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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i was driving to the tim hortons this morning and it died. I pulled over, opened up the hood, looking for anything standing out, did the cursory wiggle test on everything, and it started up, made it to timmy's then died and won't start. I did a KOEO and i get code 31, the 18 from the second set of codes. I suspect i know what 18 is, and not too worried, ill deal with EVP stuff later, probably why it was running rich. But the code 31 I suspect is why it wont start anymore. From my quick reading at the gas station it sounds like it could be the SPOUT grounded out causing the issue. I tried disconnecting the SPOUT to see if it would start and nothing. Also when i turn the key on, my reverse lights come on. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Warren
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Correction, i think its the code 18 causing the issue, the 31 is the EVP stuff, and would explain the rough idle but no the no start condition. My bad.

Warrren
 

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Hey-

I looked up the code 18 and this is what I found:

18 - SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure

I've gotten this on a couple of my rigs, with similar issues to what you have. Both times, it was the wires going into the distributor had worn through the little rubber gasket thing where they go through the base of the distributor, and would short out.

I think the reverse lights are a different issue. Sounds like a bad reverse light switch. It's probably one of those things that you noticed because you started looking around at all sorts of stuff because something major went wrong and now you're looking for stuff and you're findthing things that've been bad for awhile. I have _so_ been there... <grin>
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey-

I looked up the code 18 and this is what I found:

18 - SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure

I've gotten this on a couple of my rigs, with similar issues to what you have. Both times, it was the wires going into the distributor had worn through the little rubber gasket thing where they go through the base of the distributor, and would short out.

I think the reverse lights are a different issue. Sounds like a bad reverse light switch. It's probably one of those things that you noticed because you started looking around at all sorts of stuff because something major went wrong and now you're looking for stuff and you're findthing things that've been bad for awhile. I have _so_ been there... <grin>
Ya that's what i found. i tried disconnecting the SPOUT, no change. I suspect its the wiring harness, or maybe the TFI itself. Had it towed home :( will take a look tonight after work. LOL. On another note, the blower fan for the heater wasn't working today all of a sudden, i checked and the fuse was welded through the plastic, i replaced and the fan works again, makes me wonder if some water got in somewhere, or another short somewhere causing the issue....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey-

I looked up the code 18 and this is what I found:

18 - SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure

I've gotten this on a couple of my rigs, with similar issues to what you have. Both times, it was the wires going into the distributor had worn through the little rubber gasket thing where they go through the base of the distributor, and would short out.

I think the reverse lights are a different issue. Sounds like a bad reverse light switch. It's probably one of those things that you noticed because you started looking around at all sorts of stuff because something major went wrong and now you're looking for stuff and you're findthing things that've been bad for awhile. I have _so_ been there... <grin>
Would a fried ECT or wire connecting it cause a no-start? i checked today, and the rubber connector is cracked, and the ECT wire came off in my hand. i f**ked with it, and it did start again to get to timmy's then died again, and couldn't get it started. could it be that easy? can i just replace that with any old ring style female connector, and dielectric the piss outta it?
 

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Regardless, I'd sure fix the ECT wire. Coolant temp is the way the computer reads if the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. Your proposed fix would work. (Just a note: Personally, I find I use a lot of the liquid electrical tape stuff on things to waterproof them.) Since the ECT sensor works off of resistance, the cleaner your connections and joints in the wiring, the more accurate it'll read.

The SPOUT connector only disables/enables the computer controlled spark advance. The EEC4 code reporting isn't perfect, it just points you to an area to start looking. If one of the other wires in that rubber grommet are shorting out, you'll still get the SPOUT error.

On the 351 in my previous Bronco, all I could see externally was a crack in the rubber just like you mentioned, but it was still shorting out intermittently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Regardless, I'd sure fix the ECT wire. Coolant temp is the way the computer reads if the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. Your proposed fix would work. (Just a note: Personally, I find I use a lot of the liquid electrical tape stuff on things to waterproof them.) Since the ECT sensor works off of resistance, the cleaner your connections and joints in the wiring, the more accurate it'll read.

The SPOUT connector only disables/enables the computer controlled spark advance. The EEC4 code reporting isn't perfect, it just points you to an area to start looking. If one of the other wires in that rubber grommet are shorting out, you'll still get the SPOUT error.

On the 351 in my previous Bronco, all I could see externally was a crack in the rubber just like you mentioned, but it was still shorting out intermittently.
Naw the crack was on the ECT wire, not the TFI plug. i just tried stripping and wrapping for a quick test still no start. im reasonably sure its on the ignition side of things though. ill have to do a full TFI/IDM/ignition module test, thinking ignition module but we'll see i guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What do you use to test the wiring on the TFI connector? its totally sealed, do you just use a pin or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well spent a few hours tracing and testing stuff last night. FOund a few spots where there were wire junctions for the resistors in the harness, that the original splice connections had rotted and were falling off, i unwrapped and cleaned up the harness, liquid e-taped, then e-taped all the spots, re-wrapped the harness, still no love. I have 12V on the host side of the ignition coil, and 1V on the cold side without it plugged into the ignition coil When its plugged in im getting 12v to both sides when key on, but not running (it doesn't currently) or starting. If i don't have it connected to the coil i get approx 5v when cranking over on the cold (negative) pole of the coil. I suspect i have another dead short somewhere, as when i turn the key on, the reverse lights turn on immediately. I pulled the fuse and checked, they dont come on now. I'm also not hearing the fuel pump wind up when i turn the key on. Thinking somewhere between the engine compartment and back of the vehicle i must have a short.. Can anyone confirm where the reverse lights are controlled, is that fron the tranny through the EEC? Thanks for any assistance. I also pulled the fuel pump relay while i was there, and cheecked it by applying power to the control connections, and i can hear it clicking, so it is working. Im guessing EEC relay, or burned EEC? Hopefully someone has some insight, if not more troubleshooting and tracing tonight hehe.

Thanks
Warrren
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well more troubleshooting today. Found a really good TFI diagnostics guide @ http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html For Bronco II's etc, but close enough. Tested Power to TFI, it was good, not sure if the wiring i cleaned up helped, but still never a bad idea either :). Pulled the TFI and everything but the GRD->PIP-IN test checked out with the volt meter, that circuit is totally open, no resistence. Guess I'm off to get it double checked and probably buying a new one. Crappy tire the best place to get a TFI module checked, or can Lordco?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well finally had some time to get back to it. Replaced the TFI module, and ITS ALIVE....almost LOL. I set the timing, and seafoamed the upper intake tract through the vacuum line... neighbors came running from the smoke cloud LOL. But its still missing at higher revs, and stalled on my test drive. I took it home, started and started wiggling the harnesss, and it died again. I was able to trace it all the way back to the tfi plug, if i wiggle the wires in it, its killing the engine. Where do i find another TFI connector, at a junkyard i guess? Guess this makes a good time to do the remote relocation, as it looks like i'm fixing the connector anyways heh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well got lazy, just butt spliced a new TFI connector in, and she's good to go, also had a bit of a coolant leak, so decided to do upper, lower, bypass hoses and a new thermostat, realized it had a 195 deg stat in it too, bolted all back together with a new fan clutch, and she's purring, just a new IAC and its looking good :). Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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