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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a set of coils I will be putting in the rear of my bronco. Is a 9in strong enugh to put 37" maybe 38" meats on it? It will end up being a semi float with discs and not sure what shafts.But will it stand up ro should i get a dana 60. Keep in mind I want all the clearance I can have, so if a 9 will hold up just say.

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there is barely any difference in clearance between a 9" and a dana60,(maybe 1/2"), different story when you start cutting and shaving though, IMHO a semi float 9" (A-20) bearing is not a good choice to hold up 38" tires. There can be no arguement that the Ful float 60 will take more S##t and abuse. Also seeing as the 60 was often used in 3/4 ton heavier GVW trucks they will more often have lower factory gears than the mostly 3.54 1/2 ton 9" has, mind you, if you already own 5 lug rims.......


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[This message has been edited by ChrisOlson (edited December 19, 2000).]
 

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if using factory stuff, the 60 is the winner right away. If you spend cubic $, the 9" can be extremely stout. Mine is worth a small (large?) fortune, full floating w/discs, trussed to the max, and shafts that seem as good as indestructible. If you're going to shave it for clearance, the 9" will be the big time strength winner, IMO. If you can find the right unit to bolt in, get a 60. otherwise spend money and save weight with your 9". Once its built RIGHT, you won't have to mess with it. I've got a huge pile of parts and a forest of broken HD shafts that represent my learning curve. it was fun, but I wouldn't recommend it :) just spend the cash and full float/ truss it the first time around.

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Hrm..

I own a 77 F-150 with a 9" rear, and as 36"+ tires are definitely in my future, I have started to examine my options regarding beefing up the rear end. Ideally, I'd like to keep the 9", mostly because of the hassles associated with swapping to a D60, in addition to size/weight considerations..

Captian Air Time: How exactly did you go about trussing your 9" and doing a full-float conversion? I'd be quite interested to know..

I'm also curious how well a D44 front will stand up to such tires, and what sort of mods are useful. Thanks!
 

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Yes a 9" is plenty strong for those tires. Forget diff clearance. It's a topic that's been running around lately because all the magazines have run out of thing to talk about and need to let the dust settle on the old tired subjects they will start on agian. If 3/4 to an inch of diff clearance is all a person with an early Bronco has to worry about they they have done the following. And these are a whole lot more important to offroad performance in a Bronco than a little diff scrape.

First. Address front and rear axle strength cause if you go to 38" meats a 9" is the least of your worries. Get big bearing 31 spline axles in the rear. The perfect setup for a stock 9" is big bearing 33 spline axles.
Second. Address front end travel.
Third. Figure out what to do about the piss poor drive line angle of a 9".
Fourth. Get disc brakes.
fifth. Traction stuff, Detroits, ARB's, Lock Rights or spools.

IMHO after you get the above, and a few more, basics out of the way it makes sense playing around with 4 links and stuff.
You mentioned you "have a set of coils". What kind? What spring rate? Load carrying capacity?
Ask yourself why are you going to all the trouble and expense of a rear coil 4 link setup when a set of good aftermarket leaves will get you the same amount of travel. How much body hacking with the Sazall are you prepared to do?

I don't mean to be a jerk I'm just asking questions and throwing out ideas. HTH



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Professional Cheese Taster with the ability to satisfy many fine women at the same time----"Fifteen men on a dead man's chest..yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum"
 

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I had one of those semi-floater dana 60's. It had 30 spline axles, as compared to my 9"'s 31 splines, the bearings were close in size, very close, my ruler wouldn't measure the difference, the ring gear was not too much bigger in the 60, and that sucker was waaayy heavier than the 9".

I decided to stay with my 9", I figured the more hypoid gear mesh in the 9" was going to make up for the difference in size, and because the 9" housing is stamped steel, I can weld on a truss and back brace way easier than I can with the 60, so I end up with a super strong housing and 31 spline axles, just as good if not better than the semi float 60. Too bad about the crappy driveshaft angle, but it doesnt really matter in a long wheelbase truck.



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I guess I missed a big chunk of this thread in the last few weeks!
I have the Warn Full Floater setup, and highly reccomend it for strength over the semi floaters. A slight tweak in the stamped steel housing can contribute to many broken semi-floating shafts. Gets expensive. I paid $550 US for the kit about 3? years ago. Not sure what they go for now. At the time, a pair of good semi-floating shafts with bearings was $440 US (Dutchman), so it was a very atractive upgrade after snapping both shafts off in my Detroit locker. They are still there if anyone has a good idea for getting them out???

A trussed 9" will be a good bit lighter than a D60, which still needs trussing, if I'm driving.
If the budget is squeaky tight, run what you've got or can get cheap. If there's a bit of room for upgrades, I'd pick the 9", absolutely. As for driveline angle, it's really not bad at all. I ran over 12" of vertical diff travel in my EB with zero problems (after the third link to prevent wrap-up). A friend of mine has 16"+, with a 8" shorter than stock (thats SHORT) shaft, and again, no problems. If you have 8" of suspension lift, that might cause problems, so you should visit Dr. Sawzall, and get the cure.


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Drive fast, take chances!
I'm on my way to impact, Taste the high speed dirt!

[This message has been edited by Captain Air Time (edited January 24, 2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was thinking of how to get out your shafts in yer detroit. could you drill them out?? or would the splines just be all twisted anyway???

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Originally posted by BRONCO BUSTER:
I was thinking of how to get out your shafts in yer detroit. could you drill them out?? or would the splines just be all twisted anyway???
With a really big drill, it might weaken the stubs enough to pull out, but I was thinking along the lines of welding something to them and put it in a vice with a slide hammer... shouldn't be THAT tight, just near impossible with nothing to get a grip on. A project for some day when there's absolutely nothing else to do
I have no use for a 28 spline locker these days anyway!


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I'm on my way to impact, Taste the high speed dirt!
 

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Thanks for the info, Air Time. Glad to see you finally poked your head back into this thread...


Out of curiosity, who did you go through to get the Warn full floater kit?
 
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