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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
School me on air bumps. I killed a Light racing Hydraulic and can pick up 4 air bumps for the price of 2 hyd.

What stops the bump when it mechanically hits the end of travel?

Best type?

I'm looking at the Fox ones. All 4 with cans for just over 1G.
 

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"mechanically hits"

You answered your own question!
Once compressed it will stop mechcanicaly if set up correctly. If not it will break and something else will eventualy stop it, like a shock. Once that breaks either the axel bottoms out or the links bind up.

Sounds like your last race eh!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"mechanically hits"

You answered your own question!
Once compressed it will stop mechcanicaly if set up correctly. If not it will break and something else will eventualy stop it, like a shock. Once that breaks either the axel bottoms out or the links bind up.

Sounds like your last race eh!

That's how I killed my hyd stop. Too much bottoming, they only had 1.5" travel.

This should give you an idea.
 

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SNOWMAN
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FOA makes a 2.5 inch X 4 inch and comes with the cans for 150 each, and comes with a 6 month warranty
 

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My vote for FOA
 

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SNOWMAN
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Where did you get them?
bought them direct from foa. I never did talk to anyone there, just did it online and had them in 10 days as they did have to build them. Paulie now has a pair on the trooper and seem to work well, good deal imo
 

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we used about every brand of airbump available on different projects. price wise and quality we had very good luck and reliability with Rad flo airbump... their shocks are "ok" but really liked the airbumps. Rock equipment bumps blew apart and had very poor luck with those. King, SAW, FOX, and bilstein are all good quality products. FOA seemed ok I kinda look at their shocks and parts as the "walmart" brand of suspension components. they are not as nicely made... but for the buyer who does not car about finish they probibly will work fine.

one thing to look at If your blowing bumps apart you may want to look into stopping your uptravel with everything bottoming at once. your springrate should ramp up and slow before full collapse so the bump is more of an "assist" VS a stop to keep parts from hitting and they will last longer. you smash anything into another object enough it will venetually break. you may want to check secondary spring adjusters and your rates increase the lower a bit lighten the upper (so you keep current static rate or your current ride) than adjust your primary spring to come in full 3 to 4" before full bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info.

One of the reasons I am going away from the Hyd stops is that you need to remove them to make major changes to the valving. I plain didn't have enough time to remove and change after every race.

For short coursing, my compression was a little light with the rebound on the heavy side. You can see in the pic, my front suspension isn't fully dropped out.
It would be nice to have 2 full sets of coilovers, one set for slow, one set for go.

I might be leaning towards the king 2.0's. Any opinions?
 

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Thanks for the info.

One of the reasons I am going away from the Hyd stops is that you need to remove them to make major changes to the valving. I plain didn't have enough time to remove and change after every race.

For short coursing, my compression was a little light with the rebound on the heavy side. You can see in the pic, my front suspension isn't fully dropped out.
It would be nice to have 2 full sets of coilovers, one set for slow, one set for go.

I might be leaning towards the king 2.0's. Any opinions?
If you spend a ****ton of time dialing them in you should be able to use one set in both senarios. rather than 2 sets maybe a higher end shock in the nose with more technology and a coil carrier with bypass in the rear.

In the senario of my car if I want to make changes I could adjust the bypass tubes on the rear and just change pressure in the front shocks. no disassembly just adjustments. but the front shock requires "base valving" maning the res actually has valving also keeping the cavatation on the shock to the min giving it a bettter ride and eliminating sharp edge harshness at slow speed but still able to take knee deep whoops at 50-60 with full control.

King does not offer base valving that is a bilstein thing but eliminates the need or want to run coilcarrier with bypass in the nose. when you want to harshen it up I up the nite pressure in the nose... if I want it softer I dump some.

King is a good product and with tuning I think you could make one set of shocks work... just alot of tuning... and than more tuning. it just sucks to need to run 2 shocks on the front with it already being so cluttered with stuff moving every direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm running Fox coilovers. They are alot easier to tune, but still need to be dissassembled. The kings will be the bumpstops.

I've thought about changing out the aluminum links to a fabricated to add the second shock.
 

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I like the way the radflow bumps are built with a stop so even if the can loosens up you still have a hard stop keeping them from slipping into the can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I like the way the radflow bumps are built with a stop so even if the can loosens up you still have a hard stop keeping them from slipping into the can.

Is is machined right into the can or is it part of the threaded cap?

I was under the impression that all air bumps had some sort of ridge to stop it from going up into the can. The radflo's just have a bigger lip. :confused:
 

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Some have c clips, some like the kings bolt in at the top and don't use pinch bolts, radflows use pinch bolts and the bottom cap.

You can kinda see it in this pic. Its similar to how they build lowridercar hydraulic cylinders, and they can take a good beating.
 

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