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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay, I am pretty interested in knowing the different specs and differences with the 03-06 rubis and the new ones.

I know that the newer ones are longer, shorter etc, ( i read wikipedia) but what I am confused about is the " computer controlled" braking, accelerating, etc?

DO they effect you when wheeling in 4hi/low? or just on the street in 2high?


Thanks,
Andrew
 

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the 07-10 JK is drive by wire and all gizmoed up, the 03-06 were cable and more basic. The early had a superior engine. Current have a less than exciting power plant. Other than the transmission, they changed everything.
 

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i've had an 03 rubi for 4 years now and i love it. if were to do it again i'd get a LJ long wheelbase TJ rubicon. I hate having no storage behind the back seat especiallly gearing up for camping. thinking about the roof racks to solve some of that issue.
the 4L is a real off road engine. pretty thirsty in 4hi/4lo but what isn't. only thing i'd change is i'd like Air conditioning..... don't know much about the new ones but im sure a 03-06 will be available for a steal from people who haven't even offroaded them at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
something a bit more basic would probally be better off road?
Plus, more parts and cheaper parts available for the 03-06 id imagine. the long wheelbase lj tj rubicon your talking about? thats the 4 door 03-06? or 07 current model?

i agree a longer tub would be nice. but can always get a hitch basket ?
 

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LJ is from 03-06. 2doors 10" more wheelbase and a 15" overall longer tub than a TJ.

I have one. Great size. Depending on what you intend to do with the Jeep and what you intend to build, it can be more cost effective to buy a non-Rubi and build it. This is the route I did and think I came out well ahead.

Roof racks and rear hitch baskets suck. The weight up top helps make you tippy and it increases and already large wind drag and sail. hitch baskets are not much use when you have a decent sized tire on the back and they cut down on trail friendlyness in cross ditch and other type situations. Not to mention all that added extra weight now that much further out back past the axle. Can make the front feel light and cause other handling characteristics.

The 4DR JKs will be coming down even more this summer as the 2011 is expected to get a new and far superior engine to the current mill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I hear the lockers are prone to breakage in the rubi, so what your saying is you don't miss the 4:1 gearing in the tcase? the tougher tcase and trans?


Interesting points about the baskets, I didn't think about the small details you mentioned at all.
 

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The 05- present LJ, TJ and the JKs all use the same transmissions. One is no really that much better or worse than the others. There is no HD transmission.

The TJ/LJ rubi lockers are decent but like anything, are driver destroyed. I have seen guys on 33s break them, and others on 37s have no problems.

LJs and TJs are not new, they are at least 4 years old now. There are alot of 08 JKs for sale now too. If you are buying new, wait till the 2011 model. Not one of them in stock form is worth 30k.

I have an 05 that I have had since the summer of 08. It gets used, but I would not call it beating on it. Its my daily, have to drive it to work on Monday sort of thing. But I don't see alot of my upgrades as expenses. If I only spend the money once, its well spent. I spent money on the poison spyder tub armour. Sure its pricey after paint, but after banging into the flares a little bit on some trees here and there, as it happens.... my tub is still straight. Most who do that with a TJ/LJ no longer have a straight tub. The tubs can bend easier than one realizes

I never had 4:1 t-case gearing. I had the NP231. replaced it with an Atlas 4spd. now I have 2.72 and 3.83 reductions. Much better for an all round vehicle. 2.7 for the mild stuff, 3.8 for crawling slow. 10.3 for just stupid slow. Was about the best mod I did.
If you go with an auto box, the NP231 is fine, and the Advance Adapters "Rubi-Crawler" box goes in nice and easy for another 2.7 reduction. No need to change drive shaft lengths or anything else.

I am running a Mopar 44 front housing, trussed lower control arm mounts, new HD upper pass side control arm mount, alloy shafts and ARB. Rear axle is a Solid Axle HD Dana 44 with ARB, alloys, and some Wilwood disk brakes. For what it would have cost to upgrade the stock axles to handle 35+" tires, this was actually a cheaper way to go and I think I ended up with superior axles than just upgraded stock.
 

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The Jeep Islander is making a come back from what hear. I mean who doesn't want Tiki Bob on their hood?
There is also a new model called the Mountaineer. Its going to be basically the same as the Islander only with different graphics. Unfortunately, no diesel for the Wranglers in North America.
 

