trick is to find a good welder. anything will 'work', but nuthin beats a quality TIG weld.
IMO stick and MIG have too much spatter and **** gets on your ring and pinion gears.
Lots peeps do it, but I'ld rather be sure, over replacing a gear set shortly after.
No need to revove the carrier
a)pop the cover
b)clean the center gears
c)weld 'er up
d) replace cover and top up fluid
They gears should not be cast steel.
Maybe your thinkin for welding the gears to the cast carrier. You can weld the side gears to the carrier, but I'ld preffer the gears welded together (more quality weld / better steel).
Ok i'm not sure on the exact type of metal it is but if it's not cast then there hardened, otherwise they wouldn't stand up to the wear and tear. and welding hardened steel is the same procedure as cast. i have a welded rear end in my S10 and i'v welded lots of other rear ends and to this day not one has broken.
this is the procedure i use
1. drain rear end
2. burn off oil residue on gears and carrier with torch
3. paint everything with std primer other than what your welding this will prevent spater from sticking to anything
4. preheat gears with torch and weld solid, I prefer gas shielded flux core or metal core wire because it welds really hot.
5. chip off slag and post heat a couple times.
thats it, when it's cooled down blow out with compressed air and chip off any spater that stuck. if it's a good weld it will never break.
The only thing you would use stainless wire on is stainless steel. I'v never heard of anyone using stainless on anything else, so i dont know what the strength of the weld would be. I dont think it would work to well though.
I have welded 4 diffs and never had a problem with them. They have all been wheelend hard for a year now.
All I did was weld the spiders all together and then the spiders to the case. I used a mig and no preheat.
Be sure to clean the carrier with breakclean.