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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
95 Suburban IFS Delete!

Copied over from Overland Canada:

First some history:

After my 93 Burb was stolen and taken to Stave to end her life (Story Here) I was in the market for a new beginning, my 95 full load bling bling:


Not too long after the purchase came the IFS lift, some 35” KMs rock sliders, rear bumper and tire carrier all from the ‘93


We then added Super Swamper LTBs, a Warn 8274 VHF and a rack of other goodies.




But now the time has come to go full out! . . . Well as much as the wallet will let me. . . LOL!

The Plan:
79 High Pinion Dana 60 cut and turned.
14 Bolt Full floater rear
42" or 40" Good Year MTRs
ARBs front and rear and 5.13:1 gears
Skyjacker Softride 52” Leafs in the front with 4” lift = 8” + 6” brackets yields 14” of lift
Custom made 64” leafs in the rear 8” lift + Shackle Flip + 6” HD ORD Shackles
Rear discs and Driveline emergency brake
Rebuild the NP241 with SYE and 513 Double Cardans
Rebuild the trany with H.D. upgrades high stall torque converter and shift kit
Pro Comp MX6R Shocks, Cross over with 1 Ton Drag-link ends, Hydro assist, Blah Blah Blah . . . .

Here is the outcome:



And the build:

So a road trip to 100 Mile House last year to get the axles, Shackle Flip cross over and a few other parts from a well known and well built truck from Langley at:

I sure hope that doesn’t stand for “Grand Theft”!

The Axles:


Hoping the little trailer can handle the weight (It didn’t)


The Shackle Flip Bracket:


Ready for the trip home (poor poor little TJ)


And then they sat for a year until I was able to get all the re-build parts together:




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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
So while the difs are chilling I started making the ½” thick U-bolt plates:




And some Big Ass Jack Stands, to reach under side of frame they need to be 36" tall


The makeshift work station, as the axles are taking up too much room in my little 12' x 20' shop:


And a little child labour to get them painted with industrial Urethane:


Next up, dismantling the axles and cleaning all the parts:


Poor man's parts washer:


Cleaned, primed and ready for paint:


Now that all the Bling is here we'll ship off all the axle parts to be re-assembled. A job I'm not ready to take on myself when a friend of mine has been doing it professionally for years.


While we wait for the difs we can start getting a few other parts ready.

Ruff Stuff rear Calliper Bracket:


Grinding Bracket to fit the calliper:


There we go, now it fits:


Skyjacker 52" springs arrive. But there's an issue with getting the right Urethane bushings. I won't get into that here right now.


Overloads and degree shims removed:


Torching out the rubber bushings:

I just left it there burning while I sat back and drank beer. Works good! :beer_cheers:

Rear springs with 8" lift on bottom, Stock leafs with a 2" add-a-leaf on top:


Next we finally get started on the truck it's self . . . . . . . . . . . .



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
And Finally we start on the truck. Hmmmm, how do you safely jack it up 3 feet in the air??? This worked super well, good thing I didn't let the kids burn the old cedar posts like I was going to.


Tight fit but it works on a budget:


IFS spaghetti all gone, Nice kick Ass stands!!!


Rear axle, suspension and gas tank gone:


Wow that's a lot of crap:


and the pics don't even show the old difs.

Next, get rid of all the stamped thin as tin brackets:


Cut cut grind grind:


That's better, ready for some wire wheeling and paint:


And putting some of the kids back to work:



I bet they'll think twice before saying "I'm Bored!" . . . LOL!

And the difs are back, still need paint . . . . "Kids" he yells with excitement "I've got something for you to do":


A little mock-up before I let the brushes rip:


14 Bolt painted and ready for install:


Nice job kids! . . . . Thanks again!


