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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

I have decided I am going to buy a Cherokee. I just need some info on them. Ie: years to avoid, axels to avoid, trannies (I know about the Pugeot). What is the best year and why? Hubs? Is it easy to find them with manual hubs? Any years of the 4.0L I should avoid for any reason? What kind of front axel do they usually come with and which dana axels are good? I don't know much about dana axels. Suspension, which kits are good? What companies are good? Are they all coil sprung? What year did the 4.0 HO come out? What is the first year the 4.0 is efi? What about the auto tranny? IS it strong enough to pound on 35's? Is a 258 the 4.2 or 4.0? Are Cherokees xj's or what?


Thanks in advance to anyone who replys.



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93' x-tra cab. I hate my IFS. Ya I know your rig is better than mine.
 

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Ok I shall do my best:

Ok, stay away from the earlier years...I'd go for something 91 and newer..looking for the "HO" (High-Output) 4.0L...

Front axle will be a D30...try to stay away from the vacuum disconnect front axle...identified by a box of sorts attached to the passenger side of the axle tube with a vacuum motor attached. These contain a 2 piece axle and if the vac motor goes out then you lose the drive to the pass wheel.

Rear axles available are the Dana 35, Chrysler 8.25", and Dana 44. ChryCo 8.25" isn't bad, but the 44 would be ideal.

Hubs, automatic. You will not find a XJ with manual hubs unless someone has done a conversion. They do not exist from the factory.


The earlier 4.0's are not bad, but the 91+ are the High Output that you should look for.

Suspension: Front coil, rear spring over axle leaf. Good kits would be the Rubicon Express, Rancho, TeraFlex...the others aren't bad, but I feel that the RE kit would be the best for the money. Go with a full leaf setup instead of the AAL...you'll be glad you spent the extra money.


The Auto tranny (Aisin-Warner 4) is a damn good transmission and I know guys personally who run them with 35x12.50 Swampers. Now, to fit 35's on the rig I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you change the axle up front and in rear (unless it's a D44)...the D30 is weak and anything more than a 33" tire is asking for trouble. I wouldn't put anything bigger than a 33 on it. As for the power to push the 35's...hell yes! The 4.0L (at least for 95) produced 190bhp and 225lb-ft torque! Combine that with a gear change to 4.56's or 4.88's and you'll do just fine. Again, go with a front axle swap... Oh, and to FIT the 35's will require at least 6" lift and SERIOUS fender trimming. Again, you should be able to do fine with just 33's.....save the 35" tire money for lockers and a winch.


FWIW, the 258 wasn't available in the XJ...the 4.0L is a 242cid. And yes, Cherokees are ecksjays.


That help? Oh yeah: Refer to this! http://www.off-road.com/jeep/chero1.txt

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Phil M. - Kent, WA
95 XJ Sport w/Stuff
"Who cares about a list of crap, can you drive it?"

[This message has been edited by nikon_jeeper (edited December 08, 2001).]
 

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What little I know about my own vehicle...

Yes, Cherokees are xj's.

The 4.0 HO came out in '90 or '91. I have a '91, so I know it is in that one, but the latest models actually have even more. My sis-in-law runs a 2001 I think and it gets 210 HP out of the same 4.0 I6, where I only get 190. The '91 I can say for sure is fuel-injected, but I don't know when they phased out the carb.

As far as I know, you can't get manual hubs stock.

The stock auto tranny is apparently better than the stock manual. I have heard it here as well as from Chrysler servicetechies thatthe manual is more trouble than it is worth, while the auto tranny may be one of the most reliable out there period.

The Front is coils and the rear is leafs.

And that is about it for me... I bow to the experts now...

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Cheapass Cherokee Boy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK heres what it looks like so far.

I am going to try for a 1991-1995 XJ. I have a few concerns.

1) What kind of hubs do they have if they are not manual?? You say stay away from the vacum disconnect. What other kind of disconnect is there, how does it work and how common is it?

2) What would be the minimum lift I would need to fit 33X12.50 or 33X10.50? would the 10.50's be easier to fit than the 12.50?

3) How rare is the D44 in back and how isit identified? I really don't want a D35. Although, in the future I will throw a Ford 9 inch inch in so....maybe it doesn't matter.

4) These seem like bloody hell expensive rigs to lift. , what is an AAL? Is it a conversion to leaf springs on all four corners? if so, why is this better? What is the average cost of a RE lift that would fit 33's in Canadian dollars.

Thanks for the help guys.

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93' x-tra cab. I hate my IFS. Ya I know your rig is better than mine.
 

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If there is no vacuum disconnect, it is a complete full time axle.
There are no hubs. It is the equivilant of having the hubs locked at all times. Basically a full time axle, although you decide when it gets power.
D44 was available only in the late 80s. After that it got the Chrysler 8.25. The only way I can tell them apart (knowing not much about axles) is size. The 8.25 is a fair bit bigger than the D35. The 8.25 generally comes in vehicles without ABS.
As for what tire to fit, www.rubiconexpress.com for details. I think some fender trimming and the 4.5" kit fits 33x10.5.
AAL= Add a leaf (for the rears only) They say go for new leafs cause the price difference is not that big and the AALs will generally not perform as well.
XJ lifts cost more because more parts.

Wes

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...a member of the herd
www.hot.alloffroad.com
 

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Originally posted by Wes Rempel:

There are no hubs.
so what sits on the spindles, and what do those little wheel studs come out of??? ya...the hub.

i think you are trying to say the hub doesn't have a locking unit in it, it is splined if i am not mistaken



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'93 sahara ~ rancho springs, SOA, EB axles, detroit, 35s, and hi steer in the works
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK

Man these things are expensive to lift. What lifts do you guys recommend? I am either looking at a 4.5 inch lift and adding an inch coil spacer and shackles in the rear. This combined with a bit of trimming should fit 33X12.50's. Or i could go with a 5.5 inch lift. How much do these typically sell for, which companies are good? So far as I can tell Sky Jacker is definetly best, but it's like $1900 american!!!

