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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Spring and Dana 60 Questions.

Hey guys I need help finding out what the MAXIMUM pinion angle I can run on a Dana60 rearend? I am trying to minimize driveshaft angles. I also was gonna try to run my Skyjacker springs with the frt. and rear Dana 60's and 39.5" Boggers but someone said I need to have heavier duty springs made? My thoughts on the diff angle are that if you give it a lot of pitch can you install a diff fill/drain plug higher on the diff cover? Has anyone ever tried drilling and taping a hole to add a fitting so you could use a pump to squirt more oil bye the pinion bearing; you could also use a frame rail style cooler to reduce heat. (this is a bit wild but just a thought) I would like to keep the T-Case up high for a good breakover angle. Any ideas or opinions greatly appreciated.

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87 YJ- 360cid Chevy,TH350 auto, Atlas2 (4.3 low range), 4"SkyJ. springs, 1" body, 1"S.R. w/buggy spring 33x14 Boggs. http://communities.msn.com/4WDSRodsMuscleCarsJeepsRule
 

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Seek out the front cover from a Ford Hi-pinion front dana 60, the oil level is higher on these axles and the fill plug is already moved up.
the other benifit is that they are 1/8 inch thick and less likely to dent than the thin steel stocker...
Another way to achieve the same effect (albeit a bit butch) is to thread a 3/4 inch street elbow into the cover with the opening facing up then you can thread the stock plug into the elbow. this will give you approx. 1 inch more oil in the diff.


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1948 WILLYS flatfender
Gradually becoming un-toyotafied.......Got 4.3???
http://www.ottindustries.com
 

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I don't have specific angle measurements to quote for you on this,
what I do is to measure the height from the floor to the bottom of the fill plug and then measure to the bottom of the front pinion bearing (back approx 1.5 inches from the front of the seal) as long as there will be oil sitting on the bearing at rest I wouldn't worry.
The design of the differential casting will force oil to the front of the housing to keep the bearings oiled.

Remember that the oil in the diff does three things, keeps the rollers in the bearings from having direct metal to metal contact,washes out any dirt or metal contamination from the bearing races, transfers heat from the moving parts of the bearings to the rest of the housing........
Also remember that when oil heats up it thins way out, this can lessen the effectiveness of the splash lubrication of the pinion bearings ( basically the design of the rear cover takes the oil that is forced centrifugaly off of the spinning ring gear and carries it up and along the casting (you can see the channel in the casting) and deposits it down into the pinion area ,gravity then pulls the oil down through the pinion bearings and back to the main pool of oil ))

If you find that the diff is heating up excessivly try switching to a thicker oil ( 90-w-140 etc..) this stuff seems to hold together under extreme temps .......

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1948 WILLYS flatfender
Gradually becoming un-toyotafied.......Got 4.3???
http://www.ottindustries.com

[This message has been edited by ChrisOlson (edited January 12, 2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I was told you are supposed to turn the diffs pinion towards the output on the T-Case minus a little for deflection. I have done this and some guy told me it is at to high of an angle to properly lubricate. I have several guys say w/ a CV driveshaft you can turn the diff 60Degrees and one guy said as much as 75Degrees. My diff looks like it will be probably 30-40 Degrees up which looks like the oil might not "soak" the frt. of the housing but I just thought this is the way it is done. I figure the oil shooting up on it is enough. Like I say I am worried about ruining my new axle and gears! Maybe I should use a high capacity alluminum cover to help cool the oil better? Or should it be fine how it is? THANKS FOR your help!

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