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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just trying to get some info. I saw corn's welding set up and now i'm thinking of getting one, but i don't have the cash for that good of a welder. So someone tell me what i could/should be looking at? Whats good out there, wheres a good place to buy one? For my jeep right now, i'd probably be building rock rails, a rear bumper and do some touch ups on my front bumper, and to learn as well. So any info, hints/tips. Or should i just save up and get a good one in the long run. I tried this topic in the newbie section buy wasn't getting much.
Thanks
Jordan


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33x12.50MT's, 4.5"+ shocks and lower control arms, a cheap 12" sub, and a cheap amp
 

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Jordan,

For minor sheet metal and thinner stock (like less than 1/4"), you can get by with a 110. Look for the better brands like Miller and Lincoln, and pay the few extra bucks. They'll run you $400-500 cdn.

But... if you want a welder that you will keep and use forever, look into the 220v series. Again, look to a quality brand like Miller, Lincoln or Air Liquide.

I have an Air Liquide 200N that works very well. Does up to 1/2, which is more than enough for automotive use.

A good quality 220v welder will run you $1700-$2200. Sounds like a lot, but good tools usually aer a good lifetime investment. Don't buy junk.

tim.



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We've got an old Aclands 220 arc welder. I've used it for 20years without problems. It was fairly inexpensive BUT if I was going to invest now I would definatly buy a good wire feed. It's bloody hard to weld thin stuff(ie body panels) with a stick and get a good job. As for good brands you'll have to listen to WOLF359 or anyone else thats up on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick replies. Basically, i'd like to teach myself how to weld and then weld bumpers and some armor protection for my jeep. I don't have $2000 to spend on a welder especially who knows how long i'll have this jeep for and everything. So i guess i'm saying that if i could teach myself to weld and be able to fab my own armor with a 110, then i'd be very happy. Then down the road, i'd get a 220 welder. Any suggestions.
Jordan

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WANTED:
33x12.50MT's, 4.5"+ shocks and lower control arms, a cheap 12" sub, and a cheap amp
 
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Well you're not gonna need to go super thick for armour and bumpers. So figure out what materials you may use, than look into 110 in the brands that WOLF359 listed. See if any of them can weld it up, and prices of them. This will give you a place to start. Also, anyone can learn to weld good with a wire feed and a little practice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, thanks guys one more question whats the difference between mig/tig and stick welders? And which one do i want?

From looking around so far, i think the lincoln SP-135T would probably be best for me, any opinions on this
Description:

Everything you need to weld in one complete package! The SP-135T is a MIG & flux-cored wire feeder/welder that has been specifically designed for home workshops, autobody repair, and light-maintenance welding applications. Even stainless steel and aluminum can be welded. It's compact and lightweight and can be run on residential (120V) power. The SP-135T is a great solution for the occasional user who demands high quality.

Advantage Lincoln Package includes gun and cable, work clamp and cable, gas regulator, handshield, video and spool of wire. 120V operation-no special wiring required. Designed for .023-. 030" solid MIG wire and .035" flux-cored wire. Suitable for welding .023-. 030" stainless steel and .035" aluminum. High capacity output filter capacitor for excellent MIG welding using CO2 or Argon/CO2 gas blends. "Quick release" idle roll pressure arm easily adjusts wire tension for positive wire feeding. Reversible, dual groove drive roll feeds solid and flux-cored wires. For welding 24 gauge through ¼" mild steel plate

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WANTED:
33x12.50MT's, 4.5"+ shocks and lower control arms, a cheap 12" sub, and a cheap amp



[This message has been edited by XJman (edited March 07, 2002).]
 

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well wolf359 i took your advice on the m200 and i love thing to death. great machine.

jord also look into renting a machine. if you only need to make a bumper and stuff rent one for a week and go nuts. make sure you have all the metal cut to shape and ready to weld up. last yr i rented a 130 amp lincoln machine for a week and it only cost me 55 bucks plus wire, gas etc. go and talk to the guys at air liquide in langley (on 200th) and ask for some info.



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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroits f+r, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks andrew, ya i might do that actually, but i also got to learn as well. We'll see what happens, got some time to go until i start buying myself some toys again anyways.

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33x12.50MT's, 4.5"+ shocks and lower control arms, a cheap 12" sub, and a cheap amp

[This message has been edited by XJman (edited March 07, 2002).]
 

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Hobart 175 will run you about $900, is a 220v machine so it will be able to weld thicker materials in a single pass, and has a better duty cycle than a 110v machine.
 

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Actually my choice would be a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC.runs off 230 wich is not hard to hook up. This is a small stick machine. You might think im crazy and that stick sucks and that mig is way faster and so on and so on. Well youre partially right because i am crazy and mig is faster but ive welded structural steel with a 5/32 rod on this lil machine and ill put up my stick weld any day of the week against a sweet mig weld and i'll guarantee you that the tensile strength of the stick is unmatched by far. Mind you if i was in business i wouldnt make any money with a stick machine. Damn, i really need a nice mig/tig setup.....

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ZookPower
 

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Damn, i really need a nice mig/tig setup.....

[/B]

Should be able to convert your AC/DC stick welder to run a TIG torch. You wouldn't be able to weld AC high frequency, but you could still weld stainless and mild steel.

I'm thinking about converting mine in the next couple weeks to see what it is like.

Ideally I would like to convert it to run AC and a have foot pedal control. I'm not smart enough to figure that out so I'm searching the 'net, and maybe I can trade favors with some of the mad scientists at work to have them figure it out for me.


In theory all you need is a TIG torch and cables etc., Argon bottle, and a regulator. You could run either water or air cooled.


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jo-jo
http://island4x4.com

"Give a monkey a brain and he'll swear he's the centre of the universe". - Fishbone circa 1993

"I love the smell of Argon in the morning, smells like victory".

"The right to be heard does not automatically include the right to be taken seriously."
- Hubert Humphrey
 

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FWIW, and remember I'm only passing this along, but a few months ago someone on the jeeptech list said he worked at a big welding supply place. In terms of welders coming in for repairs, for every Miller, there were ten Lincolns. KMS Tools in Abbotsford and Coquitlam have a good reputation.

Tim
 

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http://www.welding.com/weld_edu.shtml

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jo-jo
http://island4x4.com

"Give a monkey a brain and he'll swear he's the centre of the universe". - Fishbone circa 1993

"I love the smell of Argon in the morning, smells like victory".

"The right to be heard does not automatically include the right to be taken seriously."
- Hubert Humphrey
 
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