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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hear that I am unable to drain all my tranny oil in my 5 spd myself and should get a "shop" to properly flush my tranny of the old oil. Is this true? If not how could I successfully drain my tranny as I wish to go synthetic?


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Pony
90 4Runner 22RE 3" Body Lift 33's
And cool looking, inexpensive fender flares thanks to Greg's tip :)

"Nobody realizes that some people
expend tremendous energy
merely to be normal." ~ Albert Camus
 

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that is untrue,(that would be true if you had an auto tranny...) simply drain it when hot
by unbolting the drainplug, let it sit while you have lunch/have a coffee, the n put it back in and filler up again with synthetic

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i didnt break it, i was just testing its durability

83 toyota SB/89 efi/8.5" lift/5:29+elocker/33x12.5/centerforceIII/American Racing rims/smittys front and rear/89 4runner seats lots of chrome and a flexible rear window
 

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While on the topic, has anyone found a good pump for replacing tranny/diff/etc. oil. The only ones I have used leak everywhere, I ended up using an old Mustard bottle the last time, work well but took quite a while.

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86 4-Runner STILL stock
 

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Here is what I used to fill dif.Took an small gear oil bottle cut pointed tip down a bit,then cut hole in side so I could fill with another container.Then proped with jack stand into dif fill hole and filled bottle with other container as much as I could.Did this a couple of times and thats it.Maybe give it an try and see what you think.

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"Born and Bred To Rip and Shred"
 

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I find it easier to pump gear oil when the oil is warmed up. I throw the containers of new oil into a bucket of hot water and let it sit while I drain the oil out of the diffs/tranny.


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1986 Toy pickup
Locked, geared, winched and EFI converted
 

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On my 4-runner, I just took off the shifter assembly at the top of the trans, left the fill/check plug open and poured it in the top until it started draining out the fill/check plug

Right now I have GL5 in there, but the manual calls for GL4. What's the difference? (I can't find any GL4 in town)


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88 4runner, 22RE with some minor stuff done to it
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hear that the GL4 isn't as "Slick" as the GL5, this aids the Syncros to grip enough to do their job. I hear that Chevron makes a good additive for syncros that is a bit pricey but worth it. I plan on putting the GL4 in the tranny and Xfer while putting GL5 in the diffs.

Which brand is prefered or good enough? rather not argue which is "THE BEST" - almost the best will do for me


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Pony
90 4Runner 22RE 3" Body Lift 33's
And cool looking, inexpensive fender flares thanks to Greg's tip :)

"Nobody realizes that some people
expend tremendous energy
merely to be normal." ~ Albert Camus
 

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check your local parts store... might cost a few bills but will solve the hedache problem...i've got the one that fits the 5gal bucket and i'll cherish the thing forever... no more gear oil running down the arms... a few minuts and i can change all the fluids in my toy...now...only if i could solve the mistery of the universe...


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82 toyota,3"body lift,7"spring lift,full size dana 44 front,12 bolt-stock locker rear,35"tires,custom everything...
 

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when topping off my diffs/tranny i usually put a piece o tubing onto the end of the bottles, and heatig the bottles really works well too!

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i didnt break it, i was just testing its durability

83 toyota SB/89 efi/8.5" lift/5:29+elocker/33x12.5/centerforceIII/American Racing rims/smittys front and rear/89 4runner seats lots of chrome and a flexible rear window
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If I go the expense of changing my diffs,OL5 xfer OL4 and tranny OL4 to synthetic Mobile 1 then how often would I have to change this oil? I am using diff breather extenders to keep out the water.


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Pony
90 4Runner 22RE 3" Body Lift 33's
And cool looking, inexpensive fender flares thanks to Greg's tip :)

"Nobody realizes that some people
expend tremendous energy
merely to be normal." ~ Albert Camus
 

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I use Mobil-1 and drain the diffs, tranny and t-case every 25K miles.

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1986 Toy pickup
Locked, geared, winched and EFI converted
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by ArnoldAldos:
I use Mobil-1 and drain the diffs, tranny and t-case every 25K miles.


Do you find it shifts smoother? I have a hard time with a stiff shifter, especially first and reverse, I am hoping synthetics will help this.


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Pony
90 4Runner 22RE 3" Body Lift 33's
And cool looking, inexpensive fender flares thanks to Greg's tip :)

"Nobody realizes that some people
expend tremendous energy
merely to be normal." ~ Albert Camus
 

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If you want it to shift smoother, try Redline MTL. I switched over to Mobil-1 'cuz it's cheaper and readily available at the parts store. The Redline stuff costs $13 US a quart and that doesn't include shipping since non of my local parts stores carry it. It made shifting the tranny a lot easier, especially on cold winter mornings. I can't afford the stuff now that I'm going to school.

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1986 Toy pickup
Locked, geared, winched and EFI converted
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cool That settles it I am switching to Mobile 1 for my drivetrain, can't afford Redline either.

A side note, since I have 300K on my 22RE should I just leave it with the Dinosaur Oil sinces the seals, gaskets etc are used to it or should I switch and introduce a new chemical"ed" oil to that motor. At 300K it owes me nothing but if I can prolong the enevitable "Boom" would switching that engine to synthetics really make a difference?

BTW don't mean to start a huge debate here


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Pony
90 4Runner 22RE 3" Body Lift 33's
And cool looking, inexpensive fender flares thanks to Greg's tip :)

"Nobody realizes that some people
expend tremendous energy
merely to be normal." ~ Albert Camus
 

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Mopac on Kingway sells Redline products. No need to go to the expense of ordering from the states.

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If it does'nt fit... wiggle it a bit
 

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The only GL-4 oil I have been able to find is the motomaster synthetic blend. There is a very noticeable improvement in shifting when I switched to this oil over the conventional stuff.

With regards to your motor oil question, if you get a good quality synthetic it will not leak past your old seals. I would suggest somehting like Mobil 1 synthetic.
 

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300 000 k? any leaks etc? id probabally run 20w50 at that point, ill give you better life on your worn bearings adn keep the oil psi up
also itll help w / slow leaks.

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i didnt break it, i was just testing its durability

83 toyota SB/89 efi/8.5" lift/5:29+elocker/33x12.5/centerforceIII/American Racing rims/smittys front and rear/89 4runner seats lots of chrome and a flexible rear window
 
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