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93' x-tra cab. I hate my IFS. Ya I know your rig is better than mine.
 

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The skyjacker 6" rock ready kit WILL NOT fit 33" swampers period not even with lots of fender trimming.

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90 Sub,496BBC,d60,14b,detroits f+r, 44 boggers,th400,np205,insane ,warn15000,balls of steel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
why will other kits but not that one at all? How much do you guys retail that thing for? I know you hate giving out quotes but i don't want a quote. Just a ball park figure.

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93' x-tra cab. I hate my IFS. Ya I know your rig is better than mine.
 

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I am a toy guy also, but am looking to get a XJ/cherokee as well (more of a family 4x)..

I am guessing any year 4cyl in those things are **** ? and if I did find a cheap one with a 4cyl can it easily be swapped to a 4.0? any input...

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Written Off, ICBC.. what a joke.
 

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Originally posted by cornjeeper:
Originally posted by Wes Rempel:

There are no hubs.
so what sits on the spindles, and what do those little wheel studs come out of??? ya...the hub.

i think you are trying to say the hub doesn't have a locking unit in it, it is splined if i am not mistaken
Yup, the hubs are splined right onto the axle shaft. There is no flange that joins the axle shaft to the hub. That means that you cannot bolt lock-outs to an XJ/YJ/TJ/ZJ/MJ/WJ Jeep's hubs. You will need to change the entire hub if you want to install free-wheeling hubs.

...lars

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19911995409993004:144444.103512.58274



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Originally posted by camoburban:
The skyjacker 6" rock ready kit WILL NOT fit 33" swampers period not even with lots of fender trimming.

Keep in mind that a 33" swamper is taller and wider than any other brand of 33.

Still, You can run a normal 33x12.5 on a 4.5" lift and massive fender surgery, so I'd be surprised that you can't run a swamper on a 6" lift with the same surgery. The tough part would be trying to match your shock and bump-stop lengths so that you could fit the big tires and still keep maximum wheel travel.

IMHO a 33x10.5" BGF MT is the ultimate tire for a XJ, since the narrower width lets it stuff inside the fenders.

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Chris S.
2002 KJ - staying stock (almost)
2000 TJ - 2" suspension lift, 1/2" body lift, assorted skids, hooks, rock rails, rock lights, 33" BFG MTs, custom bumper, Warn 8274
Mud Puppy's Jeep site
 

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One thing to rememeber is that for fender triming you can not take that much of the rear wheel-wells. Had one and hacked it up the front is not a problem but with the rear do not just cut the metal off, you have to bend it in. Check out www.naxja.org for some more input.

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86 CJ7 4" lift 33" tires, rear powlock
and much more to come
 

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So many f'ing opinions on this one.

Doug:
http://www.ilovejeeps.com http://www.jeepin.com http://www.madxj.com

Those are just for starters. Please, read up and study the XJ before making decisions based on what you read on a message board. I would recommend though that you start slow with a 2" Budget Boost lift (coil spacer in front, lift block and longer shackle in rear) and go from there. Use what works for you. XJ's are strange animals in that some things work for some people and others don't work for others. Ya know? Good luck.

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Phil M. - Kent, WA
95 XJ Sport w/Stuff
"Who cares about a list of crap, can you drive it?"
 

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Wasn't there a website which showed different lifts with different tire sizes. Also gearing chart and how to correct the speedo????

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86 XJ Procomp 3 inch lift w/ 31s, Crane Ignition, MSD coil, K&N filter, Electric Fan, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake, Torque Cam.
 

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I believe that the RE Xj 5.5" lift is now a six inch lift and the Cj 4" is now 4.5". I run RE 4.5" lift coils with 2" coil spacers up front and 6" Heavy duty leafs in the rear( all RE). The tallest size tire I can run off road with no trimming or rubbing are 32/11.50 muds. I fit 33/12.50 Super Swampers on the street with lots of room to move but have been balsy enough to try this combo on trails. I just checked and RE does make a 6" XJ lift.( Man are those guys ever gonna' update thier website?) Has anyone out there tried coils in the rear? Does anyone know the name of the company that offers that lift?

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80 Cj5, 360amc, Swampers, Custom 5in. lift, Off Road only
92 XJ 6" Rubicon, 32s, strictly street
 

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Has anyone out there tried coils in the rear? Does anyone know the name of the company that offers that lift?
No I have not...but I know folks who have. Basically it's more pain than it's worth...remember that you have to run a trackbar back there when you put coils in. Really though, no advantages by running coils in back.

The company that offers (still?) is TeraFlex. Last I knew it was $$$$ bucks. Not worth it, IMHO. I run stuff that was used and not abused...picked up the rear leaves (4.5" packs that someone pieced together with various leaf springs until they got the rate they wanted) for $50/pair...and the front coils (3") for $50/pair. Bought brand new shocks and a "used" trackbar...all set. I don't have a SYE kit and CV driveshaft yet...but a 1" t-case drop worked fine. Like I said...just use what works for you. Do your f'n homework first though.
I've had no regrets in my lift...and I fit 33x10.50 Swamper TSL radials with very very little trimming (because I'm running stock control arms and the front axle is back a little.)

Just my $0.02 USD

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Phil M. - Kent, WA
95 XJ Sport w/Stuff
"Who cares about a list of crap, can you drive it?"
 
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