[cdlaser]

I'm looking at a 2.5 - 3" suspension lift and am considering adding a 1" body lift via the famous hockey puck.

I've heard the cheap ones can shatter in the cold. What other hints of advice can anyone out there pass on. Via experience. Other then longer bolts, what other changes will i need to make especially after the suspension lift goes in.

Oh ya, it's for a YJ



[This message has been edited by cdlaser (edited November 12, 2001).]

 

[crazyguy]

advise? dont be an idiot. sorry it's so brutal, I cant help myself.

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the pages of my life, http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/edges

 

[camoburban]

spend the money buy a proper lift, Mountain Off-road sells the 1" spacers.

 

[Greg W]

I thought hockey pucks became a problem only when you start to stack them. I mean, even if all of them on one side just discinegrated, the body drops only by one inch, not enough I wouldn't think to cause the jeep to throw itself on its side suddenly?
I know it would be an instant fail on a safety inspection though.

What I've always wondered about was why the 1" body lift is always the most expensive body lift of them all? I would expect a 2" or 3" to be more expensive?

 

[jo-jo]

Originally posted by crazyguy:
advise? dont be an idiot. sorry it's so brutal, I cant help myself.

Hmm...I guess Lars is an idiot... =

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jo-jo
http://island4x4.com

 

[jo-jo]

Originally posted by Greg W:
I thought hockey pucks became a problem only when you start to stack them. I mean, even if all of them on one side just discinegrated, the body drops only by one inch, not enough I wouldn't think to cause the jeep to throw itself on its side suddenly?
I know it would be an instant fail on a safety inspection though.

What I've always wondered about was why the 1" body lift is always the most expensive body lift of them all? I would expect a 2" or 3" to be more expensive?

I don't see the problem with the one puck method (I've never seen a good argument against it)...yet sure to be flamed for saying it.

I'm assuming the 1" is more expensive if it's an aluminum puck versus the 2-3" poly or whatever those are made out of. They also have to be machined rather than a poured mold (?).




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jo-jo
http://island4x4.com

 

[Dan]

It seems everyones an expert on this subject. People scream and yell every time this subject comes up.
They say they shatter and disintegrate over time and cause all kinds of problems like the body falls off.

Why would that happen???? If you all havent noticed, theres a bolt going through it, its the bolt that holds the body to the frame, and if the hockey puck should break up the body will still be attached to the frame by the bolt.

I think the problem stems from the cheap bastards who dont buy new bolts and use the originals and they're only hanging by a couple threads. As long as you put new longer bolts in with new lock nuts why the heck would there be a problem?

Try an early Ford pickup, in fact right through the 70's the Ford front (at the firewall) cab mounts were thin metal and they crushed and tore after a little off-road use. The metal would tear and then the bolt could rip right through it, now thats dangerous. One hockey puck isnt dangerous.

Watch these guys, next they'll tell you lift blocks fall out too.

Dan.

 

[Chris S]

A 1 inch body lift should be around $100.00
If it way more then you are looking at one designed to replace all the body mounts for guys who need new mounts anyway, not the ones that stack with the stock mounts.

The danger of pucks cracking is that over time all of them can fatigue and crack, then when you get in an accident they all fail. The body may not actually drop much but the bolts all get a much twisted, placing a shear force on them and breaking them all off. The result is that your frame stops and your body goes flying.
Is this very likely or is it a one-in-a-million fluke? I don't know.

I personally used poly boat rollers to make a 1/2" body lift, but that is a material which is designed to support weight, be used on the road, and is similar to products available for sale. I've since been told that poly can compress and loosen the bolts, but I haven't had any problems. I also crawl under my Jeep and check everything once a month, so problems will be detect3ed early.

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Chris S.
2002 KJ - staying stock (almost)
2000 TJ - 2" suspension lift, 1/2" body lift, assorted skids, hooks, rock rails, rock lights, 33" BFG MTs, custom bumper, Warn 8274
Mud Puppy's Jeep site

 

[jo-jo]

Originally posted by Chris S:
The danger of pucks cracking is that over time all of them can fatigue and crack, then when you get in an accident they all fail. The body may not actually drop much but the bolts all get a much twisted, placing a shear force on them and breaking them all off. The result is that your frame stops and your body goes flying.
Is this very likely or is it a one-in-a-million fluke? I don't know.
[/B]

Ok..under that premiss, I guess it could be said that a 3" manufactured lift would dangerous too. Eventually the increased leverage can create cracks in the body's sheet metal allowing the body to rip away from it's mounting more easily.

