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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys(and gals) well this morning I start my truck up-Let it warm for about 5 minutes as usual and start to drive down the road-About 5 minutes later I hear a big wack in the engine,smoke everywere and tons of bad noises so I coast back home and turn it off and borrow the parents car to go to work as Iam already late.I come home tonight to discover 2 huge holes on bothsides of the block-tore right threw the oil pan and halfway up the bottom end of the block,about the size of a baseball glove on either side.The thing is the engine had a $4200 rebiuld just over a year ago-The guy I bought it from got it all done. I have all the reciepts which show it has new pistons,rings,,rod etc etc-basically everything is new.I have only put 35,000 kms on it in just over a year. I know this shouldent have happened and I truthfully did not abuse this engine-I took extra care of it cause it was new and I wanted it to last-I would always let it warm up for at least 5 minutes and always had all the fliuds topped up.

The esso shop in Victoria were the ones who did all the work and I believe they should be responsible and cover it under warranty-remember I have all the reciepts showing all the parts and labour.The total was $4128.36 (I know the kid spent alot and it still diden't last)
Iam just wondering what your thoughts are on this and how I should go about dealing with it?
Thanks alot Brett

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85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED-
 

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The single most common reason for a thrown rod in a young engine is failure of the rods bolts.
Incorrect torque during assembly leads to one of the rod nuts loosening off, slowly stretching the other, then BANG, it lets go.
This of course being that everthing else feeding the rod bearing with oil was functioning correctly.
Also as a point of interest and as a mechanic I tell customers not to warm their engines for longer than a minute or so.
The faster that engine can reach operating temp after it has established oil pressure the longer it will live. And not full throttle after starting, easy going until that oil is warm.
Sorry to hear about your engine, tear it down and see if that bearing is starved, if it isn't you better take it up with whomever assembled it.

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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs,1inch body, 35's, detroit locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.
 

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Good luck. Warranties on motors are usually good for 1 year to original owner from my expirence, but can't hurt to check into it.
I feel for you, my 22RE died in November, I replaced it with another and it just died last week.


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broken again

85 4Runner, 35" swampers front, boggers rear, 5.29s + detroits
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info dp-Hopefully Esso will do something to help me-Iam going to talk to them tommorow. Dug sorry to hear about all of your engine trouble-I now know your pain!
Brett
-Any other thoughts?-

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85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED-
 

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who the hell would get there engine rebuilt at ESSO ???????????

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81 bronco, 35" mud kings, 6 inch lift , 1 inch body lift,ALARM, cb.
8000lb warn winch.
OH DID I MENSION I HAVE AN alarm!?
AND THIS TRUCK IS FOR SALE
 

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to get something done right, you have to do it yourself, sorry to hear that. being a pricey rebuild it even sucks more. Make shure you rip someone it will make you feel better.

Also as a point of interest and as a mechanic I tell customers not to warm their engines for longer than a minute or so.
I hope this isnt what you tell them??


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84 xcab shortened 16inches, 3 lift, welded rear, 24$ paint, flatbed
 

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Yes, Jimmyj, thats what I tell them.
This is of special importance to those running high horse bike mills. But it applies to all engines.
When cold, that oil isn't flowing or lubricating near as well as when at operating temp.
If you start your engine and leave it running for ten minutes , it is basically sitting there grinding away on itself. The oil is being contaminated with unburnt combustion products, not to mention moisture.
Ever see that white/brown foam on your oil fill cap ? Thats a bearing killer. If you have to run your engine for extended periods or time you must change oil frequently.
It can take 20 minutes of highway running to bring a cold engine to operating temp.
If you start it up, let it build oil pressure,and if running smoothly, drive away.
Not at full throttle, just easy till it's warm.
The only engines I'm aware of that need extended idle time are 2-stroke snowmobile engines. But these engines are built with loose clearances in mind. Those pistons cope with high loads in freezing conditions. Running them at high RPM can result in a "cold" seize if the engine isn't brought up to operating temp.
Almost all engine wear occurs on start up and in the time it takes to get that engine up to operating temp.


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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs,1inch body, 35's, detroit locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
YupI dont know what the guy was thinking getting it done at Esso but oh well. Usally I let my engine warm up for just a few minutes before I drive cause I never knew it was bad to let an engine over-warm.Iam going to talk tomm morning and if i don't get what I want I may look into a 350 chev-Hopefully they'll do something otherwise I'll tell everyone how horrible they are at building anything.
Brett
Any info on a 350 swap would be great-THANKS

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85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED-
 

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My buddy is doing a SBC swap on his 82 mini.
He's just getting started so we will let you know how it goes. So far he figures the rad is going to the bed !
He also has a 22R for sale.
Please don't take my comments about warming an engine to mean start up and VROOOOM.
An idling engine will need a lot of time to get to temp. On most cars the fan will kick in long before the oil in the sump is ready for action.
So please warm up your engine, it just doesn't need as long an idle until driven.
Synthetic lubes flow much better than conventional oil at start up.
If I could afford the 8 litres my cruiser needs for an oil change, I'd run them.

