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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The e-brake on my truck doesn't work at all. I have 35" on it, so the tires are really heavy, will keeping it in gear to park wear out my tranny? Or should I get the e-brake fixed asap?

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'85 4runner, 6' suspension lift and 35' mudders (my baby)
 

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Putting the tranny in gear when you park will not harm it at all. It's a good idea to always do this, so your truck won't roll away if the parking brake fails.

Having said that, you should get your parking brake fixed. Chances are good all it needs is some adjusting, which is an easy job, no disassembly required.

Keep in mind, a non-working parking brake will give you an instant fail if you ever have to get your truck inspected.

Chris

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See my Jeep's website:
www.bc4x4.com/chrisw
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanx for the info, I will adjust this weekend then.

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'85 4runner, 6' suspension lift and 35' mudders (my baby)
 

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Superfly
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If you do any mudding at all with a Toyota you will curse the rear drum brakes. They have to be cleaned out and adjusted after any trip if you see mud in order to keep the parking brake working.
 

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Originally posted by Wil:
If you do any mudding at all with a Toyota you will curse the rear drum brakes. They have to be cleaned out and adjusted after any trip if you see mud in order to keep the parking brake working.

Is that the same for a YJ with rear drums?



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Play hard + Rest easy
Drive a Jeep--'92 YJ
Option...Black Nite
 

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hmm. I have gone mudding lots and mine still works. Is it a wear thing? Or is it just a god idea to do it everytime?

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93' x-tra cab. I hate my IFS. Ya I know your rig is better than mine.
 

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Is that the same for a YJ with rear drums?
I don't think the YJ rear brakes were ever designed to even work! No matter what I did to mine, they barely grabbed, and I'd never trust them to hold me on a hill.
HUGE improvement with my D44 swap.
 

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Doug I don't think has quite the same set up. There could be a couple of problems. The levers that go into the backing plate freeze. So no matter how hard you pull on the handle it doesn't even move the shoes. Even if one is frozen you'll have the same problem. This is very common. The adjustment helps. It's just a crappy system all around.

I was thinking of using a line lock on the trail. I came up with an easy solution though. I use a brake pedal depressor for doing wheel alignments. Locks up all four, good. Changed a tire once on a rocky slope and didn't worry about the truck moving.

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A nonsmokin' 81 powered
83 longbox.
Pole vault over it.
 

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Is that the same for a YJ with rear drums?
I don't think the YJ rear brakes were ever designed to even work! No matter what I did to mine, they barely grabbed, and I'd never trust them to hold me on a hill.
HUGE improvement with my D44 swap.

Are you still drum in the rear with the d44?
 

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Superfly
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On my old '81 the drums always filled up with mud and sand. I'm not sure if it's different on the newer axles or not Doug. As soon as the mud got packed in there and drive it on the street, the brakes went out of adjustment. Rear disc brakes was a great addition.
 

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Just think what I go through. I have drum brakes on all 4 corners. I really must do something about that


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1974 Dodge W100 Power Wagon
Looks beaten up but it's fun.
Slowly becoming less original, 31" tires, 360 2bbl V8, TF727 3 speed auto, NP205 T-case Dana 44 front, Chrysler 8 3/4" rear with detroit locker

[This message has been edited by Jarett (edited November 13, 2001).]
 

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Jarret, 4 wheel drums are a death trap. My buddy has a 69 chevelle with a seriously hopped up 350. Ladder bar suspension, racing 3 speed etc. 4 wheel drums on the damned thing. It's a bloody death trap. I'll go for rips in it once in a while, he'll get up to 140 in a blink of an eye, trying to stop he has to fight the wheel the whole time. terrible stopping distance. I told him I refuse to ride in it untill he gets front discs. I wouldn't trust them to hold me on a hill on the trail.

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93' x-tra cab. I hate my IFS. Ya I know your rig is better than mine.
 

