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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the best way to remove the t-40 windsheild and hinge bolts?

I broke three torx drivers including what I thought was a top-of-the-line Snap-On bit. I haven't damaged or stripped the stubborn bolt yet, but tool breakage sucks.
 

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Superfly
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Rude said:
What's the best way to remove the t-40 windsheild and hinge bolts?
If you don't want to use heat...

Use an impact driver (the thing you hit with a hammer to force it to turn while pushing against the bolt/screw). You can try this with a torx bit. If that doesn't work and the torx pattern in the bolt gets ruined, use a Dremel tool to cut a notch into the bolt and then use a large slot head bit with the impact driver.

Crappy Tire sells the impact driver, as does Lordco and many other places.

Oh, and use some kind of penetrating fluid as well. Also try tapping on it with a hammer and a solid round bar. Make sure the end of the bar is wide enough that it won't wreck the torx pattern. The tapping helps to loosen the threads.


...lars



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Seeing as it's on the windshield and therefore painted, I want to shy away from heat.

I'm using liquid wrench on it all day today, so hopefully when I get home, that will help a bit. (I'll take the bfh to it as well)

You're right about taking an impact driver to it. My biggest worries were wrecking another good bit, or the impact driver completely demolishing the bolt.

I don't own an impact driver yet as I'm still waiting for my lordco card (a la 4wdabc).

Would it be a good idea to take it to a shop and say "remove this, please."? There's no Jeep dealer up here, but in terms of liability, what happens if you take your rig to a shop and they **** up? (ie: use a blow-torch on the paint, or completely wreck the bolts without being able to remove them) Thx again.
 

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Superfly
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Rude said:
You're right about taking an impact driver to it. My biggest worries were wrecking another good bit, or the impact driver completely demolishing the bolt.
Home Depot's Husky brand bits are guaranteed for life. :D

If you ruin the bolt with an impact driver, the odds are that it wasn't going to come out via conventional means anyway. That's why Plan B calls for a Dremel tool.

The Dremel would also be useful for grinding the paint off the bolt for Plan Ba: welding a long piece of steel to it, or another bolt to it. Besides giving you something easier to grab onto the Torx bolt with, it will also impart a lot of heat to the bolt which may loosen it.


Would it be a good idea to take it to a shop and say "remove this, please."? There's no Jeep dealer up here, but in terms of liability, what happens if you take your rig to a shop and they **** up? (ie: use a blow-torch on the paint, or completely wreck the bolts without being able to remove them) Thx again.
They would probably stop short of doing any damage simply because the risk vs. the $20 they'd charge you is too high. So, unless the mechanic is extremely sure of how to do the job, he is probably not going to take any chances and may, in fact, just tell you he can't do it.

...lars



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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Perfect. you sound like you've done this many times before :D

Last question: Seeing as it sounds like I'll be 'wrecking' a few along the way, where can I get a bag of new bolts? (Preferably the same size, thread, etc) I'm sure you can find a big honking Jeep 'kit' or something. I'd like to have a few spares around before I start grinding or welding away.
 

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Superfly
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Rude said:
Perfect. you sound like you've done this many times before :D
Oddy enough, I've never had this problem with my windshield bolts. They came out w/o fuss.

One time I had a problem with a tailgate Torx bolt but the Dremel approach fixed it.


Last question: Seeing as it sounds like I'll be 'wrecking' a few along the way, where can I get a bag of new bolts? (Preferably the same size, thread, etc) I'm sure you can find a big honking Jeep 'kit' or something. I'd like to have a few spares around before I start grinding or welding away.
Sorry but I don't recall the size of bolt required. I used off-the-shelf bolts...they were Grade 8 but totally unnecessary. Grade 5 is fine. Any store up there that has a decent bolt selection should be able to replace what you have.

The fly in the ointment, of course, is that those bolt holes are shouldered, or tapered. I only replaced two bolts on each hinge because I built some light brackets that would use the same bolt holes. If you're replacing them all, you might be better off locating some shouldered bolts. Call Gemini and see if their Olympic stainless steel windshield hinges come with stainless steel bolts. If they do, then perhaps Olympic will sell you just the bolts?

A marine shop might also have them since they frequently make use of these bolts on those tie downs (don't know the correct term).

...lars



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Basic Baboon
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In addition to what Lars suggested, when you put the new bolts in, use a bit of anti-seize, so you can get 'em out again next time.

Also, when you're removing the bolts, you don't need to get them very far out (like, half to one full turn) before you can use a pair of vice grips around the head to finish turning 'em out. This'll help save your Torx bit, and a lot of cussing.
 

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Hey RUDE, try Pacific Fastners in Burnaby. They will have the bolts you are looking for in stainless. mudder2
(604) 294-9411
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Allright. I took an impact driver to it and wrecked ANOTHER bit.

I also fscked the bolt.

Now to find a buddy with a dremel.

Looks like I'll be giving Pacific Fastners a call soon.
Mudder2: Have you ever gotten bolts through them?
 

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pacific fasteners

I believe you are talking about b.c. fastener(they changed their name? ) we were looking for some 4-40x3/4 machine screws and out of 8 places we went to,these are the only guys that had them.they will be the first place I go to next time.
 

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i have a dremel but you are a bit too far i think.
 

