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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how hard are they to do? i have a noise coming from the front hub area, i'm almost 100% sure it is the bearings. the rear is also giving me a lower pitched noise, any ideas, input?
 

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HAHAHAHAAHAHA that is the $hittiest job in the world!!!! Took me like 2 days to get it done, 12 houts a day. Prepare to get very very dirty and very frustrated. If it's your first time, I would recommend getting some instructions, but it's not too difficult. just very time comsuming. You also need a very large socket for when you get a little deep. I am assuming you have SAS though. Let me know if you have any problems!

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'85 4runner, 6' suspension lift and 35' mudders (my baby)
 

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its simple just helped a buddy do it on an 83 toy takes like 2 hours you do need a big socket with aa one inch drive thought pic one up at lordco u can get the big nut off with a screw driver and what ever else works we used a socket extenson its really easy just remember the order the stuff comes off in and clean everything and regrease it

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81 bronco, 35" mud kings, 6 inch lift , 1 inch body lift,ALARM, cb.
warn winch.
OH DID I MENSION I HAVE AN alarm!?
 

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to check if its the wheel bearing jack the front up and whiggle the tire.

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81 bronco, 35" mud kings, 6 inch lift , 1 inch body lift,ALARM, cb.
warn winch.
OH DID I MENSION I HAVE AN alarm!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
no sas! i just did the wiggle test it has so movement up and down. i'm just getting laid of at kal tire so i was hoping to attempt it my self. i have worked at 2 tires stores and have watch it done and it doesn't look to hard, but you never know ha!!
 

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Jasonped is right it should take you about 2 hours to do and it is dirty but not that bad (the steering knuckle is a dirty job)I didnt have a big socket and was able to get the big nuts off with a small punch and hammer, when putting it all back togather here is the specks straight out of the book.
1) on 1979 to 1985 mobels:
a) tighten the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs.
b) loosen the adjusting nut untill it can be
turned by hand.
c) retighten the adjusting nut to 35 to 60 in-lbs, then turn the hub two or three times to ensure that it moves smoothly with no play in the bearings.
d) using a spring tension gauge, check for the correct preload (6.2-to-12.6 lbs). If the preload is incorrect, loosen or tighten accordingly.
e) install the lock washer and lock nut.
f) tighten the nut to 58-to-72 ft-lbs.
g) secure the locknut by bending one of the lock washer tabs over the adjusting nut and one over the locknut.
h) reinstall the free wheel or locking hub assembly.
sorry so long but I hope this helps you.The spring gauge you use it pulls on a wheel lug, not on the ratchet handle dont know if you knew this or not so i thought I`d throught it in .


[This message has been edited by snowman6971 (edited December 19, 2001).]
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe our friend Mudrunner owns an '86, which means his job will be even easier (judging from how long it took girlwithtruck who has an axle).

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'86 Toyscrota, currently in too many parts to count.
 

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damm I have to read some more?
mudrunner what year is your truck?

[This message has been edited by snowman6971 (edited December 19, 2001).]
 

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As jasonpen said. (he was with me when I did mine) Very easy job. Parts are cheap. But the socket cost me 26 bucks.

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You havnt been wheeln' till you have been stuck

83 toy, long box, 22r, 35's, locked rear end, prerunner bumper, body work done bye sledge hammer.
 

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ya buy burges socket only 25 bucks but you have a 86 4runner so its prob just as easy as for you burge i am the masta

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81 bronco, 35" mud kings, 6 inch lift , 1 inch body lift,ALARM, cb.
8000lb warn winch.
OH DID I MENSION I HAVE AN alarm!?
 

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OK, well I was talking about replacing the seals behind the knuckles on both tires. Not just the bearings. You have to take out the entire axle to do that, well I did anyway. My mistake.

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'85 4runner, 6' suspension lift and 35' mudders (my baby)
 

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Hey Mudrunner if you need a hand I can help you have big socket for the nut for wheel bearings and the rest of the tools to do the job.let me know if you need help.

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86 4-runner 305,TH350,203,threelink front,6inch skyjacker rear.5.29s,lockers and more to come if I can save the money
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
my runner is an 86, ha callan when are you free? i need my truck asap for driving up and down the ski hill almost every day. in is unsafe to drive with loose bearings right? callan i will get back to you on a time and place, what is good for you?
 

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this should help you.
On 1986 and later mobels:
a) this procedure applies only to vehicles with manual locking hubs.
b) Tighten the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs
c) Loosen the adjusting nut until it can be turned by hand.
d) Using a spring scale attached to one of the lug bolts, measure the frictional dragof the oil seal and record it for later in the procedure. The force required to get the hub to turn (measured on the scale) is the oil seal drag.
e) Retighten the adjusting nut to 18 ft-lbs then install the lock washer and locknut. Tighten the locknut to 33 ft-lbs.
f) Make sure the bearing has no play, then check the preload with the spring scale. Preload is the force required to get the hub to turn. It should be 6.4-to-12.6 ft-bls greater than the oil seal drag. If the preload is not as specified, tighten or loosen the adjusting nut as required.
g) Secure the locknut by bending one of the lock washer tabs over the adjusting nut and one over the locknut.
h) Reinstall the free-wheel or locking hub assembly.
that should do it for you mudrunner.
 

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Saturday would be good will just be hangin around the house recovering from drinking on Friday.Have to work Sunday and not sure about the rest of my shifts for next week.Post here to let me know when.Really can do it any day as long is it is in the morning.

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86 4-runner 305,TH350,203,threelink front,6inch skyjacker rear.5.29s,lockers and more to come if I can save the money
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i just got a new job and i need my truck every day, so i took it to a shop and got it done. the bearings were all rusty,(thats what you get for not regreeseing them for 2 yrs and wheeling every weekend!)so got them done. thanks for all the imput guys. anyone put greese nipples for your bearings? and one for ? u joints in the rear, how hard are they to do? how long can u drive on in, knowing it needs to be replaced? thanx
 

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You can drive on them till they start making an clunking noise and break,but I wouldn't do that.U-joints are really easy to do.

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86 4-runner 305,TH350,203,threelink front,6inch skyjacker rear.5.29s,lockers and more to come if I can save the money
 

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Yeah, U-joints are an easy fix.
Do it now to avoid failure and maybe bending a driveshaft or screwing up the yokes.
Easier in the garage than on the trail or on the side of a muddy road at night in the rain.

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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs,inch body, 35's, detroit locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
u joints done still a nasty squeak! checked the front u joints they are tight, could this possibly be the 2k bill that the ifs is famous for. it would be my first one.
 
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