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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Submitting this for my buddy Russ.....Russ wants to install a 3" body lift on an 84 Ford 4x4 that already has a 4" susp. lift. Any hurdles or pointers that he should watch out for? Thanks in advance for the info.
 

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I would go with a 2" body lift, the height of the blocks vs. their width/diameter can pose a safety concern if you were to drive into something hard, it increases the risk of breaking the mounts going with the taller 3" blocks. If he needs added clearance for larger tires he should consider trimming the fenderwells and keeping a lower stance for stability in a short wheel base...
 
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My 2 cents, don't use an off the shelf body lift kit ( graphite block, the blocks are even smaller dia. than the body mounts) go to Industrial Plastic's & get some of their 3" dia. White self lubing plastic (don't remember the exact name of the stuff)Just cut in chop saw, drill & you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. Anyone have any experience with what will have to be done in the way of stretching brake hard lines, lowering the rad, extending fuel filler hose, etc?

Thx again
 

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garth vader said:
Thanks guys. Anyone have any experience with what will have to be done in the way of stretching brake hard lines, lowering the rad, extending fuel filler hose, etc?

Thx again
Exactly the reason why I wouldn't bother, too much hassle extending this and that and moving your rad, and building new fan shroud, and fixing filler neck...a susp lift is so much easier, or better yet, just start trimming fenders!
 

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Body lifts are for big drive train, Suspension lifts are for big flex and hieght, Sawzall is for big tires :D :D
 
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Body lifts are easy, for the rad shoud, either cut out the bottom, or lower it & attach the top with flat bar. steering shaft, either heat up to melt the plastic 'pins', or drill them out. brake lines off the master cyl. just stretch them. Rear hard line , cut the metal bracket & add a piece of flat bar. gas filler hose, undo the hose clamp that holds it to the body!!, T/C shifter, make the floor hole longer front to back, Auto trans, cut the shift rod (column to trans) & add a piece of rod. Speedo cable & wireing just watch & stretch as needed. Bumpers you can leave (looks awful) or make new brackets, or better yet make new bush bumpers.
 

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body lift

I have just finished putting in a 3" body lift in a 1980 F250 and I was just wondering if the steering shaft angle is a little excessive ? Do I have to lower the steering colum ? Does anyone have any experience with this . is the angle or amount the shaft has to slide out a weak link in any way? Any insight into this would be appreciated
thanks KIP
 

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Rogue Bronco said:
Body lifts are for big drive train, Suspension lifts are for big flex and hieght, Sawzall is for big tires :D :D
Exactly...if you cant fit the NV5600 in your truck go with the body lift, if you just want to go with larger tires, don't waste your time start cutting sheet metal!:*******
 

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desteurm said:
if you cant fit the NV5600
Don't waste your time, start cutting sheet metal!

Body lifts are the devil, and they're ugly too.
 

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body lifts are alright if you knoiw what you are doing it is alot of work to do it right and keep saftey in check..
I used solid 4"x4" steel channel with 3/8 wall thickness pluss added 4 more mounts under cab as well as 4 more under box
Beefy yes safe yes and swaped in grade 8 fasteners for all mounts with 1/2" bolts x 9" grade8 nc all with lock washers and thread locker
Over kill maybe but my frame was also boxed and reinforced in 4 spots with 3/8 flat bar.
So be wary of cheap aftermarket brand name lifts nothing compares to good old engineering:canadian :******* :welder
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks to all who submitted advice. I'll forward this to Russ and let him decide.
 
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