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Does any body know exactly what reamer I need that would have the same taper as the 1 ton rod ends. If so were is the best place to get one....part #???? Thanks
 

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Snap On Tools carries the exact tool you need. I dont remember the part number off hand though.

Its around $80 I think.
 

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Superfly
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AndrewH said:
snap-on parts # r121.

it is the 1/2-1" reamer
I think you mean 1.5" / foot. BTW, that reamer works but not very well. I think a proper, tapered spiral cutting bit would work better than that cleaning reamer from Snap-On. Of course, the correct bit would cost $$.

...lars



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The problem with machining the taper in with say a tapered endmill is the set up. If you were machining just arms it isn't that bad but if you had to set up knuckles on a mill it would be a PITA, plus you would still have to ream it to get a nice surface finish.

JP
 

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Sorry to confuse...

I wasn't suggesting a tapered end mill, I was suggesting that a proper reamer would work better in a drill press with some cutting fluid and a strong steady clamps to hold the knuckle in place. Also the cutting tools for special apps like this might be chaeper and more commonly available at a supplier that specializes in cutting metal not making crescent wrenches.
 

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I think Lars is the only one who had trouble with his reamer. Four people have borrowed mine and never had any complaints.
 

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Dan said:
I think Lars is the only one who had trouble with his reamer. Four people have borrowed mine and never had any complaints.
I also had troubles with the snap on reamer, I wrecked 2 of them doing 4 holes, but snap on should replace them for free.
 

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NOYFB said:


I also had troubles with the snap on reamer, I wrecked 2 of them doing 4 holes, but snap on should replace them for free.
Snap on should stick to making wrenches not cutting tools...
 

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well i pooched my reamer (going to call snap-on about that). the weirdest thing is it doesn't look at all damaged but it will not ream out a hole anymore.

ps, i used the reamer in a drill press and did not clamp the steering arm onto the plateform. according to machining experts you should not clamp the part down because the reamer will center the part by itself
 

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You can clamp the part once you have it centered, it doesn't take that much skill to start reaming and then lock the part in or one could hold it in a good size vise that can slide around on the table. I cant remember the last time I saw a machining center machine or ream a hole with out the part positioned in place and clamped. The snap on reamer is not designed for machine use, it is a hand reamer...the edges are dull from being run too fast, not enough cutting oil or too much non cutting (rubbing) and not enough feed to make large enough chips to allow the heat to disipate from the cutter. Cast iron can be hard on cutting tools...for $80 dollars you could by a brazed carbide or carbide tipped reamer that wont dull like the POS high speed steel reamer that snap on supplying, talk to people that specialize in cutting tools for machine shops and see if they have one that will match the taper GM uses on the tie rod end...

P.S. don't tell them you were using in a drill press they might just say too bad.

Is this the reamer you are using, if not what is the part number?
 

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Superfly
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desteurm said:
Cast iron can be hard on cutting tools...for $80 dollars you could by a brazed carbide or carbide tipped reamer that wont dull like the POS high speed steel reamer that snap on supplying, talk to people that specialize in cutting tools for machine shops and see if they have one that will match the taper GM uses on the tie rod end...
I'd like to know where you can buy one for that price. Any suggestions? KBC?

Is this the reamer you are using, if not what is the part number?
That's the fargin' bastitch! Snap-On R121

...lars



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lars said:

I'd like to know where you can buy one for that price. Any suggestions? KBC?


That's the fargin' bastitch! Snap-On R121

...lars
Hi Lars, can you tell me the taper/foot or degrees and I can see what I can get it for, usually I can get a deal if it will cross over to a morse taper which I am sure it will cross over. My comany uses many machine tooling suppliers for distributors so I can get an inside if it is a common type reamer. Give me the information and I can do the research and get something of higher quality!

Matt
 

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reamer snap-on p/n R-121 works very well, we have used it many times on our projects, chuck it in a Drill Press or Half inch drill, a lot of people disagree with its performance, but we have used it dozens of times, also it is easy to go too far, keep checking the taper with the tre, mark it with Tool makers die if need be,.
 

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desteurm said:
Hi Lars, can you tell me the taper/foot or degrees and I can see what I can get it for, usually I can get a deal if it will cross over to a morse taper which I am sure it will cross over
1.5" in 1 foot.

FYI, here are some other specs I collected from the 'net:
  • Big taper = .667-.776 (3/4 and one ton stuff with 7/8 -18, and ES375[
    '67-'72 1/2ton & 3/4ton GMC] with 3/4-16 and dog-leg))
  • Medium Taper = .636-.714 (moog ES150 with 3/4-16) FORD TRUCK F100/F250
    61-65GMC TRUCK K1500/K2500 63-66
  • Small taper (stock jeep XJ) = .531-.675

...lars



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Unfortunatly TRE tapers do not traslate into standard machine tool tapers. A Morse taper is 5/8"/ft, a Brown & Sharpe taper is 1/2"/ft, Jarno tapers are .600"/ft and ANSI self holding tapers range from .502"-.750"/ft. I will call around to a couple of my tooling suppliers and see if they can get automotive chucking reamers.

JP
 

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Well after a couple of phone calls it seems that the snap on reamer is your only source, unless you want to have a custom reamer made. If you want your steering arms machined for the taper I can set them up on my CNC and do them; unfortunatly I'm not too sure if I can do knuckles due to setup. But if some one were patient enough I may give it a try.

JP
 

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I think Caine (S.N.O.R.T.) made one by using a woodworking shaper bit (ie: a bit router blade) and grinding it down. Carbide wood cutting bits can be used on steel, can't they? I guess it depends on the precise mix of tungsten and carbide that the bit is made of, doesn't it?

...lars



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I've used chamfer router bits for milling aluminum. One could make a reamer from a HSS "D" bit or carbide bit if they had access to a cutter grinder with large enough collets and diamond wheel (for carbide grinding)

JP
 
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