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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just picked up an NP241 and I know that there are slip yoke eliminator kits available but they are expensive and i was wondering if its possible to convert to a flange style rear output by simply securing a flange to the existing output shaft? I figure that the end of the shaft could be drilled and tapped and a bolt could be used to secure a flanged yoke to the shaft.
 

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So I just picked up an NP241 and I know that there are slip yoke eliminator kits available but they are expensive and i was wondering if its possible to convert to a flange style rear output by simply securing a flange to the existing output shaft? I figure that the end of the shaft could be drilled and tapped and a bolt could be used to secure a flanged yoke to the shaft.
it's been done. Google hack-n-tap SYE ... i think it's kind of *******-y but seems to work

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I really have no problem with ******* mods if they work. Thanx for the search suggestion, I thought this should be possible.
 

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its not *******, its called "backyard engi-beer-ing"
drink a couple beers, get an idea, then finish it before you run out of beer, or before the beer store closes!
 

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well, i'm just not a fan of taking something not overly strong to begin with and drilling a hole in it ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't think its weak by any means, the OD of the tail shaft is 1.375" and the hole only needs to go in at most an inch. That hole will then be filled with a bolt and the slip yoke will increase the amount of metal holding up the drive shaft too. Your hack and tap google search suggestion lead me to this http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/drive_shaft_SYE.htm I highly doubt that even a half inch bolt hole in the end of the shaft will any serious affect on its overall strength. The SYE kits that are out there also shorten the shaft and are aimed at jeep guys with shorter wheel bases to help reduce their drive shaft angles.
 

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hmm perhaps not in that case. I was under the impression that a much longer hole had to be drilled and tapped for the bolt. Maybe i should just do this instead then, as i've been considering an SYE and longer driveshaft so I can raise the t-case skid plate on the TJ higher up .... hmmmm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The advantage for the jeeps to shorten the tail housing and output shaft is to make the drive shaft longer there by reducing the drive angles at the t-case and diff reducing the stress on the u joints.
 

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The advantage for the jeeps to shorten the tail housing and output shaft is to make the drive shaft longer there by reducing the drive angles at the t-case and diff reducing the stress on the u joints.
... which is what i said ... longer driveshaft lol :)
 

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I ran a hack-n-tap on my 4.7L stroker and never had problems, only went to an AA SYE because it was already installed on a built up case (with 4:1 and a wider chain) the hack-n-tap is a decent setup, just remember, most of the torque is transfered on the outer sections of the shaft, not the core (why in some industrial situations they actually use hollow shafts)
 
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