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Originally posted by Doug:
Jarret, 4 wheel drums are a death trap. My buddy has a 69 chevelle with a seriously hopped up 350. Ladder bar suspension, racing 3 speed etc. 4 wheel drums on the damned thing. It's a bloody death trap. I'll go for rips in it once in a while, he'll get up to 140 in a blink of an eye, trying to stop he has to fight the wheel the whole time. terrible stopping distance. I told him I refuse to ride in it untill he gets front discs. I wouldn't trust them to hold me on a hill on the trail.

hehe....They usually hold me back on the hills, except for when they heat up after about 50 feet of downhill
. Your friend is completely insane(or possibly a little stupid, not trying to be insulting) to have that kind of performance and only drum brakes. Does he have a death wish? At least my truck is still stock for power. I find that if I hit the brakes they stop me quicker than the brakes on my car(disc). I have no problem locking all 4 wheels on the truck, as long as the brakes aren't too hot. The main problem I have with them is when I am going quickly down gravel and service roads, they tend to unadjust themselves. I have been looking at doing a disc conversion, but recently discovered som unimog axles for sale, that would be really nice to put under my truck. Unfurtunately they have drums as well
, but my friend that has a mog sayes he has never noticed any brake fade from heating the drums up. They are [email protected]#ing huge drums on those things. I would get a lift and better aslxe out of that swap


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1974 Dodge W100 Power Wagon
Looks beaten up but it's fun.
Slowly becoming less original, 31" tires, 360 2bbl V8, TF727 3 speed auto, NP205 T-case Dana 44 front, Chrysler 8 3/4" rear with detroit locker
 

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drums are actually better for stopping.... at least for the initial time you apply them, after that they suck cause they heat up. discs are work better because they have easier and faster cooling


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the pages of my life, http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/edges
 

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hey, watch this!!!
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MOG AXLES!!!
thats the stuff... only problem with them is that u have to use 20 " rims. dubs...
anyways, trying to find tires for this size of rim is near impossible. your only source is millitary stuff or dumptruck tires.

if you can get it set up youll have one sweet mutha f set up, mega ground clearance and fat gearing....something like 9:1 once the hubs and diffs are factored in. PLus, get cable actuated lockers,(swee S-T hit)

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i didnt break it, i was just testing its durability
 

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Originally posted by gumbom:
MOG AXLES!!!
thats the stuff... only problem with them is that u have to use 20 " rims. dubs...
anyways, trying to find tires for this size of rim is near impossible. your only source is millitary stuff or dumptruck tires.

if you can get it set up youll have one sweet mutha f set up, mega ground clearance and fat gearing....something like 9:1 once the hubs and diffs are factored in. PLus, get cable actuated lockers,(swee S-T hit)

I found a place on the island, that does mog axles. you have many choices with them. They can convert them to standard toy or Spicer Pinion, original drums with bolt pattern conversion to take 16.5" rims 6 on 5.5" bolt patern, and also convert to disc brakes and 8 on 6.5" bolt pattern.


I'm waiting for some pricing right now, and then I will decide which I want.

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1974 Dodge W100 Power Wagon
Looks beaten up but it's fun.
Slowly becoming less original, 31" tires, 360 2bbl V8, TF727 3 speed auto, NP205 T-case Dana 44 front, Chrysler 8 3/4" rear with detroit locker
 

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[/QUOTE]
I don't think the YJ rear brakes were ever designed to even work! No matter what I did to mine, they barely grabbed, and I'd never trust them to hold me on a hill.
HUGE improvement with my D44 swap.[/B][/QUOTE]

I got a '92 YJ and had the self adjusting cable brake on the right rear...so I took it to have the brakes and hardwear replace (didn't know anything about drum brakes at the time). After forking out all that money my parking brake as well as my rear brakes started to fade in performance...so I broke down my drum brakes and studied how they worked till I figured them out...didn't take to long though...come to find out that the brake guy put the wrong self adjusting cable on and only replace a couple of spings...so I bought brake hardware kits for both sides and replaced everything...making sure that the self adjusting cable was the correct length...now my brakes work better than ever...!Make sure that your self adjusting screws haven't seized up...this will pretty much cause your rear brakes to be useless.
I've tested them on several steep hills and have no problems since!


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92 YJ 31" BFG's MT, 15x8" American Racing wheels, K&N filter.

[This message has been edited by The Jeepster (edited January 01, 2002).]
 
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