Rounded off the bottom lip of the 14 Bolt to help slip over rocks, with 42" tires I didn't think I needed to shave it:


And back at it this weekend, clean up the frame and get a coat of undercoating on it, Cut off the front cross member and possibly weld a new one in, and get the rear axle hung to see if I need to re-locate the spring perches (I already bought some in case) or maybe a couple degrees of shimming will get me a good pinion angle.



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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I've been looking forward to this 3 day weekend for such a long time, a great opportunity to get some real progress.

Unfortunately I found that Sudafeds and Vodka do not mix! After having a head cold all week and cutting loose Friday night with some friends that were camping out at our place for the weekend, I spent Saturday in bed until 2:00pm feeling like I was going to die. And after I did get up nothing happened to the truck that day.

Sunday feeling better with no drink or meds. Did a bunch or wire wheeling to the flakey stuff on the frame and rear X-members and did a first coat of undercoating prior to getting the 14Bolt in there.

Made a little bed on dollies to roll the difs out of the shop and under the truck. Worked Awesome:


Hung the dif from the frame so as to get jack stands under her:


Bolted up the front of the springs to the factory hangers and U-bolted to the axle:


5/8" U-bolts and 1/2" Plates should do the trick:


Can you say "BEEF"


Here's were I'm missing a few pics, placed a support on the back of the leafs and lowered the Burb complete with about 400 - 500 Lbs of cargo to compress the springs at ride height and get an eye to eye measurement. Once I got that I knew where to set the rear shackle hanger to get the 6" shackle somewhere between 70 and 80 degrees, hoping that when they settle in the shackles will be between 60 and 70 degrees.

Armed with our measurement we raised the truck and located the shackle hanger measuring from front bracket to rear bracket ensuring both sides were exactly the same measurement. Drilled 2 of the 4 holes on each one and bolted them in, hooked up the HD ORD 6" Shackles, lowered the truck bounced her a few times and came up with 75 degrees on the left side and 58 degrees on the right . . . WTF! . . . I was done for the night I had guests to visit at the fire and a cold beer waiting . . . . I'll look at it better in the morning.

Morning rolls around after me having weird shackle nightmares all night, grabbed my coffee and sat down with assistant and measuring tape again. Dimensions from bracket to bracket were out by 1/8", not enough to make 17 degrees difference in 6". Then check the key measurements, center of spring eye to center of shackle pivot bolt, 3/8" from left to right. . . BINGO!

Jacked the Burb up again, removed the right hanger, welded the 2 holes up and re-located the hanger measuring from center to center. Here's the results:

Right side:


74 Degrees!


Left side:


74 Degrees!


Wow, already settled in 1 degree! . . . LOL!

Drilled and bolted the remaining 1/2" bolts and it was time to start packing up. Hopefully I can make up some lost time over the next few weekends, and stay away from the meds and Vodka!

A few more pics of the final set up:




So now that I've seen the height of the truck sitting on the rear axle (and center of axle will be 4" higher yet with 40" tires) I'm starting to second guess the amount of lift I'm doing, not too sure how practical this truck is going to be. Time will tell.



Here's one last pic from a distance to put things into perspective:


And I'm looking at a set of 40" MTRs in Vernon now to save a few bucks from buying 42" on-line. The dollars dropping again and this is a big purchase.



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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well not a Huge amount of exciting news to report from another weekend of working on the Burb. But forward progress none the less.

Had to notch part of the Dana 60 for the U-bolt to fit threads up:



Cut off the unwanted brackets finished wire wheeling and gave her 2 coats of paint:



Cross over steering arm:


And 1350 Yokes all around:


Cut out the front cross member to clean things up a bit and make room for the cross over steering and for the leafs to flex and the big axle to be able to tuck up under full compression.

Layout on the front:


And the rear:


And cut out 99%:





Before and after:



More scrap:


When I'm all done I'm going to take all the scrap steel melt it down and make a Toyota! :lol:

Next weekend I'll weld in a 1/8" steel brake-shape to box it all in.

