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a while ago there was a posting for a place that sells Optima style gel batteries cheap. Ithink it was in the toy tech section but not sure. Anybody have any ideas? i believe someone said burrard battery, but not to sure. Any info would be appreciated... Thanks

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`80 ToyChoda
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It wasn't me that posted anything but I've got a connection with a battery wholesaler that carrys the Optima. If you want, let me know what size and colour battery you want and I can get you a price.

I can also get a lot of electric forklift type stuff like Anderson battery connectors, switches, lights, solenoids, alarms, etc. at good prices.

Ed
 

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Not that I'd expect you to know asleepatthewheel, but what are the different sizes that Optima makes? I'd be interested in taking you up on that offer.

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"You bobbed it how many inches? NINETEEN?!?! Oh my..."
 

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I don't know a whole lot about the Optimas. The best thing would be to go onto a distributors website and figure out what you need from there. It looks like there's only a limited number of battery sizes.
http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/

Here's another page that's a little more interesting http://www.optimaoffroadcontest.com/

Ed

[This message has been edited by asleepatthewheel (edited March 03, 2002).]
 

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My sister runs two in her landcruiser, the red tops, she loves them, never fail. She paid around $170 a piece I believe a NAPA.

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I have a Optima 6V in my Model A and its never fails. The batter is 8 years old and cranks the old girl like there is no tomorrow!!!

will get a couple (going to dual for the Winch)for my truck when the one in it Dies.

Also had one in my old truck and when I sold it the guy wasnt going to buy if it I didnt throw in the battery! even offered to get him a brand new one.

later
Ken


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Only in Canada Eh.....
 

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While we're on the topic... Ed, can you get an isolator for three batteries? I'm toying with the idea of adding a 3rd battery, since I have a couple of spares. The only problem I've found with the Optimas is that they don't have a lot of reserve; my starter batt has 800cca, and my deep cycle has 750cca. My cooler drains the deep cycle overnight (around 4pm - 8am, depending on how early we roll into camp). I'd like some extra juice for running the comm gear, helping out the winch, etc.


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Greg Sue
85 Toyota X-cab
http://media-north.com/4wd/
 

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I want to get just one yellow top Optima, NSOR quoted me $280 I think it was? Anybody get theirs cheaper somewhere else?

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"You bobbed it how many inches? NINETEEN?!?! Oh my..."
 

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Dignity? Intelligence? Mechanical ability?
You've got mail!


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"You bobbed it how many inches? NINETEEN?!?! Oh my..."
 

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Sorry, nothing in my catalogues about them, we don't use them on forklifts at all. Probably best to check out the RV places or try Polar Battery on Boundary. I would rather use the Cole Hershee 24059 solenoids instead. No voltage loss through them.

Ed


Originally posted by Greg:
While we're on the topic... Ed, can you get an isolator for three batteries? I'm toying with the idea of adding a 3rd battery, since I have a couple of spares. The only problem I've found with the Optimas is that they don't have a lot of reserve; my starter batt has 800cca, and my deep cycle has 750cca. My cooler drains the deep cycle overnight (around 4pm - 8am, depending on how early we roll into camp). I'd like some extra juice for running the comm gear, helping out the winch, etc.


 

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How do those solenoids work, anyways? I understand the theory of the diodes in the isolator stopping reverse voltage, but when a solenoid is connected, voltage can flow in either direction. So how do they isolate the batteries?

My truck is currently wired so that the alternator wire goes to the isolator common, and each isolator terminal goes to a battery positive. Everything is always connected, so the batteries are always receiving a charge from the alternator. The entire truck runs off the deep cycle battery, except the starter; the starter (and nothing else) runs off the starting battery. This way, no matter what I do, ie. leave the lights on, radios on, cooler on, winch session without the engine running, etc., I can always start the truck. Also, I can flip a switch which causes a solenoid to jump both batteries together.

That reminds me, I smoked my Ford-type starter solenoid when I accidentally left it on after self-boosting, so I'll need to pick up a continuous-duty solenoid to replace it. Is that what the 24059 is? What's it rated at?



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Greg Sue
85 Toyota X-cab
http://media-north.com/4wd/
 

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My Brother just bought a yellow top one from Mopac on Kingsway in Van and paid 290. It took a month for them to get it though.


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85 Toyota XtraCab 4x4, 31's and in progress...
 

