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actually, if your only doin the valve seals you wont have to pull the head.
just do one cylinder at a time
make sure both valves are closed and fill the chamber with compressed air via the spark plug hole
then, after removing the valve spring your free to change the seals without having to remove the head:*******
 

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just take apart your least favorite compression tester and adapt it to your compressed air line
just make sure u have a valve in there so u can bleed the air out
 

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Yoda_Man said:
actually, if your only doin the valve seals you wont have to pull the head.
just do one cylinder at a time
make sure both valves are closed and fill the chamber with compressed air via the spark plug hole
then, after removing the valve spring your free to change the seals without having to remove the head:*******

this works with a pushrod engine, but dont forget that its the head bolts that holds down the rocker assembly, which has to be removed to access the springs. as soon as you un-torque the gasket, its theoreticlly toast. even if you tried to do it the ******* way, its likely the head would pop off as soon as you added compressed air. a really old stuck on one might hold, but in such case you'd be stupid not to shell out 20 bones for a new one considering you already have stuff apart.


also, id recomend not using victor brand seals. i put a set in while i was doing a rebuild in the fall and one is completely shot after 10k. yota wants $15 each, which is a little excessive. when i actually get around to replacing them with new ones, ill probably use altrom ones.
 

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I'd be willing to bet that if it's a high mileage motor that it needs valve guides too...
Most any 22r with over 200k needs at least exhaust guides.
if the guides are shot the valve wobbling around will toast the new valve seals quick.
 

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hey, watch this!!!
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i think my valve guides need doing too, if i sit and idle for more than a few momentsand then rev it it smokes real nicely.

does this sound like rings or valve guides? (it doesnt smoke as i drive down the road, only while idleing or during long downgrades while downshifting... whats goin on?
 

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gumbom said:
i think my valve guides need doing too, if i sit and idle for more than a few momentsand then rev it it smokes real nicely.

does this sound like rings or valve guides? (it doesnt smoke as i drive down the road, only while idleing or during long downgrades while downshifting... whats goin on?
yep, valve guide seals. dosent necassarily imply that the guides are shot, but its usually what causes the seals to leak
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Anyone know what the cost of doing valve seals and guides would be at an engine shop?

I imagine the best bet would be to have the valves resurfaced and the deats ground, then what, maybe bronze guides.

Do you think a 3 angle valve grind would be benificial.

Thinking if I took the head in to do the valve train, might as well put in a decent cam and springs.

Do the TRD cams come in a kit form? Such as cam and spring, retainers etc.

Never did find out what goes into doing a cylinder head job.

How would you go about getting a head redone?

Thanx
 
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