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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs,1inch body, 35's, detroit locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
dp-I knew what you meant to do with the engine, thanks for all the info.
Also does it seem normal for the engine block to blow apart on both sides?-I have only ever heard of one side of the block exploding and not both at the same time.
Any suggestions for a new engine-Iam thinking a 22r with a few performance parts in it-Anyone selling a beefed up engine?Or any engine for that matter?
Thanks for all the help guys
Brett

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85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED-
 

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If you need an engine my friend Jon will sell his complete and running 22R for $300. It has 168 000 km's and came out of an 83 2wd I had.
And yes , blocks can be holed on both sides.
Usually the loose rod end whacks one side and the crack throws the rod cap through the other.
I've seen 4cyl cranks break and send their respective rods through both sides of the block.
Sometimes the rod or rod cap will get smashed into the bottom of the block by the crank. This destroys the whole works of course.
Your block is probably no longer suitable for rebuilding, but after the post-mortem, put your findings up.

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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs,1inch body, 35's, detroit locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.
 

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about the warming of the engine but please correct me if im wrong, but doesnt the oil pump distrubite the oil through out the oil galleries in a matter of 30 seconds, shure if your oil is frozen, it aint gonna flow right. but that why we run 5w-30 in the winter. As well as the crank dipping into the oil, creating the spashing effect. Im not saying get in your vehicle and rroomm, im saying you should allow your vehicle to warm up, get those windows defrosted so you can see, thats all.
oh ps, you should give esso your block and say thanks! Look whut your gas did to my engine!

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84 xcab shortened 16inches, 3 lift, welded rear, 24$ paint, flatbed
 

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Yes, the oil pump is supposed to circulate the oil. But it really doesn't do a whole lot until the oil warms .
As an experiment I once took a chevy 6cyl and a toyota 2F out into the cold. And I'm talking about -35 praire weather here.
I took the rocker covers off the both of them and was horrified that it took about 3 minutes for the chevy to start flowing up top.
The toyota took over 4 minutes before oil started flying around !
Now I wonder how engines last as long as they do.
Take some 5w outside one night. If it gets -30 where you are, put a spoon in it. Now imagine an oil pump trying to suck that up.
Seems pretty far fetched indeed.

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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs,1inch body, 35's, detroit locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So esso is saying that if they had done something wrong while building the engine(not tightened the piston rods correctly) then the engine would have blown a long time before now-BUT I CALL BULLSHIT!.So basically Iam on my own with the engine-Anyone know of a good 22r for sale?
But dont worry I will NOW spend every spare minute of my time trying to bring down the esso corporation-hahahahahahahahahaha
Any leads on a good engine or a place to find one would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Brett

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85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED


[This message has been edited by TOY CAPTAIN (edited January 03, 2002).]
 

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But Jon's 22R. It's a good engine.
$250 would probably get it, I sold it to him a couple years ago a can verify its condition if you want.
Shipping would be about 60 bucks.

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75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs,1inch body, 35's, detroit locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
dp-
Please give me some details on this engine
(km's,any mods, condition etcetc) cause Iam definetly interested and I need one right away!
Thanks Alot Brett


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85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED-
 

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Step 1: Go to a local sign shop and have a fairly large cardboard sign made that says "Anyone who is stupid enough to have their car worked on here deserves the shitty work that they will get." Step 2: Apply to Esso shop exterior


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'86 Toyscrota, currently in too many parts to count.
"Pushing the limits of duct tape and zap straps every day."
 

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this is the jon that dp speaks of he is right .$250 plus shipping will take it. it has around 160000km's on it doesn't smoke, runs good and strong I swapped it in from a 2wd 2 years ago hoping it would quell my power problems. replacing the 20r with the 22r was one of the best things I did but I am greedy and want more breakage so I am swapping in a chev 350.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
pumkinmobile-
I want to buy your engine I just would like to make sure everything is ok with it first-its not that I dont trust you but Iam buying something from sask and there is no warranty or anything and sask is a long ways away.
So does it burn any oil? or leak anything?
Could you do a compression check?
Iam going to be throwing a cam and header in it right away and maybe a few other goodies to increase the power along with new spark plugs etc etc-do you have any extra parts like these? I will have alot of spare parts from mine so i dont need anything stock.
Thanks Alot and hope to hear back from you soon!-Brett

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85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED-
 
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