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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys. how goes. finally got all the parts on order, "new" tranny here, pulled out all the shafts and u-joints so far, and t-case and getting ready to pull the tranny :). More pics to follow. :)


Here is the truck before.


T-Case out, ready to be mated to the "new" AOD pictured. Picked up the aod for 450 bux, 4mos warranty from wasney's out of a '88 f250 :). I figure that will buy me the time to gather the parts, books, and find the time to attempt my first automatic transmission rebuild on the one coming out hehe.


So... I've run into my first "problem"



While removing the drive-shafts, i noticed that the double cardigan ujoints were BAD. after a bit of mucking around, i go them all seperated to find the replaceable piece of the yoke was fried, the grease and dust ring had been taken out. 100 bux, part replaced :). But then i also found the dust/grit ring in the above pictures has been damaged and come loose. The actual cup for the joint is fine, its just the dust ring that has popped off. I checked against the other side and part i see that the dust cap on the other side is held in place by a punched dimple. Does anyone know, will i have to replace the whole yoke, and get it welded to my drive shaft? Or should i be able to either straighten out, or get a new ring made and tacked onto the yoke? Any suggestions are appreciated.

I have a new years brunch to goto now, when i get home will be draining the old tranny, disconnecting all cooler lines, flushing them, and mounting the new 12k GVW external tranny cooler i picked up. Anyone up for a few hrs of heavy lifting in the next day or 2? I have everything ready to go to drop the tranny, but not feelin trying to muscle it out myself (bruised ribs). There is beer and a few bux in it for anyone willing to spend an afternoon in white rock in a heated garage :) Cheers. More pics and posts to come as i continue. 4" Rough country lift should be here middle next week :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well here's the culprit that did all the damage here. Sure glad it made it home from abby to white rock when i bought it lol. of course there was a loose tranny mount, and a bad tranny in it at the time, was kinda hard during the initial test drives to figure out EXACTLY what was wrong til i started pulling things apart *YAY* all in all, still looking good on the $750 "beater".



ALL u-joints on the front and rear shafts are being replaced with precision greasable heavy duty parts :)
 

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Hey Yeti...could you do me a HUGE favor please?

Measure the AOD trans from the block/bell housing surface to the tcase surface mounting area.

Front drive shaft weld to weld
rear drive shaft weld to weld

PLEASE...these might be the key measurements and turn out to be the parts I need to locate for my ZF conversion. I may already have a working shaft for the front...but I am near certain I need a rear.

Oh ya if you need a replacement rear shaft cause that DC is all fubar...I know a place that might have a couple.

I am looking into one myself seeing as it's probably the one I need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey riot. Here are the measurements.


Front shaft weld to weld. 17"
Rear shaft weld to weld. 24"
Aod approx 20 1/4"
Aod output adapter approx 6 3/8"

Did you need the measurements of min and max shafts with the inline slip joints?

My dc is ok. It's JUST the dust ring that's a bit mucked. Do you think that is something I could get fixed?

Thx hope this helps
 

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Hey riot. Here are the measurements.


Front shaft weld to weld. 17"
Rear shaft weld to weld. 24"
Aod approx 20 1/4"
Aod output adapter approx 6 3/8"

Did you need the measurements of min and max shafts with the inline slip joints?

My dc is ok. It's JUST the dust ring that's a bit mucked. Do you think that is something I could get fixed?

Thx hope this helps
Are you certain the front and rear shaft measurments are correct they seem backwards to me. The front should be the long one rear the short....least with mine it is.

Ok so I am clear AOD from belhousing/block face to the actual Tcase adapter face where TCASE bolts on would be 26 5/8 correct? Is this the trans in the Bronco or the one on the floor? Are they actually the same length overall?

Ok Rear shaft compressed from flange to flange then my shaft has a rubber boot covering the weld at the male splined end. My overall rear shaft length is 31 3/4" if I press down on the shaft while the CV end is on the floor, and the slip spline is compressed.

This is one of the last parts I need to get sorted out to install my ZF in my truck

If you can measure min and max of the shafts that would be great too BTW....