Had to remove the steel sleeves from the new front springs. All the research I've done makes this look like a PITA. I've never seen any posts on welding a washer in the sleeve then pressing them out so I gave it a shot, only I didn't use my press, I just used my vise a deep socket and my BFH cause I had no place to put my beer down over by my 20 Ton Press and I didn't know how to hold the leafs and operate the press with one hand.

Spot Welded washer:


Socket ready for a pounding:


Beer in left hand BFH in Right hand:


Worked great:


And a dry run fit of the shackles, poly bushings and DOM sleeves that I had to get Stephen from Off Road Design in Colorado to make for me as I couldn't find any 3/4" x .083" DOM locally.


Time now for a fit up of the Sky Mfg. front spring hanger/cross member after drilling out some mounting holes:


Placed it 1" forward more than all the other SAS builds, center of front axle should be forward 2" from stock. Cause the Suburban wheelbase just isn't long enough!


There's 6" more lift for ya:


The cross member is designed to be temporarily bolted in place then welded to the bottom of the frame.

I don't like all the lateral forces just welded to the bottom of a flimsy frame horn as seen above. I'm going to weld a 1/4" bracket to the top of the member and use three 1/2" bolts per side into the frame with a 1/4" steel backing plate inside the frame. Something like this:



More dry fitting:




I also can't believe guys use this spring hanger on trucks that do see off road use. The spring hangers are completely free to move side to side causing all kinds of problems not to mention FAILURE!

I would never use this part of the Sky kit again.

So this is what I did to help me sleep at night and not worry about breaking:






Much better! IMO:


Next weekend, Putting the front axle in if all goes well. I'll be skipping the 4WDA Stave Lake clean-up to do that. But Kris my fiancée will be there!



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I checked out the steering box area and It's already Sleeved. Plating the frame will be a bit of a project as both sides are dimpled. We'll just keep an eye on it and build a bracket if need be.

So this last weekend we did not meet my Ultimate expectations, but we did get about 4 hours away. A lot of time was spent on fabricating cross members again.

1st on the list was getting the factory trimmed one boxed in and finished:

Kelly, above you can see the modded Y-pipe you need for your build.

Fit all the pieces in and fully welded:


And the back side:


On to the front spring hanger cross member, last weekend I gusseted up the front and this weekend I figured to build a solid Battle Cruiser we better do the back side as well (Overkill never hurt anyone!):



And dry fit to measure things up. Notice the factory cross member on the Left? Looks Bling and , well, factory!!! The way it should be for a solid axle:


Well, The following measurements were taken all from the front spring eye bolt,

1. Two sets of identical holes on each side of the frame = Bang on parallel!
2. To the Trany cross member and the one behind that = 1/4" out of parallel
3. To the rear axle = 1/4" the other way!!! So we split the difference and left it were it was! A little Dog tracking will add Character!

Welded 2 brackets to the top of the x-member and bolted in place with 3 - 1/2" grade 8 bolts per side with 3/16" backing plates welded inside the frame rails:



This 1/4" steel plate (2 of) was used inside the X-member were it bolts to the bottom of the frame to "lock" it in place:


Looking up in there:


And fully bolted in place:

The space between the X-member and the Radiator I'm hoping I can fit a Warn 15,000 LB winch in there.


Oh Look! After thought! I can weld another plate to both ends and bolt it through the bumper bracket! That will yield 8 - 1/2" bolts per end!!! TOTAL OVERKILL! I'll add that later:



Why do I own a 20 ton press when I always use the vise or clamps for pressing stuff? Must make a beer holder for the press!

So we "pressed" all the Poly bushings and DOM sleeves in with some good old Silicone Grease and got the leafs all ready to bolt in:


And bolted them in with 1/16" Stainless Steel washers on each side of the Poly bushings:



GUESS WHAT CAME NEXT????
THE BIG MONEY!

(building a Dana 60 is not cheep)

Recap, full rebuild with Yukon parts, 5:13 gears, ARB locker, Warn Hubs, all new King Pins, Bearings, Seals, Cut and Turned.



