how much lift before SYE kit

4388 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by braer, Dec 28, 2001

braer

Discussion Starter · Dec 28, 2001

we just bought an 87 2dr xj with i believe a 3" pro comp lift and 33's. i want to add another 2" and hack the fenders for clearance, what i want to know is do i need to add the SYE kit for the extra 2" inches or should i add one even with the 3" lift. also how much is an SYE kit and how hard are they to install? any help appreciated
thanks,
brad

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when in doubt, hammer the gas
81 toy 4.5-5"lift, rebuilt 22r, homebuilt bumpers, 33 mud kings JDgreen, 4.37's

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Brent

· #2 · Dec 28, 2001

I think the rule is over 4 " u need one but as we all know rules are ment to be broken.

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92 Jeep YJ with 1 inch shackle lift and a 2 inch body lift running 31's

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Greg W

· #3 · Dec 28, 2001

I think it also somewhat depends on whether you're doing a transfer case drop and if so, how much. Does the XJ have a longer rear driveshaft than the YJ? The longer the driveshaft, the better off you are because the lesser your shaft angle will be.

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XJman

· #4 · Dec 28, 2001

I'd just like to know how much more fender trimming you plan on doing since you've got 33's tucked in there with a 3" lift. I think those fenders have been hacked quite a bit. As for the SYE, generally speaking, the older the XJ, the more lift you can get away without worrying about an SYE. If you really want to avoid an SYE, i'd say get a YJ yoke, and drop the t-case an inch. I've got 4" with a YJ yoke and t-case drop and no vibes, and i plan on going taller, and i think i'll be able to get away with it. There is a guy that runs 7.5" and has no major driveline mods. Every Jeep is different.
Jordan

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nikon_jeeper

· #5 · Dec 28, 2001

One thing to do to it that will help is to get a slip yoke from a YJ that's 1" longer then the XJ one...that way you'll have more length to the driveshaft combo...

Really though all you need to do to determine the need for a SYE is install the lift. If it starts to vibrate then try dropping the transfer case 1" (you can use something 1" thick with a hole through it, preferably metal and longer bolts). If it's still vibrating, take off the last part of the lift you put on, raise the t-case back up and wait till you can get a SYE kit and CV driveshaft. Don't try to live with the vibration...it could destroy a bit of your driveline...

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Phil M. - Kent, WA
95 XJ Sport w/Stuff
"Who cares about a list of crap, can you drive it?"

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braer

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 28, 2001

Originally posted by XJman:
I'd just like to know how much more fender trimming you plan on doing since you've got 33's tucked in there with a 3" lift. I think those fenders have been hacked quite a bit. As for the SYE, generally speaking, the older the XJ, the more lift you can get away without worrying about an SYE. If you really want to avoid an SYE, i'd say get a YJ yoke, and drop the t-case an inch. I've got 4" with a YJ yoke and t-case drop and no vibes, and i plan on going taller, and i think i'll be able to get away with it. There is a guy that runs 7.5" and has no major driveline mods. Every Jeep is different.
Jordan

XJman there has been no triming as of yet, as i said we just bought it and i think it only has a 3" lift. could be more but i'm not sure. how much can a guy pick up a YJ yoke at the wreckers for? what is the best wreckers to go to for Jeep parts in the area? also are the drive shafts on the four doors longer than the two doors or are they the same length?

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when in doubt, hammer the gas
81 toy 4.5-5"lift, rebuilt 22r, homebuilt bumpers, 33 mud kings JDgreen, 4.37's

[This message has been edited by braer (edited December 27, 2001).]

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Dan

· #7 · Dec 28, 2001

If your not as lazy as me you'd do it at 4".
I have almost six inches of lift at the rear of my XJ and I still havent got around to doing my slip yoke eliminator.

I bought it, just havent got around to putting it in cause my driveshaft still works, although it wobbles a little bit due to the fact that theres not a whole lot of spline engagement.

I spent all the money and got the JB Conversions slip yoke eliminator, its about as good as they get. You can get away with the hack and drill RE version, its like $199 and does the job but it leaves you with a flanged output insted of a yoke.
Theres others in between, if you want the strongest get a kit with the stronger output shaft. The cheaper kits either use a machined stock output shaft or they simply shorten your existing shaft
Check these links for info http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/np231/ http://www.4xshaft.com/conversions.html

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Dan
91 Cherokee, 3" body lift, 2" front lift blocks, Warn XD900i winch, custom narrowed rear seat.

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braer

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 28, 2001

thanks for all the info

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when in doubt, hammer the gas
81 toy 4.5-5"lift, rebuilt 22r, homebuilt bumpers, 33 mud kings JDgreen, 4.37's

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