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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You get to see pictures of my latest creation....http://www.greatnorthern.net/~fearme/tech/project4.html


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FearMe is only for fun, my real name is Roger and I'm a smartassed punk----"Fifteen men on a dead man's chest..yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum"
 

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Wow -- the project looks quite a bit different than I expected! What sparked the change in body design?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by sdillen:
Wow -- the project looks quite a bit different than I expected! What sparked the change in body design?
Half a bottle of Southern Comfort.



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FearMe is only for fun, my real name is Roger and I'm a smartassed punk----"Fifteen men on a dead man's chest..yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum"
 

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I guess that it's only a Bronco 1 5/8 now huh?? although it's looking pretty groovy!!!
the question on everyones mind is....... when you flex will the foe dees take out the taillights???




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only we make "the whistling sound" www.OTTindustries.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by AIRZUKI:
I guess that it's only a Bronco 1 5/8 now huh?? although it's looking pretty groovy!!!
the question on everyones mind is....... when you flex will the foe dees take out the taillights???

Nope, got that all figured in. They might take out the headlights though.


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FearMe is only for fun, my real name is Roger and I'm a smartassed punk----"Fifteen men on a dead man's chest..yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum"
 

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lose the lift gate dude!!!

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78 Bronco 351M SM435 NP205, D44 and Ford 9", and all stock!!!
 

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That's pretty funky. I think I like it.


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Paul Gagnon
New Westminster, B.C.
"No Brain, No Pain"
A page from my book.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by desteurm:
lose the lift gate dude!!!

As soon as I can find a cheap Ranger tailgate. And BTW lose the M dude!!!



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FearMe is only for fun, my real name is Roger and I'm a smartassed punk----"Fifteen men on a dead man's chest..yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum"
 

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Originally posted by FearMe:
As soon as I can find a cheap Ranger tailgate.
How cheap do ya want it? I have a functional one sitting here gathering dus...er, Rust. Not at all pretty, but it IS a tailgate, and it does work.
BTW, the 2.3Turbo is coming out, and the 5.0 is going in. I sold my billion dollar 9" for a good buck, so now I'm contemplating other options... see new post.
Erik


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I'm on my way to impact, Taste the high speed dirt!
 

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so how do you make radius arms droop more? I just added 3.5" more lift to my Ford, which if the coils rating of 9" lift is correct will be 12.5". Now here lies the problem, I already have dropped the frame mount of the radius arm 4" to get caster back and also to allow more droop, but the suspension won't droop more than two to three inches now, arms apear to be binding in the bracket.
Is there a way to get it to go without going all out and building a 9" drop bracket? Cause thats what I'm sitting here designing right now.



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Dan
91 Cherokee, mostly stock.
69 F100 mostly modified.
72 Datsun 510, mostly Bondo.
 

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Originally posted by Dan:
so how do you make radius arms droop more? I just added 3.5" more lift to my Ford, which if the coils rating of 9" lift is correct will be 12.5". Now here lies the problem, I already have dropped the frame mount of the radius arm 4" to get caster back and also to allow more droop, but the suspension won't droop more than two to three inches now, arms apear to be binding in the bracket.
Is there a way to get it to go without going all out and building a 9" drop bracket? Cause thats what I'm sitting here designing right now.


a cheap and easy, though not perhaps best fix is indexed radius arm bushings check BCbroncos.com
better is to have the radius arms bent for caster, (or cut and turn the knuckles) and angle the radius arm brackets at the frame for less bind. If you're messing around with brackets anyway, might as well make it crooked :)
Can you explain a reason for 12.5" of lift? the ride is worse, its less stable, has less travel, and the biggest legal tire is still only 44", IIRC. Some cut out flares and a 3" body lift should have you well on your way, maybe 3 or4" suspension to get more travel?? Then you could drive it!



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I'm on my way to impact, Taste the high speed dirt!
 

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Well the radius arm bushings I have, got the 7 degree ones, which worked for the 6" of lift I have originally. The seven degree bushings are the max you can get. Not enough for this much lift.

The reason for this much lift is due to design of the truck. Its a 69, I dont wanna go and cut out the fenders, I want a tall truck with the stock looking body. The wheel openings are a little smaller than in the next body style, I'm only trying to fit 38.5's comfortably without cutting fenders. Of course I might not actually have a foot of lift either. The coils are 9" lift coils meant for a 78/79 F150, mines a 69, who knows if the coil towers are the same height or not, I may have less lift than that, I dont know for sure, I dont have a baseline measurement since the truck was already lifted when I got it.
I've lifted the truck according to how I want the tires to look in the wheel openings. I originally was gonna leave it at the 9", but the tire gets just a little closer to the front edge of the fender than I want it to when the wheels are turned. Please dont knock me for building a tall truck, there are plenty of trucks around that are far taller than mine. The suspension will be no more stiff than it was with my 4-6" lift before, the front coils are the same spring rate as my old ones, and the rear leafs are custom built extra long and soft. I moved my spring hangers to fit the longest spring I could for a smooth ride.
Body lift is out of the question, as I want to keep the stock front bumper in the stock location, the body design has part of the front grill go under the bumper, a body lift would mess that all up. I'd have to cut the front of the frame, and raise it up three inches to match the bumper to the body. My other problems is extending the clutch linkage is gonna give me less control with that extra leaverage, and I really hate it when the shifter ends up three inches shorter, and extending the shifter would increase the throw enough to touch the dash in first gear and touch the seat in reverse.