Dif cover not painted as I need to relocate the filler plug after I can level off from the center of the pinion. Don't want to starve the pinion bearing now do I?

Pics of the pinion angle to follow:


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hoisting the 1-Ton up there, I've been waiting to do this for like 5 years now:


Passenger side bolts in:


Child labor bolting in the Driver's side (Were did I leave my whip? hurry up there slow poke!):


I knew there was a reason I have more than one trolley jack:


Holly Chit there is a lot of space between the truck and axle:

Right, the truck's still on stands!


Love this view:


Finally the driver's side is done, Oh I see why it took him so long, the larger U-bolt is too long! Need to order a shorter one:


OOOOPS! breather hose is too short!

j/k I knew that!

1 bolt in single sheer through the frame should be good to hold the spring in place:

Yes I'm kidding again, next weekend I'll set-up the shackles. (I hope)

And the pinion angle:

This is looking good! I might be able to stay with the 513 U-Joints. I was thinking of going 410 but I hope this works.

View front the back of the front hangers. Don't see anything in the way of flex!


Dang! I ran out of time and forgot to get an overall view of the front, I'll edit that in next week!


WEEEEEEEEE I'M Getting Gitty Like A School Girl!

I think I'm going to explode!



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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well a little more progress has been made.

Since I'm using 52" front springs the inside of the frame rails needed to be boxed in a bit further back from where the shackle hanger will be installed. so we start with the cardboard template to trace out on the 3/16" steel plate:




And a perfect fit after a little grinding:


Placed the bracket in place to mark out the bird mouth:


And set the boy loose with the cutting disk:


And welded in place (I know the welds look like crap. The gas wasn't on at first and I couldn't fit my head under there well with the helmet on. Damn truck wasn't high enough to sit under it and it was too high to reach if I was lying down.)


And welds ground smooth and bracket in place:


And the other side with the rear heater lines in the way:


And the shackle greased up and installed again with Stainless Steel fender washers on the ends of the Poly bushings:


Set shackle angle to 80 degree hoping it won't settle to more than 60 degree:


Truck is now sitting on both axles, first time since she went under the knife. Not too happy with the pinion angle though, I was hoping it was turned more than this:


Truck is sitting at a more realistic height now and the springs have flattened out nicely. Rocked it back and forth by hand and it feels very flexy on the front, Just what I wanted!


Now, I had a previous concern when I set the rear shackle angle. from were I had the chassis stands located on the front I was concerned how much vehicle weight was cantilevered off the front. As it turned out, quite a bit. my rear shackle angle has gone to poop! I should have done the rear last but needed the axle out of my way. Lesson learned!


So time to remove the rear shackle flip brackets again and move them back:


A little frustrated with having to do this I though out the trigonometry and pushed the brackets back as far as I could (3") and moved the hanger to the front hole:




About 80 degrees. Let's hope the rears settle in more than the fronts:



Sitting on the axles finally!


Had to remove the rear brake hard line to replace and I came up with this ingenious idea to collect the fluid without me sitting there to catch all the drips:


And got Chandler busy wire wheeling all the steering components to ready them for paint:


Next weekend I'll be in Tulameen for almost a full week. Need to pull the T-case to re-build, SYE and e-brake, set up the steering, brakes, plumb the ARBs (thanks for the compressor Kelly!), fabricate the shock mounts and measure drive line.

The budget's not allowing for the Pro Comp MX6R's right now so I'm thinking of Bilstein 5150s for now.

I'll try and post something up mid week if I can find an unsecured internet connection.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So with 1 week of holiday time I was hoping to get lots accomplished on the truck, but it was not in the cards, nor did the guy from Vernon call with the 40 MTRs for sale. Now I find out that if I order from Good Year they are 1 month behind in back orders. Damn, I need tires for August long weekend.

