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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, i'm sick of getting my 2wd(is that counted as cursing?) truck stuck at the bottom of rocky hills!! am now in the market for a solid axle toyota 4x4 PU. would prefer long box but would also look at xtra cab. what are some things i should be looking for. ie common rust spots, +/- of certain trucks, common mechanical problems.
i've heard frames can be rusty and crack in certain areas. where do they crack and is it as easy as welding a plate over-top?

any info to help me in my search would be appreciated!!!!!
 

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I am sure you have probably notice, on older Toys, the box rusts out really badly,. the other place for rust is the frame. They usually rust worst behind the cab, but can be bad anywhere. Take a hamer and bang the frame(both sides for the whole length) before you decide to buy the truck. Welding a new piece of metal on the frame can be done, but it must be done by a certified welder to be street legal. If a VI shop sees that the frame has been welded you will have to show them the papers or you will fail. the engines in them are great if they are maintained. I was told that they (22R, 22RE) are rated for 500,000 km if they are well mantained.

As for years, 1985 is the last year for solid axle and the first year for fuel injection. Anything older will be carbureted.
 

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toyota frames usually rust out mostly in the rear above the wheel. But just because the frame looks good under the cab doesnt mean it is so make sure you check the WHOLE frame. In my opinion its best to buy a completely stock truck since you will be the first one beating on it :). Theyres a few 85's in the buy and sell for 1800-2500 so i would look at that. Saves you money since you get solid axle and fuel injection.
 

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It may take a while to find but DEFINETLY get fuel injection and a solid axle if you plan on wheeling it at all, now or at some point in the future. I definetly support the idea of buying a stock truck they are almost always in better condition drivetrain wise than a lifted truck.

Forget body rust completely, as they almost all have a bit, if not alot. As these guys said, get right under there with a hammer and a punch and give 'er in every possible place you can get that punch. Generally the frames don't rust TOO bad under the cab, it's more under the box where the real cancer hides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i phoned a guy about a 85 4x4 pu. it is carburated and he said fuel inj was intro'd half way through the year. is he right or am i dealing with an engine swap?
it makes sense to buy stock since should not be abused wheelin. what sort of cost am i looking at to take a stocker and put on 33's with a mild lift, susp or body, facturing in fender trimming ect. is a used lift an option?
have heard pre 84's can only handle up to 3" lift do to shorter trans. what tire size could i fit with that lift?

any info is useful and appreciated!!!!!!
 

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forget that stuff about only getting 3" of lift. Some guys on here have 10"plus on theyre toys. To get a set of used 33's that are still 80% or plus ur prolly lookin at about 6-800$$. Used locker will be around 350. Lifts vary. if you decide to just use blocks (dont) it will be really cheap. If you decide to go all out and buy a lift kit with shocks and all it can add up. Or there is cheap swaps wich work VERY good like the chevy leaf swap or the mazda swap. Those give you about 3" of lift and lotsa flex :). Then if you want bumpers and all you can either make them urself or buy them for crazy prices. uummm yeah i prolly left a buncha stuff out but im tired....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hey, thanks for the info
10" of lift would be nice, but unfortunately im on a budget. only have around 3000 to play with, so am trying to figure out my best combination of reliability and trail ability.
can anyone tell me if there was a split between carb and inj for 85? im looking at that truck tommorrow morn and want to know what i am dealing with.
 

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If I recall correctly in 85 there were only 2 types of Toyota 4x4 pickup available. Extracabs and std cab longbeds. I believe in 85 all of the Extracabs were SR5's and fuel injected and the std cab long beds were carburated. In the 84 model year fuel injection wasn't available.

I don't think there was an 85 std cab shortbed available in Canada but it was available in the USA.

This is from a foggy memory so I could be wrong.
 

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1984 was the first year for EFI. That's documented in my 1984 pickup factory service manual, plus Bigbird's 1984 4Runner has EFI (the ONLY 1984 I've seen with EFI, btw).

EFI was an option right into the 90's; I have friends with 1986 and 1987 Toys with carburetors.

