[AndrewH]

well this is the situation. after my tranny/t-case swap i am left with some really steep driveshaft angles. i am going to deal with the rear with a high angle driveline but what do i do with the front? i tried to use my non cv jointed front shaft but i can't do a full rotation of it because the straps on the EB d20 hit the shaft yoke. so for the time being i made myself a cv front driveshaft just so i can move my jeep around. the front d44 is a low pinion d44 and the yoke is parallel with the d20 yoke. now if i do end up using a cv front i will need to cut and turn my knuckles to get the diff pointed towards the t-case...right? now my idea is to use a r/c d44 out of a 70s ford 3/4 ton which will give me a higher pinion and a better driveshaft angle. using the r/c housing wouldn't be a big deal because i would just get the housing, cut and turn it then swap everything from my EB 44 onto it and sell my EB44 housing. any thoughts/suggestions from you guys??????

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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroit, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!

 

[lars]

Or you could just put in some lower springs. 8-9" of lift is quite a bit.

But yeah, using a hi-pinion axle and rotating the knuckles should do the trick. Of course, if you don't use 4WD at high speeds, you could probably get away w/o using a CV shaft anyway.


...lars

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19911995409993004:144444.103512.58274

 

[loya2b]

Well, I know your jeep has been off the road for a while. What is the most cost efficient/time efficient option? Can you lower the jeep? I know someone who would be interested to know.

[This message has been edited by loya2b (edited January 16, 2002).]

 

[AndrewH]

well i got off the phone with jesse from high angle drivelines and i am going to pick up two cv heads that he makes. they are for a 2" tube and have a 34* operating range. plus they only cost 180 a piece. this way i can keep my EB diff and just turn the knuckles. any more thoughts...

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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroit, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!

 

[chris siebert]

What will the angle of your rear shaft be?
It is not recommended to exceed 20 degrees operating angle or you will likely get vibration. I have found that being close to this angle will cut the life of the ball socket quite a bit, even with regular greasing, but in my case, it was possible that binding the joint contributed to this. I am currently running a high angle 1310 cv from Arizona Drivelines. It will flex to 40 degrees. It is pretty cool how they did it. They used a 1330 cv body to allow the ball socket to flex even further and the rest of the joint is 1310. I have only been running it for about 3 months so I cannot really say if it will last longer yet. I would imagine it would if binding was an issue on the old cv.

I am running a high pinion 44 in the front and the angles are nothing to be concerned about, but the driveshaft is also 43 inches long so yours may be different.

 

[AndrewH]

the rear cv head i am going to pick up will operate up to 34* with no problems. the guys down in the states are all running them and have yet to have any problems. they come with a one yr warrenty and Jesse (owner)seemed to be very helpfull when i talked to him. check out the site www.highangledriveline.com.

as for the joint you got that will run up to 41* you say that it uses a regular 1310 ball and socket but then uses a 1330 case. so could i make this same set-up?? i have a 1330 case and a 1310 ball/socket so could i just get a pair of 1310/1330 u-joints. this way the case will be able to occupy the 2 1330 ends of the joint and the ball/socket part can occupy the 1310 parts. am i making sense????

what is the max range of a 1310 cv head. i have heard that the 2.5" tube size one isen't as flexable as the 2" diameter tube size one. any ideas????

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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroit, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!

 

[chris siebert]

You're on the right track there. The only thing that I am unsure of is that the 1330 bodies that I have seen are the GM style that are longer and have a greater distance between the u-joints. Is the distance between the u-joint centers on the 1330 body that you have the same as a 1310? If it is what did this body come out of? As for the ball socket assembly, I am thinking they may have used a stronger spring. It looks identical to a 1310 ball socket otherwise. I will phone in the next little while to get a part number for future repairs. I am sure he will tell me any tricks to it.
The other thing is that the driveshaft is notched at the lower end of the cv to clear when it is flexed out. I could easily do this on the milling machine. You could probably do it with a grinder.
I don't see a huge advantage to doing this yourself unless you are getting a sweet deal on the driveshaft through someone local because through Arizona Drivelines, the high angle cv option is only $75 more.

 

[chris siebert]

As for the maximum angle of the 1310 head, I measured mine to be 32 degrees in only one direction. If you try to turn it, it will bind. So it is probably more like the high 20s to have a smooth rotation.

 

[AndrewH]

well i have been told it was 27 and that i can get it up to 30-31 with a little grinding of the yokes... i will give it a try this weekend.

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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroit, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!