Lots of visitors stopping over during last week in Tulameen, Lone Ranger, 4lo and Bushpiggy from BC4x4 also Bob from the BC4x4 Whipsaw run last year just out on his own, and of course the annual soupopera crowd running the Whipsaw and beyond run.

So the first weekend with Matt and 4lo there we were able to get the T-case out and install the SYE and Drive-line brake.

Thanks guys for doing the grunt work!

NP241C:


Partly cleaned up:


Slip yoke off and case opened up:


Nice to see everything was in great shape inside.

Shafts, gears and chain removed:


Stock main shaft removed and new short shaft installed with the red Ano Bling oil seal retainer:



Install the brake bracket:



Tried to install the disc and flange but the flange will not fit through the bracket:


At this point Lone Ranger and 4lo are convincing me that we've got the wrong parts and I'm going to have to call High Angle Drive-line on Monday and tell them they fudged up.

Fortunately my fiancée took LR wheeling the next day and 4lo took off to meet the BC4x4 crew leaving me and my stubborn persistent attitude to "Make it Work"

As I don't have a milling machine yet I improvised:


The sanding drum was working good but too slow, so I switched to a carbide mill end:


Gotta love my $75 Drill Press! about 30 minutes and a few beers later she fit perfect:




The next day we walked over to my neighbor's scrap pile and found a busted 208 with front flange, just what I need for my 1350 CV:


A new coat of paint and a perfect fit:


I was going to go with a 1350 high angle front CV but as I found out today when I placed the order for my shafts that this front shaft would cost me $1100!!! So it's a standard 1350 CV and limiting straps for now.

Now the T-case is all done I grabbed some help from Bushpiggy and LR to put her back in:



Nice fit and I didn't need to use the BFH to clearance the floor boards:




I mocked up a stock Blazer 1310 CV from Reaper to see if we'll have any clearance problems on the Trany cross member or T-Case shifter. I think it'll be fine:




Almost makes it, but is maxed out in droop angle and the axle will droop out about another 6" from this pic (Ride Height)



Next on to brakes and stuff. . . . .


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
With the T-Case done it was time to paint up some more parts (I had no kids with me that were interested in doing this):





Steering box is all ported for Hydro Assist:


I like that my buddy ported the parts that could be swapped over to a new box when the need arises:



Steering box back in with Drop Pitman arm and Drag link with 1-Ton Chevy ends in 1 1/4" DOM:





Tie-Rod installed but the tapers did not fit tight! This Tie-Rod is from an '80's F-350 so maybe a different taper?


As I had to go to the coast on Thursday to pick up 3 of my kids I ordered a new Spicer Tie-Rod. $300!!! but fits nice:



On to getting some brakes.

Fronts were no problem. SS lines from Off Road Design fit nice:


Using the front calipers from a GMC 3/4 Ton 4x4 part of the protective ring around the Banjo bolt needs to be remove to have the lines run up over the leafs:



Oops! I just torqued all the rear U-Bolts and now I'll need to remove them and the plates to install calipers. And every time I do a brake job?



Well it works:


Right side done:




Now to notch out the LEFT caliper:



See anything wrong here? I didn't until I went to install it:


I was given 2 RIGHT side calipers!

1 hour wasted with wire wheel and lacquer thiner to remove all the paint so I could return it!

On to the mess of hard lines at the MC. With all the Anti lock crap removed all the lines look like the snakes in Mike's girlfriend's hair in the movie Monster's Inc.



Fabricated a funky little bracket for the adjustable proportioning valve for the rear discs:



Spent almost all day bending twisting and flaring brake lines. What a slow process:



And done:



Meanwhile I had Chandler ripping out all the A/C crap and the Aluminum heater hoses so we could re-route them away from the shackle hanger and at the same time fix some leaks that have popped up, maybe from a wayward grinder.

This manifold will be re-used with rubber hose and clamps, I like old school stuff.