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The Snap-On bit is also warrantied for life, if you broke it that means the bolt was not meant to come out.
I broke four el-cheapo bits and twisted the Snap-on bit trying to remove a friends windshield bolts. I finally welded a piece of solid round stock onto it to get me a little further away and then welded a big nut onto it. I think the heat of the welding helped too, with this combination it turned right out with my 1-1/8" wrench.

Dan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jeepasaurus - It's only a 3-4 hour drive!

Dan - I gave the Snap-On bit to my father. He loves replacing Snap-On tools. He goes apesihit on them for fun.

I think I should come up with a name for this bolt. It is not coming out. It's could be a fun party trick though. I can show up for different trail runs and watch as all you gearheads break your torx bits trying to take it out. :D

I really need to get this mother out.
 

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Superfly
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Rude said:
I think I should come up with a name for this bolt. It is not coming out. It's could be a fun party trick though. I can show up for different trail runs and watch as all you gearheads break your torx bits trying to take it out. :D

I really need to get this mother out.
If you're ever in the Surrey area, bring it over and I'll weld a bolt to it.

...lars



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It can be done...

I second the welding "something" onto the bolt approach...

I had similar issues on my YJ with both the windshield hinges and the roll bar-windshield brace... in both cases I used a piece of flat bar and welded on either side of it, by doing this the heat remained localized to the bolt and didn't damage the paint. At the end of the day it came off very easily because of the amount of heat absorbed by welding the flat bar onto the torx bolt.

If you’re worried about splatter then mask off the area. I used multiple layers of masking tape and an old damp rug over the hood...

Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
lars said:

If you're ever in the Surrey area, bring it over and I'll weld a bolt to it.

...lars
That would give us a chance to put my body lift on too. haha
 

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Dude, I feel for you, same problem when I tried to change out my speakers and tried to take those bolts off. I went through 2 Torx bits, and one Rightline's (Poor man's SnapOn), bit. Bolt lived though, although I didn't reuse it afterwards.

Ended up using a mini torch on it (about 2-3 minutes - very low heat), then cooled it down with a small amount of liquid propane when I turned the torch off, removed the end, and held a 500Ml tank unside down next to it, and opened it up again (nice very cold wetshoot) on the bolt. It didn't ruin the paint as I didn't over heat it, nor did the flame touch the paint - but it was most definately hot to the touch before the LP got to it. After the LP dripped all over it, it was ice cold (condensation), but the surrounding area was still reasonably warm. It did discolor the bolt a bit, and where the LP ran down, it did leave a slight discoloration, but nothing really that I could notice after a couple of wheel'n trips, and it buffed off.

Nobody died, and the bolt came out like if it wasn't even tightened to begin with (a minor snap, and some grinding). I've used Marine Grade Neverseaze on it, but havn't tried to get to them since.

I wouldn't recommend this though unless you feel VERY aware of what you are doing, only pore a very small amount in a controlled manor, no fire/electrical anywhere, and do not use excessive heat.

Use a dust all (any electrical shop), and hold it upside down instead - not as cold, but you won't blow yourself up either. I tried ice first, but it didn't cool the bolt down fast enough to loosen it.

axle.

ps - I have easy outs, taps & dies if you need anything, but I'm also from Coquitlam
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Welding sounds the best. I think If I get off work early I'll go down to the local machine shop/welding place with a case of beer (ok, a six-pack. I'm cheap) and see if someone will weld a bolt on and remove it for me. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who's broken bits on these things.

Btw, has anyone found the name of the guy that decided to use Torx patterns on Jeeps yet?
 

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Welding sounds nice, but it's going to make quiet a mess on your paint, even if you have the best welder in the world. And welding will WEAKEN the bolt even more. If it's really messed up, drill it out (all the way through - you don't want to know what will happen if the easy-out breaks, and use an easy-out on it. Tap it out to clean it, die your bolt if it's still in one peace, never-seaze, and reinstall.

But, if you've never used an easy-out, don't drill far enough, too small of a hole/easy-out, or if you really mess up the angle of the drill bit, easy-outs can be your worst nightmares if you do them wrong, or use cheap ones. Welding can save you a lot of pain if you don't know how to use an easy out, but it's messy (or at least my work is :) ).

One piece of advice if you do go easy-out... and never forget it... drill all the way through, even if it's too small for the easy out. Drill, drill, and drill as much as you can without touching the treads (leave some for the easy-out). Do not exceed what the easyout recommends for the size of bolt.

You rather want the bolt to keep breaking - trust me, it's much, MUCH more desirable then having the easy out break. You break it, it will have to be torched out, or pushed out from the other side. Good luck drilling it out.

Lastly, if you have the money, or more accurately, don't want to spend the money on repairs, get yourself some reverse-cut drill bits. These are specifically designed for removing ****ty bolts with snapped heads. They even come with a guild for your drill bits (the expensive ones do). I've never used them, but hear they make life quite easy.

axle.

ps - my first experience with an easy out, was on a yoke with a busted bolt. I didn't drill all the way in, and the easy-out broke. I had to pull the yoke, drill from the other side, and tap out the easy out. Re-drill, get a new easy out, and take out the bolt, in 3 pieces as it keep breaking apart. But, never had problems with it since. And trust me - you don't want to be weldling anything near a yoke. Since then, I've lost 3 more bolts, 2 in my rollbar during a roll over (very easy recovery), and 2 bolts on my motor mount - again, easy-outs, but very carefully for obvous reasons.

ax.
 
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