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CrazyJeepMan said:
The only thing you would use stainless wire on is stainless steel. I'v never heard of anyone using stainless on anything else, so i dont know what the strength of the weld would be. I dont think it would work to well though.

Chris

Stainless welding rods give an awesome weld on normail steel, very clean very strong!
 

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You need to preheat your diff to 800F and stress releave it after let it soak for 3 hours at 1000. I would not use stainless on these gears. Allot of gears are made of H13. Check around your welds after for heat checks if you have any make sure you weld them up. This would be the proper way to do it.

As for using stainless fill on mild steel there is no point unless you are joining disimilar metals. They you would use 309 rod. You should not use stainless fill on dirty metal stainless does not like to fuse to dirty metal or oxides.
 

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how my toy thirds get welded....


remove diff from axle, take carrier out and remove ring gear. remove bearings. heat it oven . weld spider gears to each other, then to carrier. put back in oven and slowly turn heat down over a couple hours. put together and set it up, install.


My buddy welded mine for me...... his way is tried tested and true.... he never broke anything in the third..... just the stuff around it . that had more to do with the 350 and 35inch boggers and hammer down.
 

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Why is this so complicated to everyone but me?

I pulled the carrier, put it in the vice with the ring gear and the bearings still attached. Gave Pat a box of 7018 rods and told him to weld the spider gears and side gears together and don't stop welding until you can't see the gears anymore.

I beat the snot out of it at Rock Crawl a weak later, and then drove it on the street like that for a year. When I took it out when I changed gear ratios it still looked exactly the same as when I put it in.

As a matter of fact, I'm still using the same bearings in the rear axle, and those who saw me bouncing it through the rocks at the Can4x4 event on the long weekend, will probably agree theres nothing wrong with them.
 

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michael said:
fugly method
you do not need to make a big mess to lock the dif
you're absolutely right.

I do not need bigger tires either :laugh
 

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Be sure to clean the carrier with breakclean.

I know this is an old post but it came up while I was searching.

Just a NOTE to anyone reading this post is do not spray anything with brakeclean that you plan to weld. the gasses that are generated are lethal.
Anyone who welds should google it and inform yourself.
 
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I have always used tumbler but have never really checked to see if its an issue because it is for paint prep i assume it will be totally gone???
 

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I know this is an old post but it came up while I was searching.

Just a NOTE to anyone reading this post is do not spray anything with brakeclean that you plan to weld. the gasses that are generated are lethal.
Anyone who welds should google it and inform yourself.
only if you don't let it dry up before starting your weld....

and what diff welding thread would be complete without this prime example?
 

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Way back when we welded lots for demo car races, I've done a couple in 4x4s as well but in the end a welded diff like a spool eats tires so fast its not worth it long term. I've always pulled the large side gears out heated them up in the oven (while wife/mom/girlfriend is not home) at 500 degrees, filled in the teeth - all but two per side that will engage with the small spider gears once re installed, grind off any slag back into the oven at 250 for an hour then turned off and let them sit till cool. This way you dont wreck the carrier or the thrust washers inside and you get a little bit of movement so the action isnt so harsh as well.

Keep in mind if you are on a budget these days there are options, a full spool is around 150-200 bucks and there are mini spools as well for even less for most diffs. We just installed a mini spool from Trail Gear for a customer last month into a Sami axle I think it was 75.00 for the Mini spool and a couple hours labour for us to install it.
 

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I am not saying i disagree with your chosen method but i am wondering how the gears like running into teeth that are full of weld? wouldnt they eventually break off? I am picturing the meshing teeth rotating and then coming to a sudden stop because the other teeth are filled with weld, is this what you are doing? ever have any failures?
 

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I was just wondering about the same thing? seems like it won't work long term.

I am not saying i disagree with your chosen method but i am wondering how the gears like running into teeth that are full of weld? wouldnt they eventually break off? I am picturing the meshing teeth rotating and then coming to a sudden stop because the other teeth are filled with weld, is this what you are doing? ever have any failures?
 

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I can't believe this thread keeps coming back to life.

A mini spool for most popular axles is $50
 

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yes but mini spool doesn't have the advantages thats being discussed (less harsh action on the tires)

I can't believe this thread keeps coming back to life.

A mini spool for most popular axles is $50
 

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If you weld the gears and they can still move you would be ADDING much more stress and without any benefit (the steel will add carbon to the weld making it brittle). You would not get much more (if ANY) turning radius than a spool. I would use ni99 or 308, BUT many people have used 7018 to make a orb of traction with no problems.
 

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That's what I was thinking thats why I was curious to hear more from gearsnrears on his experience with them since it sounds like something he has done alot of, and he maybe able to attest to how long they have lasted.

If you weld the gears and they can still move you would be ADDING much more stress and without any benefit (the steel will add carbon to the weld making it brittle). You would not get much more (if ANY) turning radius than a spool. I would use ni99 or 308, BUT many people have used 7018 to make a orb of traction with no problems.
 

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Ya, thats exactly what i was thinking about. I suspect the stress load would really spike when the gears try to rotate but encounter filled teeth.
If you weld the gears and they can still move you would be ADDING much more stress and without any benefit (the steel will add carbon to the weld making it brittle). You would not get much more (if ANY) turning radius than a spool. I would use ni99 or 308, BUT many people have used 7018 to make a orb of traction with no problems.
 

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Weld tends to dent slightly over time Is all I have ever seen in this method and can be filled back in, either way welding really does suck. Last diff we did was in a front wheel drive car for gravel road kicks. Keep in mind I totally agree on the mini spool or spool, they are cheap these days like I said in that thread on the Sami axle we built, I'd never weld up a diff again unless it was a bush beater worth about the same as the cost of the welding rod. Even a lunch box locker like a Lock Right, Ausi locker, etc... are not very expensive, will save you the cost of the tires the spool will melt off and you can actually drive it reasonably on the street.
 
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