What rear diff do you have 8.8 or9"
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you certain the front and rear shaft measurments are correct they seem backwards to me. The front should be the long one rear the short....least with mine it is.

Ok so I am clear AOD from belhousing/block face to the actual Tcase adapter face where TCASE bolts on would be 26 5/8 correct? Is this the trans in the Bronco or the one on the floor? Are they actually the same length overall?

Ok Rear shaft compressed from flange to flange then my shaft has a rubber boot covering the weld at the male splined end. My overall rear shaft length is 31 3/4" if I press down on the shaft while the CV end is on the floor, and the slip spline is compressed.

This is one of the last parts I need to get sorted out to install my ZF in my truck

If you can measure min and max of the shafts that would be great too BTW....

What rear diff do you have 8.8 or9"
AOD Length, correct, +/- 1/8".

I'll re-measure full lengths for you. to confirm, i have no u-joints, or DC on the shaft right now, you want those measurements fully compressed and maxed out ujoint flange to ujoint flange on front, and ujoint flange to pin & cup for DC on rear? I'll be going back downstairs shortly, to continue on the TC draining, and start prepping to pull the old one. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well the fun continues. I got the pan dropped, tranny fluid drained, pan put back up for removal, tranny lines disconnected and drained out. here are a few pics, then back to drain/unbolt TC, then remove any linkage or wires remaining, and get ready to pull :) here are some pics for you enjoyment.


mmmmmm clutch pack mmmmmm lol. at least there isn't any metal filings etc in there, that gives me hope it wont be too expensive of a rebuild :)


that is some DARK atf...


Well externally the valve body and filters dont look too bad... still hope for a rebuild hehe.


Trans cooler lines disconnected after blowing all fluid back and out of the cooler and return lines with air on the high side.


*yay* a coolant leak. will have to keep an eye on that, and find it later...


LOL got bored last night when i was missing the right socket and stores were already closed.... i have a 1/2 clean garage/workshop now, and the beginnings of a tool wall :).

Well back to it, more pictures to follow. Anyone sees anything i'm missing in the pics, please feel free to add to it :)
 

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Well the fun continues. I got the pan dropped, tranny fluid drained, pan put back up for removal, tranny lines disconnected and drained out. here are a few pics, then back to drain/unbolt TC, then remove any linkage or wires remaining, and get ready to pull :) here are some pics for you enjoyment.


mmmmmm clutch pack mmmmmm lol. at least there isn't any metal filings etc in there, that gives me hope it wont be too expensive of a rebuild :)


that is some DARK atf...


Well externally the valve body and filters dont look too bad... still hope for a rebuild hehe.


Trans cooler lines disconnected after blowing all fluid back and out of the cooler and return lines with air on the high side.


*yay* a coolant leak. will have to keep an eye on that, and find it later...


LOL got bored last night when i was missing the right socket and stores were already closed.... i have a 1/2 clean garage/workshop now, and the beginnings of a tool wall :).

Well back to it, more pictures to follow. Anyone sees anything i'm missing in the pics, please feel free to add to it :)
ya yer missing the caulking in the caulking gun....:poke: as for measurements of yer shaft that's fubar..how bout compressed from rear end flange/mount to weld near the DC and extended too?

Where U located? put it in yer info .....lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
ya yer missing the caulking in the caulking gun....:poke: as for measurements of yer shaft that's fubar..how bout compressed from rear end flange/mount to weld near the DC and extended too?

Where U located? put it in yer info .....lol
Rear compressed 24 extended 27 3/8
Front compressed 31 3/8 extended 34 1/8

Caulking is on the shelf :p hehe

I'll post some pics in a bit showing exactly where I measured. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Rear compressed 24 extended 27 3/8
Front compressed 31 3/8 extended 34 1/8

Caulking is on the shelf :p hehe

I'll post some pics in a bit showing exactly where I measured. Cheers

Rear shaft at the DC yoke weld compressed.


Rear shaft at the DC yoke weld extended.


where i measured the rear shaft to compressed, the inside of the u-joint flange.


where i measured the rear shaft to extended, the inside of the u-joint flange.


Front shaft at the inside of the forward u-joint flange extended.


