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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This thread is exactly as the topic states. I mean, check out this link for instance: http://www.rubiconexpress.com/cat99/page11.htm
How would you go about picking an SYE and new drive shaft from this page??
What would the difference be between the:
RE1800 for $174.95 or
RE1801 for $199.95 or
RE1811 for $349.95

And the Drive Shafts of
RE1898 for $249.95 or
RE1899 for $189.95




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Play hard + Rest easy
Drive a Jeep--'92 YJ
Option...Black Nite
 

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Originally posted by OptBlackNite:

RE1801
well it depends on what you want to run for a rear d/s. it you are after a cv jointed one then you will need the 1801. this kit includes the flange/seals etc and you need to cut and tap your output shaft to put the flange on.
this one is for a sye that does not use a cv type d/s (i think). it is the same idea as the 1801 kit but the flange is ment to accept a 1310 u-joint not the 4 bolt cv flange that you can see on the 1898 d/s.
this kit is the best on for your money. the reason for this is it totally replaces the output shaft with the heavy duty one they supply. it will increase the strength of your np231 quite a bit but will cost a lot more.

RE1898 vs. RE1899
RE1898 is a cv jointed drive shaft and the RE1899 is a normal single u-joint drive shaft. you can see the 1898 has a total of 3 joints and the other has only 2.

hope this clears it up for you

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'93 sahara ~ rancho springs, SOA, EB axles, detroit, 35s, and hi steer in the works
 

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Yeah what he said.

I looked at all those and then decided on the JB Conversions unit with the 32 spline output and new tailhousing etc.

I prefer regular u-joints, so I'll install the kit and then measure and have a driveshaft made locally.



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Dan
91 Cherokee, 3" body lift, 2" front lift blocks, Warn XD900i winch, custom narrowed rear seat.
 

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OptBlackNite. I would skip on buying the driveshafts from RE. You can save a whole bunch of money by getting a driveshaft from a junkyard, and having it shortened + balanced if need be. You might even be able to have one custom made locally for less $ like Dan said.
 

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I think that whether you need a cv will depend upon how much lift you are running and how long your driveshaft is. I have seen 4 inch lifts without a SYE, and the driveshaft angle is very steep. I don't imagine that you can get much travel out of a driveshaft that is near binding at ride height. If I was to buy one, it would be the HD 32 spline, I believe JB conversions sells one for around $300 US as well.

As for the CV driveshaft, Arizona Drivelines sells a high angle CV that will flex to 40 degrees for $325 US. A regular CV will do under 30 degrees. I am running one in mine and it solves my binding problem and I am running springover with revolvers and an 18 inch long driveshaft.It is a hybrid, using parts from a 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton to make it. It is a quality piece.
 

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For most Jeeps over 4" you will need a CV shaft to eliminate vibrations. Whether you need to upgrade you output shaft depends on lots of variables. Vehicle modifications, driving style and terrain used will dictate whether you truly need to spend the extra bucks on the heavy duty version. If you want to give me more info I'd be happy to give you my opinion which will be just that an opinion, remember nobody but yourself can honestly say whats right for you. Illusion's(606)590-2112 sells the re1801 for $350Can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by camoburban:
remember nobody but yourself can honestly say whats right for you.
Yeah, I know. I just need help/info. I prefer to make skilled and informed decisions when it comes to buying expensive items.




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Play hard + Rest easy
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Cornjeeper is right on the money. Each one is for a different application although they are very similar. I really like the HD version. In fact, Rubicon Express products and service are both some of the best in the industry. I f'ing love those guys.

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80 Cj5, 360amc, Swampers, Custom 5in. lift, Off Road only
92 XJ 6" Rubicon, 32s, strictly street
 

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Oh yeah, any Jeep with a lift over 4" will suffer from vibrations that will lead to a horrible death wobble unless a CV driveshaft is used. Also try taking a look at part# RE1822 on the same page. This is a great product that works great. I've used it in my Cj-5 with a CV driveshaft and a Rubicon 4.5" ED lift. No problems yet and we push the limits all the time. Plus any shop can install it in a flash.

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80 Cj5, 360amc, Swampers, Custom 5in. lift, Off Road only
92 XJ 6" Rubicon, 32s, strictly street
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by MikeCj5:
Oh yeah, any Jeep with a lift over 4" will suffer from vibrations that will lead to a horrible death wobble unless a CV driveshaft is used. Also try taking a look at part# RE1822 on the same page. This is a great product that works great. I've used it in my Cj-5 with a CV driveshaft and a Rubicon 4.5" ED lift. No problems yet and we push the limits all the time. Plus any shop can install it in a flash.


Yeah I figured so much on the vibrations to expect. I plan on using the RE 4.5 XD lift or maybe (probably not) a Skyjacker 6" Rock-Ready lift.

How much did the SYE install cost? I have a feeling that I will be spending some serious dough.


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Play hard + Rest easy
Drive a Jeep--'92 YJ
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Be careful with the Skyjacker rock ready its a mono-linear leaf design, don't know how well it will hold up and their warranty sucks ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know that it is a mono-linear lift. But, I don't know the pros/cons.


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Play hard + Rest easy
Drive a Jeep--'92 YJ
Option...Black Nite
 
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