Room for another battery:




We'll run the hoses on top and on the outer side of the frame away from the exhaust.


Fabbed up a quick bracket with welded studs for the ARB compressor:




Handy location. I'll weld the bracket in next weekend:




Also had my assistant wire wheel, Tremclad and under coat the top side of the gas tank:

Next weekend he can do the bottom.

It was still too cold at night to leave freshly painted parts outside to dry so they made a great centerpiece at dinner time:


Today I ordered my 1350 CV shafts with .125" wall from Pat's in Port Kells and I ordered 1 pair of Pro Comp MX6R shocks for the front and a pair of Bilstien 5150s for the rear.

All I need now is 40" or 42" Tires and Black crawler Steel Wheels. . . . . . Anyone?


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well after 8 weeks of trying to negotiate a deal with this guy in Vernon for some new 40" MT/Rs we finally got his number and through many text messages found ourselves meeting him Saturday early afternoon in a Petro Pass parking lot, I just love these kinds of deals. Sure enough he's there in his Flat Black Dodge truck with a buddy as well. I hate buying stuff out of the back of guy's trucks, but what the heck.



Tires all secured in Steve Dillen's trailer ready for the drive back to Tulameen:


Once back home (with a MAJOR Sun Burn!) I had to compare the 40" MT/Rs with the 33"s on the TJ:


Hmmm, 6 wheel drive Jeep?

Now that's some seriously tall tire:


And just had to mock them up under the Burb:


Still room for 42" tires:


I see the local kids are starting to paint graffiti on the work shop:

CHANDLER!

Sunday (In a lot of Pain) I started tying up some loose ends, literally cleaned up and fastened some loose wires and hoses in the engine compartment and hooked up new breather tubes to the difs and installed the painted front dif cover.

ARB and 5.13:1 gears:


All sealed up and looking Bling!


Finished the hard lines and installed the front brackets and Stainless lines.

Left side:


Right side:


And now finished the Left rear:


Started securing the rear Stainless lines but I need to get some better clamps, I don't like the cheep ones that came with the kit:



Confirmed today that the Rear Bilstien 5051 shocks will arrive tomorrow and the Front Pro Comp MX6Rs will be here Wednesday. I still need to confirm with Desert Rat that my wheels have shipped and the last thing will be the drive shafts from Pat's on Friday.









One last pic to remember. . . . . . . . . . . .





















SMART CARS BEWARE!!!!!



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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, TheCANDY MAN came to town today. Or more correctly, I met him at Taco Del Mar (Run for the boarder):







UNVEILED:













And tomorrow I get to go GRAB MY SHAFTS!


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well these little odds and ends that need to be cleaned up before starting the truck are sure taking longer than I ever imagined. That and I’m getting tired spending every weekend crawling around under this thing constantly bashing my head.

Anyways, enough complaining, I’ll leave my pity party behind me.

I had my oldest son Gareth with me this weekend to help out, I don’t think I would have gotten half this stuff done without him. Thanks again buddy!

First thing we started on was finishing the heater hoses. The front hose off the water pump started leaking from the truck sitting for a few months so we replaced the fittings there.

The hoses running to the rear heater ran through some aluminum pipes that would interfere with the passenger side shackle hanger so we cut out all the aluminum pipes and replaced them with ¾” hose and re-routed them away from the exhaust and shackles.

I thought I had some pics of this but I guess not, you can see in some of the pics below the new hoses in the back ground.

Also as you can see in the pics below I fully welded the shackle hangers to the frame. Shackle angle is settled in to 65º which is perfect. If the springs settle more over time I can always unbolt the front cross member, weld the holes closed on the frame, and move the cross member forward to get the shackle angle back.

After getting the rear hoses completed we filled the rad with coolant only to find a nice size split in another hose for the front heater core. It’s possible this was caused when removing the hoses. So we replaced that hose as well, topped off the coolant and found the fittings on the back side of the intake manifold now leaking. Man this is starting to piss me off! I’m hoping these little leaks will seal up again once we start using the engine. I just left it alone as I don’t have any more fitting to replace it, and after about 30 minutes of dripping it magically stopped, guess we’ll just keep an eye on this as well.

