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What is the adverage cost of machining a D44 flattop knuckle (machining flat, bore and tap 3 stud holes), what shop did you go to, and the going rate for a set of D44 flattop knuckles.
 

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was the 126 including rotating the knuckles and cutting axles? or just machining them flat? There is a shop(can't remember the name offhand) Right outside bellingham that says they will do it and cut your axles down 4(if you need it like I do for my toy) 150 USD it might be extra to machine the knuckles but 4 the other part of it thats cheap as hell.
Where did you pick up your flat topers? I think that I have the regular ones on my dana, but maybe someone could confirm 4 me?
heres a pic tell me if you need a better shot.

 

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Those don't look like Flat tops. They are pretty easy to find though. I even saw a pair at the dump last weekend. Stay away form ford or dodge ones, just get the chevy ones from a pre 1978 1/2 or 3/4 LD Pickup. I got mine off of a '73 blazer with calipers, caliper brackets and a spindle for $75. Then it was 126 just to have the bare knuckle machined, drilled and tapped.

$250 US for highsteer arms
$200 for new ball joints
$200 Tie rod ends
$250 rebuilt calipers, new pads & rotors
$275 to have tie rod and drag link built out of 1.25" solid DOM
$200 for taps and reamers

Hysteer was a lot of $
 

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they will do it and cut your axles down 4(if you need it like I do for my toy) 150 USD
Wow, that is cheap for cutting down and resplining an axle, especially if it includes machining the knuckles. Just make sure it's a cut, respline and harden not a cut and weld :eek: . Billygoat found out the hard way with his Bronco II SAS this isn't the preferable method... :D Can you say broken inner on Hamburger Hill (broke 3 other peoples birfs trying to get him out of there at TJ 2002 on the island).

I've seen the knuckles done for about $100 - 150 Canuck bucks up here.
 

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reason for flat top knuckle's is to do high steer convertion correct? do full size jeep(FSJ) front D44 knuckles not fit on other D44's? D44 in my '83 J-10 is high steer and I would assume most other FSJ's would be the same. just something to ponder if they fit and you can get them
 

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Shogunator said:

Wow, that is cheap for cutting down and resplining an axle, especially if it includes machining the knuckles. Just make sure it's a cut, respline and harden not a cut and weld :eek: . Billygoat found out the hard way with his Bronco II SAS this isn't the preferable method... :D Can you say broken inner on Hamburger Hill (broke 3 other peoples birfs trying to get him out of there at TJ 2002 on the island).

I've seen the knuckles done for about $100 - 150 Canuck bucks up here.
Interesting to hear about all the respline out fits. I hear that some of the "respliners" don't harden the shafts. I know of a place out in Enderby called CNC machine that will reharden and they do a better job than the other fellas on Annicis Island.

Just to clarify the welded axle breakage on my BII... Yes the axle broke at the weld. But in this circumstance it proved benificial. The new ujoint (defective) busted completely and blew out the yoke causing it to completely bind in the wrist. (lotssa blued metal and cracked wrist) The locker forced the axle to turn and :( the weld gave out. ;) In this case the Welded axle Saved me potentially up to a grand $ in front diff parts which surely would have blown apart with the strain of a unwelded shaft. NOW I've installed fusible hub clutches in and this will prevent most ujoint related breakage from happening. NOT to say a welded axle is the answer. I didn't like it when I put them in even though I hear some race cars use welded axles. But you do what your budget has available. I'm still trying to find another axle shaft to respline.
 

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Billy Goat said:

Interesting to hear about all the respline out fits. I hear that some of the "respliners" don't harden the shafts. I know of a place out in Enderby called CNC machine that will reharden and they do a better job than the other fellas on Annicis Island.
When I was working in the machine shop we used this shop in Enderby to induction harden the bearing races and splines on the drive flanges for Canadian National Railway. They did an awesome job and met the specifications from CN to a "T".

Matt
 

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NOYFB said:
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$250 US for highsteer arms
$200 for new ball joints
$200 Tie rod ends
$250 rebuilt calipers, new pads & rotors
$275 to have tie rod and drag link built out of 1.25" solid DOM
$200 for taps and reamers

Hysteer was a lot of $
Man don't list prices like that your going to scare me away from my SAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111111
 

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