[cdlaser]

Okay,

I'm looking at selling the YJ and picking up a CJ. Need some cash with a baby on the way. I just want to do mild to medium 4 wheelin'.

I know what' i'm looking at when it comes to YJ's and TJ's, but somewhat lost on CJ's. I guess for starters, the engine.

I6(258) compared to my I6(4ltr)...am I screwed with the older engine. How many km's is too many? Power differences? Is it more of a hastle then anything?

AMC20 compared to my Dana35c(and even the 44). Can I run 33's with not too much worry?

Frame. I heard YJ's have a relatively stronger frame then the TJ. whatever. I'm assuming CJ frames are the same platform as the YJ?

I guess overall pros and cons. I don't mind working on my Jeeps to have them running to their max potential, but I don't want to have to replace an engine right away. I'm looking at one that have about 230,000km's. It's had some work done on the engine, and is working great.

Any and all help would be great.

 

[lars]

Originally posted by cdlaser:
I'm looking at selling the YJ and picking up a CJ. Need some cash with a baby on the way. I just want to do mild to medium 4 wheelin'.

Personally, I think you might be better off with a Suzuki since they'll be cheaper to find in good condition and get better fuel economy and are cheaper to modify.

AMC20 compared to my Dana35c(and even the 44). Can I run 33's with not too much worry?

Religiously check that the spindle nuts are REALLY TIGHT. Either that or buy a one-piece axle kit. Might be an idea to weld the tubes into the housing as well. Other than that, they are a strong axle.

Frame. I heard YJ's have a relatively stronger frame then the TJ. whatever. I'm assuming CJ frames are the same platform as the YJ?

TJ frames are the stiffest, then YJ, then CJ.

I guess overall pros and cons. I don't mind working on my Jeeps to have them running to their max potential, but I don't want to have to replace an engine right away. I'm looking at one that have about 230,000km's. It's had some work done on the engine, and is working great.

I don't know much about CJs either. I guess if you can get one old enough that you don't have to worry about emissions stuff, it will make the carburetor easier to live with. Check for rust around the spring hangers and by the steering box. Tub will probably have rust. If not, it will probably be selling for the price of a YJ. <g>

...lars

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19911995409993004:144444.103512.58274

 

[Jeepasaurus]

What/Where are the spindle nuts on the AMC20

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Blue 1981 CJ5 31" tires 1" body lift
*Damnit, anyone see where that door went?"

 

[lars]

Originally posted by Jeepasaurus:
What/Where are the spindle nuts on the AMC20

Sorry, that was the wrong term. They don't actually bolt to a spindle...they thread on to the end of the axleshaft. The AMC20 uses axle shafts splined at both ends. The outer ends fit into a flange which is kind of like a hub. This hub/flange sits on a bearing on the end of the axle tube and slides over the end of the axle shaft. The nuts I'm talking about serve to fasten the hubs/flanges to the shaft. These nuts need to be tight or else the splines will become damaged and eventually the axle shaft will fail.

...lars



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19911995409993004:144444.103512.58274

 

[jo-jo]

Well, as usual it is all relative I guess...

I mean, depends on how your mind works.

Take me for instence:

One Nefarious Island Rock Monkey. A little hairy, can smell bad from time to time, but generally well groomed when among mixed company.

I just like Jeep CJs. Still have a Samurai, but I'm not sure for how much longer.

I don't really care about the negatives of CJs. It's just a matter of coming about with solutions to the problems that you'll have when you buy one.

I may one day own a pretty CJ, but for the most part these days I'm just into functionality (I lie, I think a really beat CJ looks tough...which in turn makes me vain I guess).

Be well prepared for rust. Solution, buy a welder or two. CJ7s can accept YJ tubs, and CJ5s...well, buy new aluminum, fiberglass, or get creative with your newly learned welding skills.

258 I6, my favorite all time engine. Just like it is all...pretty simple to work on, usually lasts forever. Lots of fun, silly, and practical mods can be done.

AMC model 20, some replace with Dana 44s or 60s or replace the shafts with aftermarket units. My solution, buy every cheap axle assembly avialable within a 200 mile radius. Yes, that's right, I have two spare Model 20s, two narrow track Dana 44s, and a Ford 9". That means that I have four spare two peice shafts for the Model 20, and some other options if necessary or just for fun...oops, forgot about the Land Cruiser rear-end.

Frame...what frame? Oh that thing that twists and bends to conform to the terrian...just the way I like 'em.

Don't know if that helped, but that's my way of going about owning a Jeep. Just keep my eyes open for spare parts, not get bothered by rust and quirks, and enjoy the hell out of driving the darn thangs.

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jo-jo
http://island4x4.com

 

[Wes Rempel]

Originally posted by jo-jo:
Frame...what frame? Oh that thing that twists and bends to conform to the terrian...just the way I like 'em.

You have seen pics of Pat's CJ Frame? Is it a bad sign if you are driving along and the roll bar comes up and hits the windshield?

Wes


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...a member of the herd
www.hot.alloffroad.com

 

[robynnhood]

we have a cj wanna buy it?

 

[robynnhood]

we have a cj wanna buy it?

 

[Rhino]

I've only had my CJ for a few months. And really the only thing that I know about it is the stuff I have and to work on or stuff I have upgraded. First, if you have the stock carb. Get rid of it and get a Weber carb. Also if it has a plastic valve cover, spring for a metal one. From what I've heard the plastic ones can crack pretty easy. I had the two piece axles with the threads I think its the one's that Lars was talking about. They suck. If they’re already in there run em, but you may want to look into some one piece. I got my rears for around $200 something. The carb I think ran $340 or so and the valve cover was a refurb that was like 50 bucks or so. Hope that helps.

 

[MikeCj5]

I agree with Lars, buy a 'Zuk or something similar that is relatively cheap to build especially with a baby on the way. The Cj will most likely be more problematic then the Yj. I just built a Cherokee as a daily driver because my Cj5 wasn't too nice to drive in the cold or rain. Also, Cj will cost more to maintain and will break down more often than a Yj

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80 Cj5, 360amc, Swampers, Custom 5in. lift, Off Road only
92 XJ 6" Rubicon, 32s, strictly street

 

[stihl036]

Mike CJ5: Shame, Shame....As the owner of a "5" how could you tell someone to buy a Zuk? Especially when you have a 360?

Jo-Jo: Good Advice, I like the cut of your jib.

My GF had a Zuk with 31's and the thing could hardly do highway speeds, down hill with a head wind. And too small. Easy Suzi boys...I agree that Suzukis are good value, capable rigs. I am always looking for one, just not to use on the Highway. You see a tonne of them being towed by hunters up here (cheaper than ATV's)

I just plain like CJs so I am biased. 258 is easy to work on, good torque and fair
(+/- 20mpg) gas mileage. The 4.0 has way more power. Gas mileage???

I have not had any problems yet with the M20 but I likely will, get spare shafts or one pieces (+/-$400 from NSOR.) I am not convinced that the 258 has enough power to break a well maintained M20. So I will wait until it happens. Overall, I think the 258 will serve you well.

How much are you going to pay for the 230K CJ?

Good luck

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1983 CJ5, 8274, 3" lift, 235/85R/16,OBA,OBB!
1984 Chev 3/4 ton 4X4
1999 Dodge Dakota 4x4. The dragon's truck!

[This message has been edited by stihl036 (edited October 11, 2001).]