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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
body lift hell.

My two rearmost body mount bolts were rusted almost completely through. needless to say, they busted off when I put my body lift in today.

Does anyone know how I can get a hold of Jake Harsha? - It sounds like he had the same frickin problem.

I decided to go ahead with the lift anyways (it was either drive around with only 9 body mounts, or drive around with 9 body mounts LIFTED! :D )

*Note* - the lift puck is just being held by the weight of the body only. the busted bolt is still in there. Same for the other side.

If anyone's familiar with this writeup then PLEASE help me out here - I'm not sure where to cut
I need to remove these ****ed bolts and get my body attached to the frame asap.









5

Thanks to Agent Scully for the lift and Panthino for lending a hand all day.
Thank sin advance to anyone who can help me fix this pickle.

I have to sleep. Bad.
 

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mine did the same thing......wahtcha gotta do is get a piece of plate(think it was 2x4x1/8, or something close to that) then drill a hole in the middle, and weld on a nut.....then u remove the old plate....takes a big screwdriver(or a cold chisel..) (it is spot welded in there in 4 spots...took me like 5 min to take it off....so
you have now removed this plate...

then the nwe plate you have made up(should be bigger) can be carefully welded in there(does need to be a prefessional job,just make it hold..;)
good luck,cam
 

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well if you want a simple fix just take off your armor and cut a little slit in the body (under the gas filler at the bottom )to allow a wrench to get to the bolt. the hole doesn't need to be very big just enough to allow a wrench in. then toss a little paint on the cut surface and put you armor back on. you will never be able to tell there are holes in the back corners after!!!


ps. use anti seize on all other body mount bolts.
 

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Corn, that's want I've already suggested to him on the phone yesterday.
Josh, when you cut into the tub from this position, there's 2 layers of sheet metal that you need to cut through. the second layer is slightly thicker but not much. You can use a dremel tool but make sure you have lots of dics on hand. You go through them real quick.
Lastly there's no bolts in there, it's just a rectangular plate with threads in the middle. Mine came off the spot welds but only rotated slightly and locked into place for me to keep turning the bolt.
YES, PUT ANTI-SEIZE ON THE BOLTS WHEN YOU INSTALL THEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
C.A.M.E.R.O.N said:
...then the nwe plate you have made up(should be bigger) can be carefully welded in there(does need to be a prefessional job,just make it hold..;)
good luck,cam
Does, or Does NOT need to be a professional job??



What about cutting a U shape out of the box like so:


agent scully said:
Corn, that's want I've already suggested to him on the phone yesterday.
Josh, when you cut into the tub from this position, there's 2 layers of sheet metal that you need to cut through. the second layer is slightly thicker but not much. You can use a dremel tool but make sure you have lots of dics on hand. You go through them real quick.
Lastly there's no bolts in there, it's just a rectangular plate with threads in the middle. Mine came off the spot welds but only rotated slightly and locked into place for me to keep turning the bolt.
YES, PUT ANTI-SEIZE ON THE BOLTS WHEN YOU INSTALL THEM.
Agent Scully - Are you guys sure it's better to get to it from the outside as opposed to the pic above?
 

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it's DOES NOT need to ba a professional job...hell it took me like 20 min to do it all...(removal of old piece,making of the new one, and instalation..) i'm thinking it would still be easier to do what i suggested, cause how are you gonna get a saw in there??? or are u using a torch???...hope that helps...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
C.A.M.E.R.O.N said:
it's DOES NOT need to ba a professional job...hell it took me like 20 min to do it all...(removal of old piece,making of the new one, and instalation..) i'm thinking it would still be easier to do what i suggested, cause how are you gonna get a saw in there??? or are u using a torch???...hope that helps...
C.A.M.E.R.O.N - I added you to msn if you use it.
When you remove the plate on the bottom, is the threaded plate just attached to that? I'm waiting for a few guys with tools (dremel and welder) to call me back so I want to gather as much info as possible. (the fsm and haynes does NOT cover this)

What you're saying is that I chisle out the welds on that plate, remove it and the broken bolt will come with it? I then take a new plate, drill it out, tack on a washer/bolt to the top and weld it back on?

If that's right, then isn't there any problems with welding so close to the gas tank/filler hoses?


