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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive got a couple problems with my '88 Ranger XLT. It's got the 2.9 L with a 5 speed. I can't dump the clutch from a full stop and have it engage fully. it only engages half way, and rides the clutch until it decided to work properly or until I back off the gas. would that just be air in the lines, and i have to bleed the system, or is it my clutch plate and i need to replace it???

Second problem is my starter. ever since I got my leaf packs re-vamped in the back my bendix has been hitting the flywheel. It does it worse on some days and not at all on others. how long will it take for the bendix to completely wear out and my truck won't start? what kinda damage can it do to the flywheel and the bell housing?? is there a possibiltiy of having contamination of engine oil, or tranny oil from this??

Another problem that I have is i think that I have the wrong gear ratio for the tires that I have. would it make a big difference is I had 215/75R15 factory stock tires and replaced them with 235's? Do i have to make any gear changes, or is it that big a deal?? there are some wierd shakes and shimmies in my truck that I don't know what the cause is.

Thanks:confused: :read :confused2
 

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If you only have this problem when you are heavy on the gas then I've got the same clutch issue Charlie. I have heard and have come to believe it is weak by design. Are you heavy on the RPM when you try to roll out from a stop? I find when I try to take off from the line with over 2000 rpm it will ride somewhat. This problem hasn't lessened for me with bigger tires and appropriate gears. I haven't spent any real time on this issue and plan on waiting til the clutch needs replacing. At that point I will invest in a heavier system and see first hand the components from the old clutch system.
235 tires will exagerate the weak clutch even more. Actually the stock tire size might even be 205. Going up a few stock tire sizes for most vehicles is no big deal. read your driver door sticker to find out the original recommended tire size. It will also show your axle/gear ratio code with a number that you can lookup on therangerstation.com. Mine came with 3.45 gears. Some times (usually if you play in the mud) the space between the fingers can get plugged thus reducing the grab. I have taken mine to the car wash and removed the inspection cover and blown the crap out of it thru this and the vent holes around the housing and it has helped a little. Just be sure to do it before you wash the rest of the vehicle so you have a dry enough clutch so you can leave.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Re: '88 Ranger problems

Billy Goat said:
If you only have this problem when you are heavy on the gas then I've got the same clutch issue Charlie. I have heard and have come to believe it is weak by design. Are you heavy on the RPM when you try to roll out from a stop? I find when I try to take off from the line with over 2000 rpm it will ride somewhat. This problem hasn't lessened for me with bigger tires and appropriate gears. I haven't spent any real time on this issue and plan on waiting til the clutch needs replacing. At that point I will invest in a heavier system and see first hand the components from the old clutch system.
235 tires will exagerate the weak clutch even more. Actually the stock tire size might even be 205. Going up a few stock tire sizes for most vehicles is no big deal. read your driver door sticker to find out the original recommended tire size. It will also show your axle/gear ratio code with a number that you can lookup on therangerstation.com. Mine came with 3.45 gears. Some times (usually if you play in the mud) the space between the fingers can get plugged thus reducing the grab. I have taken mine to the car wash and removed the inspection cover and blown the crap out of it thru this and the vent holes around the housing and it has helped a little. Just be sure to do it before you wash the rest of the vehicle so you have a dry enough clutch so you can leave.;)
What do you mean about removing the inspection cover? On the bell housing itself? and just washing it with water is alright? I don't need to add oil or anything afterwards do I? The clutch thing isn't my fault then, thats good. But my brothers Ranger does fine off the line above 2000 RPM. He's got a 92 with the 3.9 litre i think. would that be the deciding factor? the engine size? Thanks for the info Bill. I will be sure to write the numbers down next time I open the door and pop into the Ranger Station and check things out. BTW hows the new rig treating ya? is it a huge difference with the solid F/A rather than the split?

:canadian
 

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Hey meatloaf .

About the clutch thing- If you accidentally ride the clutch at a high rpm once or twice there is a good chance that you may "glaze" the clutch . This means that the preassure plate actually polished the clutch disc to a mirror like finish . This would make the clutch slip under medium to high torque . If you are on a very ,very ,very tight budget you could pull it all apart and scuff up the clutch disk with some sandpaper on a block ..............But ..... I would not recomend this !!!!!!!!!!!!

This is a cheap time intensive and temporary fix .....If you are gonna pull everything apart the put in all new parts (clutch plate ,preassure plate .throwout bearing and pilot bearing ) becouse of the size of the job you will want to do it right once .

Besides doing it right once costs about as much as a tow bill (when your clutch gives out in the bush) ...

Good luck with it .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info guys. The clutch will have to wait until i can get the money together. I will shortly have the place to do it (my new HOUSE) and after that I have to wait until the money starts to flow in. but it makes sense about the glazing. Thanks again guys. how hard is it to change a starter on a ranger like mine??

:confused: :confused: :canadian
 
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