Thoughts?

BTW, here is a 1" lift we put in RyJ's rig:

http://island4x4.com/4x4tech/body/morebodylift/

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jo-jo
http://island4x4.com

[This message has been edited by jo-jo (edited November 12, 2001).]

 

[Chris S]

Originally posted by jo-jo:
Ok..under that premiss, I guess it could be said that a 3" manufactured lift would dangerous too. Eventually the increased leverage can create cracks in the body's sheet metal allowing the body to rip away from it's mounting more easily.

Thoughts?

yep, I've seen the cracks on a buddy's jeep, and I've heard of it happening lots of times.
In my opinion a 1" body lift (professional) is OK, 2" will eventually lead to cracks (but not for years and years), and a 3" body lift will create cracks sooner rather than later. The metal on Jeeps just isn't strong enough to take the stress.

Plus the extra height of a 3" body lift puts a huge amount of shear force on the bolts.



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Chris S.
2002 KJ - staying stock (almost)
2000 TJ - 2" suspension lift, 1/2" body lift, assorted skids, hooks, rock rails, rock lights, 33" BFG MTs, custom bumper, Warn 8274
Mud Puppy's Jeep site

 

[Dan]

Cut the frame mounts off and weld them a couple inches higer? We did it for lowrider truck, cut the mounts and rewelded them three inches lower and then cut out the floor and rewelded it in three inches higher to clear the frame. And then you cut the seat mounts down so you're head isnt on the roof.

Glad I dont play with those things anymore, it sucks having to use a forklift to get under it to do an oilchange.

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Dan
91 Cherokee, 3" body lift, 2" front lift blocks, Warn XD900i winch, custom narrowed rear seat.

 

[Greg W]

Ok..under that premiss, I guess it could be said that a 3" manufactured lift would dangerous too. Eventually the increased leverage can create cracks in the body's sheet metal allowing the body to rip away from it's mounting more easily.

You've got that right. In fact, I'll give you a money back gurantee

that a 3" body lift (at least on a jeep) will tear body mounts off if you wheel it. Maybe not immediately, but it will happen.
That is why I don't really think a 1" hockey puck lift is any more dangerous than a 3" body lift. You gotta inspect both every now and then. I've just finished replacing about half the body mounts on the CJ5. It had a 3" body lift when I bought it.

 

[creeper]

the way i see it, if you want to put one in with hockey pucks go ahead. no one can stop you. but remember, they're hockey pucks, they were designed for one purpose only, thats it. we have had a couple come in the shop for VI's and we failed them. body lifts aren't to expensive. but if you don't put a huge body lift in, then you probably won't get pulled over for a VI. i would never put one in or in one of my customers vehicals, but hey that just me and my opinion. good luck in what ever you choose.

steve
westcoast rockhuggers offroad club

 

[Greg W]

Hey, CDlaser, another thing that just popped into my head. If you want the 1" extra clearance, consider swapping in TJ flares. If forces you to cut back your fenders. You don't have to worry about the side effects of a body lift.
I am not a big fan of bodylifts, but I think they do serve their function when you want just that extra bit.
Here's the article about the TJ flares: http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2001/tjflares/

You want more clearance for your tires, right? The cost would probably not be much higher than a body lift. AND you get the added benefit of wider flares which is good for bigger tires and keeping the cops off your ass

 

[RYJAY]

I'M FAMOUS!

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1992 YJ with 33's

 

[Dan]

Originally posted by creeper:
but remember, they're hockey pucks, they were designed for one purpose only, thats it.
steve
westcoast rockhuggers offroad club

Yeah, they were designed to hit a wall at 90 miles an hour while frozen. I think they're strong enough to be a body puck.



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Dan
91 Cherokee, 3" body lift, 2" front lift blocks, Warn XD900i winch, custom narrowed rear seat.

 

[creeper]

Originally posted by Dan:
Yeah, they were designed to hit a wall at 90 miles an hour while frozen. I think they're strong enough to be a body puck.

like i said if you want to put one in go ahead. i don't care. i just won't do it.
good luck and i hope it works out for you cdlaser.

steve
westcoast rockhuggers offroad club