Where i measured the front shaft. the inside of the forward u-joint flange, to the inside of the weld on the rear u-joint flange.

let me know if that's clear enough, and if you need any other measurements. :beer_cheers:
 

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Where i measured the front shaft. the inside of the forward u-joint flange, to the inside of the weld on the rear u-joint flange.

let me know if that's clear enough, and if you need any other measurements. :beer_cheers:
Hey isnt that one that is shorter the one with the DC that is/was hooped? Doesn't it go on the rear?

I just measured mine and took the rubber boot of the spline my weld by yoke to weld by spline is 15 1/4" on centre of both welds see pic

My shaft has flanges both ends does yours? For all intents and purposes it appears your shaft is the same as mine and I just may be lucky enough to have one that will work. It would appear so thus far.





This is the Tcase flange mount

This is the rear diff mount


That bout sums it up for me...oh ya compressed yoke UJ centre to UJ centre appears to be 25 5/8"

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey isnt that one that is shorter the one with the DC that is/was hooped? Doesn't it go on the rear?

I just measured mine and took the rubber boot of the spline my weld by yoke to weld by spline is 15 1/4" on centre of both welds see pic

My shaft has flanges both ends does yours? For all intents and purposes it appears your shaft is the same as mine and I just may be lucky enough to have one that will work. It would appear so thus far.





This is the Tcase flange mount

This is the rear diff mount


That bout sums it up for me...oh ya compressed yoke UJ centre to UJ centre appears to be 25 5/8"

I'd have to check the measurements again, but my shafts are diff. on the front its yoke on both sides. on the rear, its flange to tcase, and yoke to rear end yoke. no flange.... i was suprised to see that as well, my 92' f150 was slip yoke on front, to flange on rear.... Im done in the shop for the night, ill re-verify the measurements for ya tomorrow. and yes, the shorter one is the rear end shaft, wituout the DC on it, the pin and cup are hidden behind the tape measure. and LOL nice pussy....cat in the one picture hehe. hmmm must have been burnt earlier, i look at the pictures i took, and the rear looks like its 17, weld on yoke to weld on slip yoke, probably 17 1/4 center of weld to center of weld... lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey another question, what are everyone's thoughts on sway bars? My bronco has them front and rear currently, which granted makes it TIGHT on the highway, im guessing will limit flex offroad. Any suggestions, keep the front remove the rear, remove both etc?
 

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Hey another question, what are everyone's thoughts on sway bars? My bronco has them front and rear currently, which granted makes it TIGHT on the highway, im guessing will limit flex offroad. Any suggestions, keep the front remove the rear, remove both etc?
fab or purchase quick disconnects for both, then u can have the best of both worlds.
 

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its not that bad to fab. i dont know what style ends are on those bronco's but lots of the time you can just unscrew the nuts from the rod attaching to the end drill through the rod and put a pin in instead
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
AWESOME. my lift components showed up today. Will be putting those in, and finishing ithe tranny swap this weekend i guess. Here's pics drool lol. Question, am i going to need a spring compressor, or should i be able to lower the axles enough to release the springs? Thanks in advance.

 

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AWESOME. my lift components showed up today. Will be putting those in, and finishing ithe tranny swap this weekend i guess. Here's pics drool lol. Question, am i going to need a spring compressor, or should i be able to lower the axles enough to release the springs? Thanks in advance.

Not entirely sure how you intend to get that steering wheel to function wirelessly with your steering box though I am sure you'll figure it out, I guess it's some new fangled type of orbital steering or electric power steering like in a quad; as for the lift kewl
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not entirely sure how you intend to get that steering wheel to function wirelessly with your steering box though I am sure you'll figure it out, I guess it's some new fangled type of orbital steering or electric power steering like in a quad; as for the lift kewl
Bwahahahahahaha. Wasn't planning on it but hmmmm that could be a fun project. Remote control for truck hehe
 

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Bwahahahahahaha. Wasn't planning on it but hmmmm that could be a fun project. Remote control for truck hehe
Perhaps you could hook it up in the rear seat area and drive remotely from there....tint out those back side windows and freak people out with no driver. Interesting thought.
 
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