Cut out a deeper and wider slot in the bulkhead of the master cylinder to provide sufficient fluid to the rear brakes due to the disc conversion:


Painted up the front 1350 Double Cardin shaft:


And the rear 1350 CV shaft with 3” x 1/8” thick tube, just in case we encounter some big rocks:


Had Gareth paint and undercoat the rest of the gas tank and the skid plate. Will I really need a skid plate on the tank?


Now onto fixing the oil leaks at the filter housing. We removed the cooler lines, pulled out the housing cleaned it and replaced it with new O-ring and gaskets. When installing the cooler lines I noticed the internal seals looked different from one line to the next. Thought maybe because of the difference in the direction of oil flow and put it back together, filled the engine with new oil and when I drained the old oil out of the pan into the used oil jug I found the missing seal. ARGH!

Pulled the oil lines back out and broke one of the plastic retainers! Double ARGH! Tried some of the retainers from the heater hoses but they are different sizes, so now we wait till I get a new retainer from GM. This was typical to how the last couple of weekends were going. I’m so looking forward to getting this thing done.

Now on to the exhaust, I needed to raise the passenger side about 1 inch to clear the shackle hanger. I’ll start by just cutting a 1” piece out of a straight section and see what other tweaks will need to be done.

Marked the pipe to be cut:


After cutting I tack welded it back together and we did a dry fit. Looked fairly good so I welded it up, wow is this metal thin on the head pipe, lowest heat setting and a fast wire setting and I was still burning holes.

But got her done:


After installing the new studs and flange gaskets we bolted up the head pipe, cut and welded the Cat Delete pipe to the bolted flange, I use Stainless bolts here so I can always remove the rest of the exhaust with ease. And with that said the Flowmaster Cat back 50 Series slipped right back in place and I don’t think I’ll need to trim down the tail pipe.







With the exhaust finished I finally felt that thing are going well again and I’m verry happy with how well it did go together. I thought we would be spending much longer on it as I’ve never enjoyed exhaust work, but now with having the welder it makes life so much easier.

With a little time left before we had to leave we did a dry run with the front drive shaft, looks good but I’m leaving it out until we finish the oil lines. We installed the rear shaft, what a pain those Ford Flange bolts are, slow process to tighten them, but the Rear is in and looks great:



For $1250.00 they better fit nice!

This Friday we will be in Tulameen for 16 days minus our 3 day Geocaching event and wedding.

Our first goal is to finish the oil lines, install the gas tank, install the front drive shaft and start her up. Once all the leaks are taken care of we can bleed the brakes and do the first stage of the gear brake in. Get tires and wheels mounted and then take her out for the rest of the brake in procedures. Hopefully we can fab the shock mounts and have shocks installed prior to Whipsaw on July 31st . If I can find time and unsecured internet I will post up pics as soon as I can. Hopefully we can get some video on Whipsaw as well.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks buddy!

You still coming to the Wedding?


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I don't think you'll need the gas tank skid plate but looks like your kid could use one
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't think you'll need the gas tank skid plate but looks like your kid could use one
Ha Ha Ha, you caught that hey Rob?

He thought it was funny that I posted that pic of him with his torn shorts.



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Looking awesome Jordy I love the write up keep up the good work By the way are you getting married this weekend if so congrads you got a good gal there Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looking awesome Jordy I love the write up keep up the good work By the way are you getting married this weekend if so congrads you got a good gal there Geoff
Yup! She's a keeper! That's why I'm letting her marry me!

And yes the wedding is this weekend in Princeton on Sunday. We are running Whipsaw on Saturday, care to join in? Then you can camp out and be there for the wedding as well!!!

VERY NICE!
Thanks Mat!

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