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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that my truck is almost ready to drive. I need to figure our what I am going to do to stop the axle wrap. I have unimog axles(6" portals), 3" block, 5" susp lift and 40" tires. This adds up to a whole lot of twisting power. Any recomendations on what I should use?
 

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Four link and coilovers.

And while you're building them, could you make a second set for the back of my truck too :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe in the future, but I have already got the leaf spring installed. So.....Anyone got any useful ideas?:D
 

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Have you done the shackle flip on the rear axle yet?...
it would seem that lift blocks + portal axles would equate to axle wrap from hell....:D

your best bet would likely be to go to a dual triangulated torque bar with a shackle at the frame end.
probably a single torque bar in front (oilpan clearance)
Better yet put shackles on both ends of the leaf springs and go with the four link as was mentioned above.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
no I haven't done a shackel flip on the back. I guess if I did that I could robably get rid of those blocks though...hmm.... the blocks on the rear are actually the original factory ones that were back there. How hard is it to do a shackel flip?

What is a dual triangulated torque bar?
 

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Shackle flip kitHERE

triangulated torqe bars kinda like this:


I was thinking you might need two for the rear axle though.....
 

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I used some 74 Ford 2wd leaf spring front mounts (3" wide spring) and mounted them in the back of my bronco. I had to change spring packs because it was too much lift. It was quite easy to do, I spent about 6 hours total working on just the shackle flip, drilling, mounting, assembled. Need to change the pinion angle and then it is done! I hope there isn't too much axle wrap!

The kit for the chevy might not work on your dodge, depends on the spring perches and frame widths! Plus it is mega bucks!;)
 

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I did the shackle flip on my truck Jarett, it didn't work out well, I had two blocks, which would probably be equivalent to your one block and portal hubs.
Anyway, when you drop only the one end of the spring, you're gonna end up with your axle slightly forward in the wheel opening, and your portal hubs are now gonna run forward.

So yes you can do it, but you're gonna have to rework the spring perches to make the pinion angle right and the portal hubs vertical again.
 

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nice ladder bar... is that an allready make kit or what?? need some of those on my truck too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the info all. I think after reading the writeups on the shackel flip, I am going to hold off on that for now. It's a little more work than I am ready for at this point in time.

I was planning on putting 2 ladder bars front and rear. Thanks for that pic. It will be good to go off of for a design. I like that idea of the shakel on the end of it. Would be good for flex. Any idea what those two black pieces are supposed to be for?
 

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Jarett said:
Any idea what those two black pieces are supposed to be for?
I think those get welded onto the diff tubes or housing and the triangulated bar thingy is attached to that then the shackle gets bolted up to the frame...right?:confused:
 

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i was thinking of using a similar set up to the ladder bar shown above but instead of using two "triangle stlye" ones on each side i was planning on making a tripod design with two lowers that mount below the axle tube either side of the diff, and a top one that mounts ontop of the diff housing, the tubes would all meet up at a shackle that bolts/welded onto thew frame crossmember. this way it shouldnt have any suspension binding and would stradle the driveshaft and possibly protect if without robbing much groundclearance.
 

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A little off topic, but I have some ladder bars for sale if anyone is interested. 1 1/4 tube, mounts for axle tubes and frame, poly bushings. Need more info? post reply.
 

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Also check axel wrap on this site:D :canadian
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
lean green said:
A little off topic, but I have some ladder bars for sale if anyone is interested. 1 1/4 tube, mounts for axle tubes and frame, poly bushings. Need more info? post reply.
could you send me a pic of them and measurements?
 

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hey if you are into the 80's thing go with ladder bars. if not jump ahead 20 years and use links a 3 link setup should be lots to hold those axles in place!! mho
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am going with ladder bars, because I want something simple. Besides, my truck is from the 70's :*******
 

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are you not defeating the purpose of having portal axles if you use ladder bars? all that clearance gained... won't it be lost to ladder bars? by the way.. VERY cool truck!!!!! i love the trend of using mog stuff
 

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Only one bracket of the ladder bars will hang below the axle, but no lower than the center of the differential
 

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Clearance Robbing with Traction Bars

cambo said:
are you not defeating the purpose of having portal axles if you use ladder bars? all that clearance gained... won't it be lost to ladder bars? using mog stuff
Hey Jarret its me Erik. I agree with this guy. Rob Bryce seems to have used 2 lower arm links to prevent axle wrap. He seemed to have no problems with them in the top truck except that they broke or something from being too thin. He doesnt seem to rob too much clearance with this setup.

I dont think we have much of a choice here perhaps? The best place to stop axle wrap is probably at the bottom if not someplace high at the top of the axle.

Will making a tall (but strong) upper bracket on the top middle of the axle with a honkin' bushing or heim be good enough. It might?

I really wonder if Avalanche's Assasin's funky looking reinforced lower links really do work. It is interesting because these links are connected at the bottom of the Assasin's portal. I was thinking of making a copy and try putting them somewhere near the bottom of my portals. I dont know if this will be possible. Maybe this will cause some expensive damage.

Let me know how your traction bars go cuz im gonna get there one day too!

Erik
 
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