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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 91 22RE with about 140,000kms. Ever since I took it to the mechanic the valve ticking noise got much louder. I believe he said that they were tighter than specs so he loosened them up. Is this normal to have valve ticking noise or did he screw something up. There was hardly any noise before, but now it is much louder. Once the rpm's get to around 2500 the noise goes away. The noise is barely noticable in the cab, but outside you can hear it. Thanks for your feedback, Warlo

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I get my kicks on two wheels and four wheels :)
Yamaha WR400 and 91 Toyota 4X4 P/U
 

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As I have heard, Toys have loud valves to start with.

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86 4-Runner STILL stock
 

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Very loud. MY 3.0 V6 had astonishing loud valves and they were adjusted properly. I think the only reason I can't hear my 22re's is because I have a massive exahust leak.
 

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Hey

Did this "mechanic" of yours no what he is doing? Some questions should have come to mind. Such as how did the valves get over tightend(I highly doubt they were in the first place). Valves lash does not decease with useage it increases. Anyways this is such a simple procedure do it yourself...look up the valve gap (my '88 RE was 0.008" in. 0.012" for exhaust) I used a heavy drag on the feeler guage and just make sure the engine is up to operating temp first (not just warm)

Ok back to your question, your mechanic most likely made the noise worse because: if the clearance between the rocker arm and the values is too great, part of the cams lobe will be used up in removing the excess clearance, and the valve wll not open far enough. This will cause the valve to tap and cause other valve train components to make excessive amounts of noise. blah blah blah too big of gap ----->loss of power.....too small of gap ---> burn the valves and loss of power..error on the side of slightly loose...the only way to know is to do it yourself

remeber the 22re IS AN INHERENTLY noise engine

good luck
 

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I've been asked if my truck was a diesel before


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"Pushing the limits of duct tape and zap straps every day."
 

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Maybe your injectors were the source of the ticking,before they were mal-adjusted,I've heard a lot of noisy toy injectors.
For the record, some engines actually tighten up valve clearance as wear occurs.
Many motorcycle engines with shim under buckets will tighten up to the point of hard or no start conditions.

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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs, 1inch body, 35's, detroit EZ locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.

[This message has been edited by dp (edited January 31, 2002).]
 

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When I first got my truck I decided to adjust my valves just to check if they were in spec. Turns out when I was done they were way louder than before, so I checked with a Toyota mechanic and he told me that you have to tighten the screw adjuster till it's fairly tight on the feeler gauge and the engine is totally hot. This solved my problem. Your mechanic probably didn't tighten them enough.


Mike.

1987 Toyota 4x4 22R

My Toyota page
http://www.geocities.com/vdubster1/
 

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Yep, you do have to make sure that the nut has to be tight before you measure-hopefully a mechanic would know that. Also some engines with solid lifters have to get tightened down a little more than spec after they've been beaten without adjustment. Mine ticked like crazy if they were only tightened to spec so I tightened the lash down a little extra (7-11 I think). Never had any problems! As long as they're not tightened down too much, then you'll burn em out. Ask the guys on the pirate board, they'll know if this is a common procedure.

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Did the mechanic do a combustion chamber clean ? if he did then the carbon on your valves have been removed, which is good but that's what dampened the ticking noise. Now that that's gone you hear your valves.

Or maybe he did'nt adjust your valves right.

Or maybe he did the combustion chamber clean and now lost oil pressure at idle.


Just adding another possibility to the rest of the posts...

whatever everyone else says makes sense too.


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Hard work often pays off after time, but lazyness always pays off now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
WOW, thanks for all the feedback! I have printed all the responses out and my buddy (mechanically inclined) and myself will get to the bottom of this. Anybody know of a trustworthy mechanic around the lower mainland? Thanks so much again, Warlo

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Yamaha WR400 and 91 Toyota 4X4 P/U
 

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this question seems to be continiously asked and it seems people are paranoid if there engine isn`t absolutely silent. 20r and 22r engines dont have hydraulic lifters which means that any adjustments have to made manually be hand. when your engine gets hot, the valves, being made of metal, will expand. thus a certain amount of 'play ' must be allowed to compensate for this. this play in the valvetrain caused the rocker to hit the top of the valve, causing a 'tick'. this is NOT a bad noise and is NORMAL. if you valves are adjusted too tight (or set when they are cold) it can cause the valves not to seat correctly. this will cause the valves to leak (poor performance) and will eventually burn them, ruining your valves and seats. valves set too lose will be louder, but the only effect is a slight loss in the amount that the valves open, and a minimal loss in performance. as for your valves getting louder, wear on the face of the valves and seats can cause a decrease in the clearance, therefore they were too tight.
in a nutshell, set your valves to spec. (.008" intake .012" exhaust) while HOT and live with the fact that mechanical lifters make noise.

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