Just wanted to know what to look for in a front axle before I go and by one. Have not been able to locate one from an 84 or 85 but have the opportunity to by one from an 82 or an 83. Any info would help. i.e. how to tell if the housing is straight.
There are some guys on the site here who have done a SAS and some other guys whoare in the process of doing one(Big Bad Pete) So ask them some questions and also go to the pirates of the rubican site(through the links thread)This is one of the bigger offroad sites and has alot to do with toyotas-these guys know alot of sh*t and would be one of your best sources along with this site.
Hope this helps.
85 Yota- 33 inch Thornbirds,3 inch trailmaster susp lift, smittybuilt bush bar,roll bar,8 offroad lights,insane pioneer stereo with 2 JL-10 inch subs in custom box,K&N air,new engine and of course a good'ol CB radio
-TRUCKS ARE MEANT TO BE RAISED NOT LOWERED-
Some people say that 84/85 is better, some say the earlier ones are better. I ended up buying complete front and rears from an 82 because they came with gears and a locker and the price was right. As for telling if the housing is straight or not I honestly have no idea, but I'm thinking I should check mine once someone tells us how
'86 Toyscrota, currently in too many parts to count.
"Pushing the limits of duct tape and zap straps every day."
Where is this extra gusseting besides the full lenght armour along the axle tube. That's the only thing i've seen different on the 84-85 axles compared to older models. I put an 83 axle into my 92. I added my own braces and gussets.
The guessing on the 84-85 is like Twigman said.It doesn't really make the axle much stonger than the earlier years.If you want to go a bit more beefier you could try an landcruiser front axle or cut down D44.Only thing beefier about crusier axles is the ring and pinions is bigger, axle shafts and briefield are same.I do know of an 85 frontend out here in the okanagan if you are intereted it is missing hubs though.
"Born and Bred To Rip and Shred"
The cruiser front axles are sweet. Not only do they have a bigger r+p their axles also have better heat treating which makes them stronger than mini's. I'm not a big fan of the chopped D44 swap. They cost $$$ and that inner u-joint always fails. If driven properly the cruiser axles will hold up to more abuse + you can get snap ring's welded to the birf and then their tough as nails.
If you're buying one I'd pull the axles out and have a look at the birfs and the 3rd. I know a guy whose brother's housing was so bent he had to pound the axles back in with a hammer. They leaked like a sive! That might give you a bit of an indication as to whether it's bent or not.
IFS- Shouldn't that be a four letter word?
Alot of talk about Birfield joints, does anybody remember the Birfield eliminator? I cannot remember who makes them, only the name. Also, I know that Spidertrax makes a birfield ring for Samurai's. Anyone know if they make them for Toys yet?
I don't understand why they are quoting Canadians to pay in U.S funds. It's happened to me and I didn't buy there because of that fact. I bought in the U.S! If I'm paying U.S greenbacks I'm gonna shop there.
Enough of my rant.
Anyhow, why don't you buy a whole parts truck and take what you need.
I bought a 77 for 500 bucks (canadian) and took the disc axle , parted the rest out and got a free axle out of the deal.
75 FJ40, 4 inch BDS springs, 1inch body, 35's, detroit EZ locker, power steering, disc brakes, 3spd low range gears, full cage, XD9000i, extended shackles, dual batteries....you get the idea.