Caster isnt my problem, I'm dealing with suspension travel here, its the angle that the radius arms run through the frame bracket, the axle can only droop so far before the stud through the hole system reaches max travel.
Yeah, thats what I'll do, go to a six inch drop bracket, and angle the brackets so they dont bind, that'll do it, thanks for the idea.

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Dan
91 Cherokee, mostly stock.
69 F100 mostly modified.
72 Datsun 510, mostly Bondo.

[This message has been edited by Dan (edited July 02, 2001).]
 

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Originally posted by Dan:
Well the radius arm bushings I have, got the 7 degree ones, which worked for the 6" of lift I have originally. The seven degree bushings are the max you can get. Not enough for this much lift.


Actually, what I was referring to was the bushing at the OTHER end of the radius arm. Those are now available in offset form to relieve stress as well. Basically does the same as tilting the mount, but it makes the bushing thinner in some areas.

The reason for this much lift is due to design of the truck. Its a 69, I dont wanna go and cut out the fenders, I want a tall truck with the stock looking body. The wheel openings are a little smaller than in the next body style, I'm only trying to fit 38.5's comfortably without cutting fenders. Of course I might not actually have a foot of lift either. The coils are 9" lift coils meant for a 78/79 F150, mines a 69, who knows if the coil towers are the same height or not, I may have less lift than that, I dont know for sure, I dont have a baseline measurement since the truck was already lifted when I got it.
I've lifted the truck according to how I want the tires to look in the wheel openings. I originally was gonna leave it at the 9", but the tire gets just a little closer to the front edge of the fender than I want it to when the wheels are turned. Please dont knock me for building a tall truck,


I don't want to knock you for building a tall truck, I was just curious why you would do it. Everyone has different priorities, I just like to know what makes people tick :)


there are plenty of trucks around that are far taller than mine. The suspension will be no more stiff than it was with my 4-6" lift before, the front coils are the same spring rate as my old ones, and the rear leafs are custom built extra long and soft. I moved my spring hangers to fit the longest spring I could for a smooth ride.
Body lift is out of the question, as I want to keep the stock front bumper in the stock location, the body design has part of the front grill go under the bumper, a body lift would mess that all up. I'd have to cut the front of the frame, and raise it up three inches to match the bumper to the body. My other problems is extending the clutch linkage is gonna give me less control with that extra leaverage, and I really hate it when the shifter ends up three inches shorter, and extending the shifter would increase the throw enough to touch the dash in first gear and touch the seat in reverse.

My favorite Ford body style, I don't blame you for not wanting to cut it. I just used to rusty beaters, not to concerned about chopping them up

Caster isnt my problem, I'm dealing with suspension travel here, its the angle that the radius arms run through the frame bracket, the axle can only droop so far before the stud through the hole system reaches max travel.
Yeah, thats what I'll do, go to a six inch drop bracket, and angle the brackets so they dont bind, that'll do it, thanks for the idea.
[/B][/QUOTE]

One more thing to check is the track bar. It could be limiting your travel if it hasn't been dropped enough. Basically, it will be pushing the axle more and more sideways, against the coils, as it droops. At some point, its going to bind. Could even be steering linkage.
Good Luck


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I'm on my way to impact, Taste the high speed dirt!

[This message has been edited by Captain Air Time (edited July 03, 2001).]
 

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Oh, didnt realize there was a relieved bushing at the frame end, cool.

Track bars okay, I have a Superlift adjustable track bar, and lengthened the mount to make the geometry right to match my dropped pitman arm

"Everyone has different priorities, I just like to know what makes people tick :)" Ahh, I understand now.

So the new bracket, eight inches of drop at the front of it, six inches at the rear of it, the angle will make it all good, and then of course build a ramp into the rear half to allow it to slide.
hate to mount these things so low, but its gotta be done till I can afford to get a set of those cool longer arms with the caster built in.

Mostly a mud truck anyway, although I suppose with this big of a tire eight inches below the frame is still pretty high off the ground.


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Dan
91 Cherokee, mostly stock.
69 F100 mostly modified.
72 Datsun 510, mostly Bondo.
 
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