For the other option (cutting open a tab to get inside), if you read the writeup on the yj faq here , then you'll see he mentions just hammering whats left of the bolt UP into the body and it will take the threaded plate with it (the plate inside, NOT the plate you're telling me to take off). That's how you remove the bolt if you cut into the side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's what the bolt looks like:


And here's where it broke off:


A) is the length of the old bolt when mounted. it is the length of the rubber and it broke off at B). (pretty much flush with the bottom of the moudy mount point.
 

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There should only be about an half inch of thread left attached to the plate. the plate sits right on top of the bottom of the sheet metal that the lift block is sitting under right now.
I thought of cutting from the inside just like your pic with the red square, but i decided not to because it's too close to the gas lines. there'll be sparks when you use a dremel or grinder.
Josh, the plate in there look just like the radiator lowering brackets, it's just a plate with a threaded hole and it's tack welded to the bottom, you shouldn't have too much trouble getting them to come off, hell, mine came loose when i was just trying to unscrew the bolt.
hope this gives you a better idea.
Hey, second thought, try just banging on what's left on that bolt up to get the plate to come loose and then you can put the new bolt trough there, but you'll still need to get in there somehow to put a nut on the end of the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quote Hey, second thought, try just banging on what's left on that bolt up to get the plate to come loose and then you can put the new bolt trough there, but you'll still need to get in there somehow to put a nut on the end of the bolt. /Quote

-That's what Jake Harsha says in his writeup. I'm not going to try until I get into someones garage tonight because I have to loosen all of the mounts and raise it up to get in there. I'd rather not do it twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
agent scully said:
Have someone keep an eye on all the brake lines and gas lines when you raise it to make sure you don't over extend them.
I think I screwed up in that regard.

Have a look here and see if you can pinpoint the areas that are most likely to have cable/hose extending problems:


I know its a willys, but it's the best I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm actually being serious because I found a few things I wasn't ready for:

1) gas tank hoses by the rear mounts are tighter than a saskachewan schoolgirl.

2) parking brak cable is tight where it enters the frame. (My bad due to new brake shoes and not loosening the cable)

3) I smell gas. and there are various UFO's, err... UF's.. Unidentified Fluids - see my 'Blinker Fluid' post under General.

4) When I first started her up, I was reving at about 13-1400rpms. normally 700-900.

5) Speed sensor cable (I think?!?) was tighter than..... well it was tight. (from top of firewall down to frame rail and follows brake lines to xfer case. I think it's the speed thingamajig)


I've only driven it around the block once, because as soon as I get the mounts fixed and everything else looked after, I have to haul ass to Calgary. I'd rather be fixing/extending hoses in my driveway instead of the highway.


So, yes. I'm serious. (Although the pic of the toy willys _did_ make me chuckle after reading your response)
 

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Gas fume wise, you should loosen up the clamps on the filler hose and surrounding hose so they can rotate and twist while you raise the tub. Check the brake lines on the frame just behind the front left wheel, the should come off the the clips on the frame. High reving engine on start up, that should not be affected by doing a body lift. I didn't run into any speedometer gear cable problems but you should try loosening up the e brake cable at the adjuster by the side of the frame, again I didn't have to do this it just got pulled up slightly through the frame your recent brake fix might have something to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
agent scully said:
Gas fume wise, you should loosen up the clamps on the filler hose and surrounding hose so they can rotate and twist while you raise the tub.
They should be good now. Can someone go down to their garage and take a sniff of their gas tank by the filler hose? I smell just a *little* bit of gas, but that should be normal, right?

Check the brake lines on the frame just behind the front left wheel, the should come off the the clips on the frame.
Unclipped them and they should be fine now. I didn't bend or kink any of the brake lines.

High reving engine on start up, that should not be affected by doing a body lift.
4.2L Carbed I6. I don't think it was anything a couple turns on some screws didn't fix.

I didn't run into any speedometer gear cable problems
It was zap-strapped to the brake lines running along the frame, I just pulled it back and forth to even out the slack.

but you should try loosening up the e brake cable at the adjuster by the side of the frame, again I didn't have to do this it just got pulled up slightly through the frame your recent brake fix might have something to do with it.
Yeah.. I've had e-brake adjusting problems for the last week or so. No biggie, but I'm just trying to narrow down ANY potential problem with this body lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
All fixed. I cut a 'U' shape on the ends of that box (technically the side). It took about 4 hours of bending and hammering to get everything in there. I think I'll end up smearing JB Weld all over it to cover up my cuts and holes I made.

What a bitch that was.
 
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