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just in the process of putting in dual bats with soleniod using circuit boss current control system has one solenoid and and three position switch

switch centered: solenoid not engaged second bat completely seperate only main bat charged/discharged

switch up: solenoid on only when ignition in the run and start position charge both bats when running but only discharge main bat when key off

switch down: solenoid on all the time even with key off

another system i have heard of is to run two solenoids and two switched one set for each bat

hope that helps greg
 

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i just bought a yellow top from mopac for $302 including tax it sure starts my lil 4 cyl
 

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Mike, I think what you are saying then is it's a manually-switched system.

When the switch is "centered", the solenoid is inactive, so you have a conventional single-battery system.

When the switch is "up", the solenoid activation voltage is taken from an ignition-switched source, which would engage both batteries only as long as the ign switch is on. This allows both batteries to be used and both to charge. This does not isolate the batteries.

When the switch is "down", the solenoid activation voltage is taken from a constant source such as one of the batteries, which engages the solenoid as long as that source has power. This allows both batteries to be used and both to charge. This does not isolate the batteries.

I would guess that the "up" position is the usual selection? I'm wondering how that affects the batteries, not having them isolated, or do they only fight each other while they are connected but not being charged?


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Greg Sue
85 Toyota X-cab
http://media-north.com/4wd/
 

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hey greg
with swtich in the so called up position the batteries are isolated when the ignition is not engaged this prevents the "dualing battery" syndrom which could cause them to self discharge......

i pulled this off roger browns web page: "Another option for this function is a battery isolator. This is a solid-state device that uses diodes to isolate the batteries from each other. While an isolator is ideal for isolating a deep-cycle RV-type battery for aux. power use, its inherent voltage drop makes it less than ideal for use in high-current situations like winching and crank starting" i had also heard of this before and was one of the reasons i sayed away from an isolator also lets say your starting batt dies how do you use your other bat to start the motor with an isolator do you have to switch the wiring i never really understood how isolators works (diodes and such) anyways another way i have heard of for dual batts is to use a haevy duty marine switch (i found one at lordco but they wanted more than continous duty solenoid kit)

 

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Originally posted by interior_mike:
with swtich in the so called up position the batteries are isolated when the ignition is not engaged this prevents the "dualing battery" syndrom which could cause them to self discharge.
So, that would mean that they do not fight while they are being charged; only while at rest. I didn't know that.

As far as isolators go, the standard units (see note below) have 2 diodes and one common post. The alternator is connected to the common post, and each battery positive terminal is connected to the other end of the diodes. Diodes only let voltage flow in one direction, so the batteries can be left permanently attached and charging, and won't fight each other at rest. Voltage drop through a diode is typically .7v, not much, and if you have an adjustable voltage regulator you can compensate. Winching power is taken right from the battery and does not require the alternator; the alternator merely charges the battery and ours only puts out 60A so there won't be a lot of current passing through the isolator (that's 60A divided by 2 batteries, or 30A per side, depending on charge state). The reasons I chose to go with an isolator is because it was a totally-automatic system, and at the time I couldn't figure out how the solenoid-based system would isolate the batteries (and as it turns out, it doesn't, but that appears to be irrelevant).

If one of my batteries dies, I have a switch that activates a solenoid that jumps both batteries together, powered by the starter battery of course because if I used the other battery I wouldn't be able to engage the solenoid when that battery was dead.
Which brings me back to me original post about needing a continuous-duty solenoid because I toasted the Ford-type starter solenoid when I accidentally left the boost switch on.

Note: Isolators for Toyotas and some other vehicles have a 4th post; this is for exciting the alternator. If you have an isolator without this post, you can still use it but you will have to tap the accellerator on startup to bring the revs up enough to excite the alternator.


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Greg Sue
85 Toyota X-cab
http://media-north.com/4wd/

[This message has been edited by Greg (edited March 21, 2002).]
 

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i sell interstate if you care,but careful on gel bateries read up on themn for the pros and cons and make sure thats what you want and are gonna use it for

Originally posted by rockjock:
a while ago there was a posting for a place that sells Optima style gel batteries cheap. Ithink it was in the toy tech section but not sure. Anybody have any ideas? i believe someone said burrard battery, but not to sure. Any info would be appreciated... Thanks



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"4x4s eat MORE BUSH!!!"
 

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i was looking into an Optima and was wondering what one to get. i will be running a winch, and a couple of lights. any idea od a reaaaally good price


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Currently building up my 1990 4runner / 33"x12"s 3" body lift 9000LB warn ready to bolt on, and looking for suspention lift...?anybody?
 
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