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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone run a Y kink front setup befor?
im just looking for some pros and cons. TnT custums makes a really nice Y link setup and the reason im looking at this option is because of the Cross member/belly skid that allows the control arms to be mounted to the inside of the frame rails, giveing up no ground clearence. and the added flex is great to :)
all the reading i can find on this setup is from ppl running it in the US im just looking for some more local info. it seems like everyone in the US i talk to runs Moab or the Rubicon and its a bit different on the Wetcoast :)
the other option im looking at is a 4.5 BDS long arm setup or i just read about a Rough Country 4.5 Y link setup for super cheap but im kinda conserned about the quality of Rough Countrys stuff.

any help, coments or ideas would be greatly appreciated

thanks
 

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Have you looked at rustys long arm setup?
 

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Y link?

Is this the 3-link radius arm set up? Fairly typical. Only major difference is the arms are dog legged for more clearance. The N'th mobility is also very similar. I have club members running both TNT and N'th. Yes the clearance is more on the front, but the dog leg leaves the front pinion yoke on the low pinion axles exposed and subject to impacts far more often than a more traditional radius arm set up.

comparing TNT or N'th with BDS, Ruff country or Rusty's is not a fair comparision. Huge difference is quality of parts. TNT and N'th are in a league above. If you are looking at TNT, check out Clayton and Gen Right as well. The Clayton has perhaps the best belly-trans-oil pan skid plates of the bunch.
 

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I've run Rubicon long arms on my TJ and Treks/TnT Y-Link on my XJ.
My tires always rubbed at full lock on the long arms; can't touch them on the Y-Link.
The Tnt kit is all RE stuff other than the arms and their centre plate.
 

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I've run Rubicon long arms on my TJ and Treks/TnT Y-Link on my XJ.
My tires always rubbed at full lock on the long arms; can't touch them on the Y-Link.
The Tnt kit is all RE stuff other than the arms and their centre plate.
Ya, but you got little tires!

I have the Clayton kit on my LJ. Yes, the tires rub a tiny bit on the arms, but its hardly noticeable. I am running 37" tires and my primary rub is when turning right, the driver's tire hits the steering box bolts. I have 45k+ km on the suspension so far and all the joints and bushings are in pretty good shape. You will not get that kind of life out of RE bushings or their flex joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes it is the 3 link radius setup. ya i was wondering about manufacturing quality and quality of steel. it costs so much now everyone seems to be buying from china and its no where near the same quality of US made steel.
Clayton eh ? cool thanks ill check into it
 

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Looks kind of cheap. No ability to adjust for fine tuning (though they do a job selling this as a good thing). You are stuck with what it is set at. Those are RE joints. Inferior to the Currie Johnny Joint.
 

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Caster is adjustable and you can order with adjustable length. While I'm not a big RE fan, I've never had a problem with my flex joints.
What's so much better about the JJ?
 

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If you have had a RE joint apart, its two pieces of hard plastic. You set the load by way of set screw. A little bit of wear and clunk clunk clunk. There are also varying answers from RE as to how much load you put on it. Also hard plastic is not great for absorbing impact. Essentially a "cheap" copy of a JJ, though consumer cost between the two is not significant. The JJ uses a softer urethene that enables the grease to get around it and lube better. Load is set by way of a snap ring and groove. The compound also absorbs impact better. Playing with both, the JJ housing also just feels heavier construction.

As for the axle bushing ends. Helped friends swap out far too many of the RE axle bushings over the last year. They don't seem to last. The large NAPA rubber bushing that Clayton uses just seem to last. Its twice the size, so that is probably something to do with it.
 

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No I haven't had my flex joints apart but the pics show it pretty clear. Mine are about 5 years old and daily driven as well and I haven't needed to adjust or change them, still tight like they we're out of the box. I just grease them up after every outing along with what ever needs greasing Any regular ball joint/tie rod end use's hard plastic for the outer race as well, impact strength is good as long as there's no play.

I'm also not a big fan of the RE rubber bushings, but I recently just changed mine out and when I called National 4wd for a replacement, they asked about my arms and said that RE recalled a large amout of their bushings for excessive wear, unfortunatley mine didn't apply, but perhaps your friends would of. The replacements we're apparently improved, so we'll see about that.

In any case, to the OP, I'd be avoiding rough country at all costs, BDS is fine for some stuff IMO, but as mentioned, not in the same league as Clayton, TNT and others. Typically you get what you pay for, the cheap stuff is just to look good at the mall, the good stuff is functional as-well.
 
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