I think you'll find that in 1985, most SR5 trucks got EFI, and non-SR5's did not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well, the search goes on.
the frame in the truck i looked at was shot. no where near the "good shape" i got over the phone.:angry is there any other sites that posts 4x4 trucks for sale?
thanx for everyones input, any other info on buying 79-85 toy's is still appreciated!!
 

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Greg said:
1984 was the first year for EFI. That's documented in my 1984 pickup factory service manual, plus Bigbird's 1984 4Runner has EFI (the ONLY 1984 I've seen with EFI, btw).

EFI was an option right into the 90's; I have friends with 1986 and 1987 Toys with carburetors.

I think you'll find that in 1985, most SR5 trucks got EFI, and non-SR5's did not.
I stand corrected. I don't think I've ever seen an 84 EFI truck.

As far as buying a Toyota, it can be a long, frustrating process trying to find a decent one to buy. When I purchased my first Toyota it took me about 4 months of looking to find one that wasn't too rusty. I found what you discovered, people with Toyotas with rusty frames never tell the truth about the condition of the frame, maybe they just didn't know. People with Toys with broken frames from rust rot still thought their pride and joy was worth top dollar.
 

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and also if your lookin a desiel toyota pick up was avalible from the years of81 to 87 then were discontinued due to being gutless and the stink
but the fuel milage is well awsome compared top any gas crap ther can be, but parts are starting to become a bit harder to get but are still avalible at some sort ,and some time a price .
but yeah 85 was kinda split year fro alote of stuff.like some 85 came with solid axels short box extended cab or long box but it was rare the moter that i got for my truck was a rare one extended cab not extra cab extended couldt fit a person behind for sure but was a long box
the rust will form mostlikey on the driver side bye the exaust or on the passenger side were it will make it a bit hard to find with a hamer is by the gas tank
moter swaps and driver train swaps are verry easy in this stuff
the 85 came with a wider rear axel too biger rear breaks too but rember sp[lit year ,so best bet get newer and do some thin like hmmmif i rember rifght goof/micheif had done to his new runner that is really your best bet if cash aint no problem.
any ways what else can be told?
all toyotas rust no matter what ,just poor prepreation from factory or from shipping
there are a few things to look for but it all depends on how much cash ansd how long you want to wait and how much work you want to do

oh i am dead agains t from lifting blocks in the rear leafs seen way too maney problems caused from them
3 body is ok and to get more lift use longer springs,and now that comes to how you will use your rig
me i haul heavy crap so have lots of leafs and still get fair good flex but the ride is like a 2x4 stiff.
outher things to do but when timecomes for that ask away you can get alote of answeers for that when the time is right

my 2 bits
oh how uch coin ya willin to spend?
stock 4x4 froman old coffin dogeer is best cuz yor right wont be aboused and possible never put in 4wheel drive
if is the way to go and convert over to solid
works out to be better and i like it bette cuz rthe frames are built better
my 2 bits
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey bravenight, you said you have a extended cab long box? what year is it? you mentioned longer springs for a little more lift. what sort of price they go for, and are you talking about swaping from another(different make) vehicle? just so i know incase i get a stocker i might have money left-over for a small lift. i've got around 3000 to play with, so money is definately an object.
as for what i'll use my truck for,ummmmmm........everything!!!!:******* well maybe i can narrow it down. alot of campin, haulin dirt bikes and all the other useless campin goodies. while i'm on the subject, how much weight can a stock toyota carry safely while on the trail. i know it depends on a million different factors, but maybe a ball park figure? would probabley sacrifice a bit of flex to gain more load cap.
by the way, anyone know for a fact that there was no std cab short box trucks in 85? i talked to someone who claims to have one. will find out when i go look at it in next couple of days.

rock n roll

thanx for the info
 

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PoorMans4x4 said:
forget that stuff about only getting 3" of lift. Some guys on here have 10"plus on theyre toys.

I heard too that on 83 or older you will run into probs with more than 3 inch suspenion lift.

All you need is EFI and a soild front axle
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
no, my truck is a 71 chev 2wd, which no longer strays too far off the dirt road. one bad experience is enough!! :D never owned a toyota, but the search goes on.
 
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