Alley would be folly. This was moderately confirmed when I found one of the straps on my front u-joint damaged when removing it for the trip home.

Dave writes:

Boulder Alley is a little known trail in Moab shown to us by Dan Starc in 2004. It is not overly difficult, but has some nice obstacles. As it was our last day and I felt left out because Curtis had rolled on Pritchett and I didn't even touch my cage all week, I thought I would take some interesting lines. You can ask Curtis and Shawn how close I came to flopping, but never did make it. Curtis ripped another sidewall but this time it was a huge chunk that came off. No sewing this time!! We had to break down his tire and my spare then swap the rims. From there we rolled through this trail with little incident and enjoyed the scenery.

And home again.

The weather was miserable Friday and turned to heavy snow by late evening but by then we had decided to break camp and head back to BC. Since I was so slow we split up and while the three others headed on home, we stayed in Salt Lake City to check out the Museum of Ancient Life. Excellent, and right on the side of the freeway at Thanksgiving Park.

The final leg of the trip was the most trying. We left Layton, Utah, by about 0830 Sunday but just south of Pendleton, Idaho, my Jeep developed a death wobble, yes, THAT death wobble. This limited our speed to an indicated 80 kph, which is closer to 70 kph. This on a highway posted at 75 MPH! It can be unnerving watching rigs approach from the rear at ludicrous speed! I don't know if it was the slower speed and the resultant poor air movement under the truck or something wrong with the exhaust system but the carpet became incredibly hot and the smell was, at times, nauseating. Continuous rain and snow and fog in all the passes didn't help but were expected. I noticed the temperature creeping up even with the auxiliary fan running so I pulled over in the Snoqualmie Pass only to hear the death rattle of the water pump. I pushed on watching the needle for any change. By the time we hit the crossing it was a full on racket and the Customs Officer asked me to turn the truck off so he could hear me. The engine restart indicated a poor battery but the dim headlamps by the time we reached home told me the alternator was done. That was 5 am.

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