You might consider welding those spring perches up
He can grind to his hearts content, but that won't help when the 60/14 is an 8 lug pattern and his rims are 6 lug. I agree a 60/14 combo is the best bet if he wants to run that size of tire, but it's not only gonna cost him a bunch for the diff's, but it'll cost him more to find some new 15" 8 lug rims too. It ain't cheap to run 40's if you want to wheel it too.
Might be smarter (cheaper anyways) to pick up some 36" tires and keep the 10 bolts for a while.
you know sometimes you can find dana 60s with a 14 bolt to match for like 1000 bucks or a little more that arn't in bad shape, and 4.10 gears are fine with 39s aslong as you have the power, but with a stock or close too 350 you woud probably want 4.56s, personally i like 4.10s compared to 4.56s if you drive it on the road often and search thru the tire forums, there are some 8 bolt 15" rims for a 100 bucks right now, flipturner's rims are pretty good deal for 200 bucks and if you dont want to grind your calipers as much you can put wheel spacers but i would just grind them down because it doesn't take long anyways, for a front driveshaft if its too short and you can get a back driveshaft cut down because its cheaper rather then having to lengthen a driveshaft, or find one off a 208 transfer case cause i'm pretty sure they are longer, sometimes to make things strong it doesnt cost as much as you think, cheers
Remember there are those 9 1/2" 14 bolts in back of light duty 3/4 tons. The come in 6 lug, however they are wider and the spring perches are different. So you would have to move them and either run spacers in the front. I think you can also find them with a gov-lock in them, not sure of gearing in them but i think either 3.42, 3.73 or 4.10. As for your front 40's are a big tire to run on a 44, leaving it open will help it survive a little longer. So your best option is still finding a 60/14bolt combo, since they are almost a bolt in.
Im kinda in the same position as the op, I have a 68 chev with around 9 inches of lift, 44/14ff with a fresh 350, I want a 39.5 tall tire but i dont realy wana go to a 60, I have been told that cromoly axles would solve the weekness issues of the 44. Those kits can run up to 800 bucks and even more if i opt for some cromoly u joints, Im just trying to figure out what direction would be cheeper/ easyer. Keep in mind I like the clearence the 44 has over the 60's. Any one have experience with cromoly shafts?
You might make the shafts last longer, but you're moving the weak link to the carrier and pinion...now I don't know about you, but I'd prefer to swap a shaft rather than a new carrier, or pinion.
Big heavy tires with tiny diffs is a crummy combination. Keep in mind also you're asking a lot more from the smaller and less efficient 1/2 ton brakes. Do we need to get into how often you'd have to change ball joints with all the extra load?
well i installed the lift LOL the rear shocks are about 1-2 inches too short lol and they came in the lift kit lol so i called the shop hes goin to figure it out... do u guys lengthen the frt driveshaft... does anyone have extended brake hoses for sale
Keep us posted on how this works out for you. I love seeing fragged 12 bolt pics. I grenaded one backing out of a parking spot, on 33's, at less than 800 rpm. It might have two more cover bolts, but it's actually weaker than the 10 bolt due to the smaller pinion bearings.
To get the right shocks you need to measure a few things, and set your bump stops first. Step one is jack under the one side until your rear leaf is 'flat'. Might not be possible with lift springs depending on brand and spring rate. Stock rear springs can be forced into negative arch, but this is bad news and will kill your springs very quickly. Set your bump stops height, and measure the distance between the shock mount on the diff, and the shock mount on the frame. let down the jack.
Jack it from the bumper on one corner until the rear tire comes off the ground. Measure the distance between the shock mounts again.
You now have compressed and extended numbers. Subtract one from the other and you'll see how much shock stroke you need. With that info you can order shocks that will work for your truck.
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