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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please respond with whatevers on to the top of your head, as I have my valve cover off and am perplexed.

How do I know if my chain has become loose?

Background....

I replace my timing chain on my 4Runner 10K ago. I used the one with plactic guides as the motor has 310K and will be needing a rebuild soon.

Within the past week the chain is making lots of noise, almost like the guides were broken again but they are fine.

When I turn the engine at the crank I notice the the driver side has lots of slack - although the chain had this slack upon installation.

The chain even clicks or jumps a few times as it leaves the bottom gear for every turn of the bottom timing gear.

I replaced the tensioner when I did the chain, as with the 2 gears, guides.

This click or jump is not a tooth of course just a riding up on the tooth and then being pulled down as tension pulls on it.

The top gear has the chain tight and then loose depending on tension. I can pull the chain off the top gear about 2mm when loose but I notice there is side to side movement possible due to the width of the chain and thinest of the gear.

I feel this sound is what I am looking for. It is there constantly, more under acceleration but is gone above 3500RPM.

I know this answer but I am hoping I am wrong... Is there anyway to adjust or fix the tensioner without having to tear the front of the engine apart?????

Could the oil pressure not enought in the tensioner?

Other than that annoying clicking sound, what harm is there at this time - as my guides are intacked so that's not the issue?

BTW The chain and gears look good.




:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update

When using a long screwdriver I push the drivers side of the chain half way between gears. I am able to extend the chain so that it touches BOTH bolts that holds that side's guide on.

That sure seems loose.

Also the tensioner is on the passenger side. It has no effect on the chain when travelling on the drivers side.

I recall with other timing chain kits they mention an issue mounting the chain due to the tension of the new chain. DOA comes to mind. My chain was this loose from the start, why the noise now?:read
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update2

The chain is rubbing on the two bolts that hold the drivers side chain guide. There is noticeable wear on the chain side of the bolt heads.

Hmm why all of a sudden? Chain stretch? After all I'm probably boasting about 80HP
 

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I seriously doubt that your new chain has stretched already. Is it possible that it wasn't the right length to begin with?

I think I remember there not being any real slack on the drivers side when I did mine. That's the side that drives it so you don't want it to have any more than a nominal amount of slack. The passenger side has slack, but it's made up by the tensioner, even without any oil pressure. If the tension is correct at install, then there shouldn't really be all that much lateral movement of the chain on the sprockets either.

I also got the cheap plastic guide kit and did it 6 months ago (20,000km). I thought something was going terribly wrong a couple months ago (sounded just like the chain was making noise) but it turned out to be my alternator pulley bearing. Maybe try removing all belts and running the engine for a few seconds without the pwr steering pump, alternator, water pump, and see if it still makes the same noise. That's the only way I figured mine out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmm informative post. :) I'll remove some belts and see, although I am curious about the wear on the guide bolts.
 

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is it possible the tensioner is stuck or jammed? or possible that something is plugging the oil hole? is it fully extended when stopped? even when the engine is stopped, the spring in the tensioner should keep it tight.

i dont quite understand what you mean about the chain rubbing on the bolt heads. has it worn right through the guides, or is the chain walking off the front of the guides?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Follow this arrow, just below it is the bolts to my chain guide. It comes inward after it rounds the cam gear and rubs the top and bottom bolt. I am thinking of removing the top bolt aa my chain won't last long and a gringing wheel.

This is not a pic of my truck hence the crossed off part is not on my engine.

If I can I'll try using a long screw driver of sorts to compress the tensioner from above, perhaps that'll reset it out fully. I REALLY don't want to have to tear into this again.... I'd rather just rebuild the engine using AMEX then redo that chain on a Geriatric 22RE.

whoa is me :violin
 

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I have seen the wrong bolt be put in the oil pump on the top , the one that goes right threw . Guess whats behind it ? your right ....the tensioner pad ..... if its the wrong length (to long) bolt is installed , it will go right threw and butt up against the tensioner pad holding the pad and rendering the tensioner usless . causing , yes ..... a sloppy chain .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So Slaker removing that bolt should release the tensioner if indeed that's the cause of all this... er slack - excuse the pun. I hope it doesn't leak oil.:p
 

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understand which bolt you mean now. i wouldnt remove it.
and the pump bolt has to be replaced. use the correct shorter one. possably you just mixted a couple botls up and you may find the correct one by pulling the other long ones in the cover.

you also mentioned that when you turned the engine by hand there was slack on the drivers side. you were turning it clockwise looking from the front, correct?

the point i was trying to make about the tensioner is that if it was fully retracted, it wouldnt be tensioning the chain and there is something wrong with it. if it is fully extended, the chain for some reason has stretched beyond it the point where the tensioner can help.
since it started all of the sudden, id say it sounds like the tensioner is cause, as opposed to stretch. that means you do have to tear it all apart again to get at it. id defanitely check what slacker said first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
jeremy said:
that means you do have to tear it all apart again to get at it.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

:baby :baby :baby :baby :baby

I don't wanna, I don't wanna, I don't :angry

I really like tinkering on my truck but to dive back into that job for one little part that :spam ed out on me. :confused2
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Head gasket!!!! I aint removing my head, didn't for the chain I won't for this. All for a geriatric engine too, maybe I'll spring for a rebuild. Anyone got a fresh 22RE longblock kicking around? You can have mine as a core :p
 

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Pony, right now im looking into my engine and debaiting what i need to do. I still have to assess the block and determine if it needs rebuilding yet. If it does i figure ill do some research and calling around to find a reputable rebuild place. Im certain its got to be cheaper than trying to do it yourself, easier too. Ill keep you posted.
 

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I BROKE the timing chain on my old 22RE... it had been changed out and the engine had only a few local road miles and one trip to Moab on it.........
I learned from the parts place I now use that the wear block on some of the timing chain kits was wearing too easily and to only use a factory one (or a Japanese aftermarket piece....ie: Beck/Arnley)
Luckily for me there were no bent valves...
I have to agree that tearing down the entire front off of the engine (and the cylinder head... is NO FUN... at this point you are 2/3 the way to a rebuild anyways.... :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
:angry

Ok so who in town can one trust to rebuild a 22RE with the knowledge and experience on getting these motors to run as good as possible. Can't afford LC Engineering but I like there specs. :)

How much $$$ am I looking at for full rebuild?
How long would it take?

If I decide on rebuilding then might as well just drive it - with that annoying tick tick tick - and organise a rebuild. If the chain breaks I really only have to worry about damage to the head and block.

:read :read :read

Oh this above mention shop would have to take VISA :confused2
 

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Just for the record.....

you do not need to remove the head to change the timing chain on your engine. Just the one bolt that goes down into the timing cover from the head (the one hiding in the little puddle of oil).

Don't break out the credit card yet....I honestly don't think it's as bad as it might look.

As usual, Roger Brown can solve all your problems-

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/TimingChain.shtml

You can remove the timing chain and related parts and inspect everything and have it all back in within a day, a weekend if you're messing around alot and have to make a trip or 2 to Lordco.

I'll bet if you do this you will find the cause of the problem and be able to fix it for very little money, if any. Then, of course, you will still have a little valve ticking but everyone says that's normal, especially Big Bad Pete and his big bad diesel.
 
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