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The electronic control prevents fishtailing and wheel spin in off road situations by actuating the brake for the wheel that's spinning, thereby giving the other wheel traction - and preventing you from doing a 180. A friend of mine loved it compared to his TJ - just a bit more peace of mind on the sometimes unpredictable forestry roads around BC. Off road (in challenging bits), it's a moot point as turning on the lockers most likely also disables any kind of traction control electronics as well (I could be wrong, but it would seem really stupid if that wasn't true). With the JK Rubi, the lockers are also much different, being electronically activated instead of air activated, and much stronger. The axles are also completely redesigned for the JK, even though they are D44 they are much much better. See this month's JP magazine for a comparison - they also write about how Mopar is offering JK Rubi D44s in TJ form, so they would bolt right in with the proper wheel pattern and even be an upgrade for an older Rubi.

You should be able to get a TJ Rubicon for really cheap these days. When I was looking, An 03 or 04 was $13-17k depending on mods and condition, and an LJ (only came 04-06 in Rubicon form, 03-06 basic) was about $20-23k. A Rubicon is a really good option and the only reason I didn't go for one is because I had another vehicle that I had to get rid of and I wasn't able to find ab LJ Rubicon to my liking locally. But it'll be more fun to upgrade it over the years :)

And dammit, I wish we got the JK with the diesel powerplant like they get in Europe...

If they came out with the "JT" pickup in diesel form tomorrow morning, I'd ditch the LJ before lunch.


MMmmmmmmm....
 

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The axles are also completely redesigned for the JK, even though they are D44 they are much much better. .

You should be able to get a TJ Rubicon for really cheap these days. When I was looking, An 03 or 04 was $13-17k depending on mods and condition, and an LJ (only came 04-06 in Rubicon form, 03-06 basic)
And dammit, I wish we got the JK with the diesel powerplant like they get in Europe...
The JK D44 front is only a high pinion 44, nothing really special or upgraded about that. the rear Rubicon JK 44 has a bit bigger ring gear. Its not a 44, more like a Dana 50. The regular JK rear 44 is just a regular 44 with metric internals. Not way better than the TJ D44s, but marginally better.

there is alot of mis information on the production of the LJ. alot of it comes from the parts manufacturers There was no 03 model year (though some were built in that calendar year just like every other vehicle). It came out a bit late in the 04 model year. Only came as an auto, no Rubi package. 05 and 06 were the years where a 6spd and a Rubicon package were available.

You do not wish you got the CRD they get in Europe. Is just the anemic 2.8 out of the Liberty. the one engine worth putting in is the 3.0 out of the Grand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I can't see why a diesel would be worth putting into an off road rig, sometimes you need to clear your tires and they just don't have the wheel spin capabilities.

Its funny this is a great thread with good details of specs, keep it coming you guru's!!
 

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I can't see why a diesel would be worth putting into an off road rig, sometimes you need to clear your tires and they just don't have the wheel spin capabilities.
Try out a 3.0CRD Grand Cherokee. no gas 6 Jeep will keep up and it will give the Hemi a run. Its a game changer engine.
 

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Newer rubicons also have longer arms. A new rubicon is considered a long arm old rubicon.
New ruibcons front axle outer c's are prone to bending but easily fixed with gussets.
Very easy to permanently disable the esp (dont need a computer or anything)
Wheelwells/fenders are huge on the new rubicon compared to the old one
I could list more.....
 

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Yes the JK arms are longer than TJ arms, but they are not even close to the length of the arms on a long arm TJ.

Tires cost alot more on a JK. Most tend to stick with the 17" rim size and tires for 17" rims are alot more $$ than the equal on a 15" rim. This also leads to D and E rated tires, instead of the C rated (stiffer sidewall, harsher ride). Upside is there seems to be way more options now for tires on 17" wheels than for 15".
 

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Newer rubicons also have longer arms. A new rubicon is considered a long arm old rubicon.
New ruibcons front axle outer c's are prone to bending but easily fixed with gussets.
Very easy to permanently disable the esp (dont need a computer or anything)
Wheelwells/fenders are huge on the new rubicon compared to the old one
I could list more.....
Only the 08 and newer JK can have the esp disabled, the 07 and some early 08 JK don't have the programing in the ecu to be disabled. Those ones can be taken to the dealer and have the ecu flash updated.
 
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