[84toyota]

i am tring to get my front rotors off. i need to take off the front hub assembly. how do you get the cone washers off of the hub body to get it off?

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MULLET POWER

 

[Kent]

Get a 3lb hammer and a piece of brass (or steel, but brass is better) and hit the end of the studs. Depending on how tight they are it might only take a few hits with the hammer. The shock will pop the washers out, then pull them off with pliers. Youll have to hit them really hard.
btw, brass is better because it is softer than the studs and wont mangle the threads

 

[Doug]

tap the side of the hub body with a hammer repeatedly. You may have to give them some good smacks, just try not to smash the aluminum hub to much. You will also need a 54 mil socket.

It's big, expensive and can be hard to find.

 

[84toyota]

thanks for the help. i'll give that a try next week at school. i tried using a center punch like the book said but that just [email protected]#$^& up the threads.

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MULLET POWER

 

[kissmyaxle]

Originally posted by Doug:
tap the side of the hub body with a hammer repeatedly. You may have to give them some good smacks, just try not to smash the aluminum hub to much. You will also need a 54 mil socket.

It's big, expensive and can be hard to find.

i bought mine for 23.95 at lordco

why is that so expensive? for one socket, yes it is, but it's pretty fucking handy.

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Jeep. It's what's for dinner.

 

[Doug]

I'm not saying it isn't worth, I am just saying it's expensive. 24 bucks for a socket is expensive.

 

[84toyota]

what about using a cresent wrench. ill see if my school has the proper tool before i use that though.

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MULLET POWER

 

[Kent]

Even if you could find a crescent wrench that large, you might have a hard time getting on the nuts as it is set back in the hub a little.
Try it out though

 

[Doug]

How the heck are you going to torque the wheel bearings with a crescent wrench?

[This message has been edited by Doug (edited March 18, 2002).]

 

[Ottotek]

I am not sure if an early hub is the same as an 86 but it sounds like it is. If you look closely at the hub you will notice two threaded holes. The two holes are for metric bolts that when tightend into it force the hub out (cones and all), once the hub comes part way out back the bolts off and then tapp the hub in. The cones will stay in place and you can pull them off with pliers easily. This is the same way drums come off at the back.

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Me Tarzan u ? Favorite tool?
Monkey wrench!
I am the original shade tree mechanic

 

[edilonzo]

use a big screwdriver....flat blade and jam it on an angle between the nut and the hub, then turn the hub and itll grab and loosen the nut, works every time, even on 20 ton trucks!!!

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'81 yota, bobbed flt dck,22re,marlin,5.29,coils,locked and more

 

[84toyota]

i like that bolt idea, it seems easy.

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MULLET POWER

 

[Doug]

Funny even the genuine Toyota service manual at work says to hit the studs with a drift but doesn't mention a thing about the threaded holes. I am going to try that idea next time.

 

[bravenight]

did you get you hub apart?

Originally posted by Doug:
Funny even the genuine Toyota service manual at work says to hit the studs with a drift but doesn't mention a thing about the threaded holes. I am going to try that idea next time.

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"4x4s eat MORE BUSH!!!"

 

[lars]

Originally posted by Doug:
tap the side of the hub body with a hammer repeatedly. You may have to give them some good smacks, just try not to smash the aluminum hub to much. You will also need a 54 mil socket.

It's big, expensive and can be hard to find.

I'm pretty sure you can use a 2 1/8" spindle nut socket. They're relatively common at Lordco because that's what Jeeps, Scouts and I think Chevs use for their spindle nuts on the D44 axles. Cost is under $20 for the pressed steel ones (which is all you need, really).


...lars


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19911995409993004:144444.103512.58274

 

[Doug]

Hey bravenight, I never said I was trying. I have removed about ten of them using the B. F. Hammer approach though.

 

[84toyota]

im getting a whole new rebuilt front end with 5.29s. so i dont think i have to worry about my scored rotors anymore. i just have to throw the new axel on.

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MULLET POWER

 

[gumbom]

i bought mine for 23.95 at lordco

what? the told me that it was going to be like 54 bucks!!!

do you have a part # laying around???