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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled the valve cover today to adjust the valve clearances in hopes of slowing down the oild consumption. When I got the cover off, I was hapilly surprised to see a double roller timing chain with steel guides :D Anyways, I adjusted my valve clearances, double checked them before putting everything back together. Started up the engine, they're still clicking away. Ok, so my Haynes manual and my buddies crappy manual have different valve clearance specs. Hanynes tells me .008" for intake, .012" for exhaust. Crappy manual tells me .008" for intake, .014" for exhaust. I initially went with the .014 for whatever reason. I pull everything apart, chnage the exhaust clearances, and recheck the intakes. Put it all back together, start it up, still clicking away. Feeling lazy and annoyed, I didn't feel like pulling it apart a third time, but I did after sitting around doing nothing for a while. So, third time apart evrything is pretty darn good, changed a few a tiny bit, but it made no difference. So why are they still clicking. I know its the valves, so don't go telling me its loose piston pins or something. The guide seals are quite likely worn, but that wouldn't cause them to click? Burnt valves wouldn't either? Also, why does the stupid thing burn so much oil? There are no leaks, but I go through 1-2 litres a week! I do a lot of driving, but still... I am noticing no lack in power. So I don't think the piston rings could be that terribly worn or the valves that horrible burnt.
 

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Is that the original engine? I didn't think the double row timing chain was in engines in 85? I could be wrong about that. On my old 20R it didn't seem like there was a lot of smoke out the tailpipe but there sure was a lot of blow by and it used that much oil also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
its actually an '82 engine
 

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first off, the correct clearance is 0.008" and 0.012". theyre not meant to be silent, that is one of the benefits of a hydraulic lifter, which 20 and 22r's dont use. set them to spec when hot, and live with it. if its really noisy, its quite likely the chian. the guides dont have to be worn or broken to make noise, a slimply worn chain will do it. a quick, unprecise check is pull up on the chain in the middle of the cam sprocket. if you can move it more than a mm or two, it is quite likely stretched.

its actually an '82 engine
this is correct, could also be an 81 22r or a 20r. doesnt matter what valve cover says.
 

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you can tighten the valves up a bit more then what it asks for,but not bye more then 3 more tho,if its a 20 r or 22 r you need to know that oo
but the valves with a roller cam shouldnt make any noise at all.if its a tppit style then yea they are kinda meant to be noisy
 

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bravenight said:
you can tighten the valves up a bit more then what it asks for,but not bye more then 3 more tho,if its a 20 r or 22 r you need to know that oo
but the valves with a roller cam shouldnt make any noise at all.if its a tppit style then yea they are kinda meant to be noisy
im not tryin to agrue here, but i wouldnt overtighen the clearance. doing so can cause the valves not to seat completely and will burn them. the clearance for all 20 and 22r's is the same.
20 and 22r's never came with roller rockers and ive never heard of or seen an aftermarket set.
 

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Jeremy is right, the 22r and 20r valves are generally noisey. Just set them to spec when hot a go from there
 

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hey, watch this!!!
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whoa!!! hold on there.... according to my snap on diagnostic computer program (ok its not mine but my boss does let me use it) the valves should be adjusted COLD to .008 and .012 " if you do it hot they will have too much clearance and hence the excessive noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
gumbom said:
whoa!!! hold on there.... according to my snap on diagnostic computer program (ok its not mine but my boss does let me use it) the valves should be adjusted COLD to .008 and .012 " if you do it hot they will have too much clearance and hence the excessive noise.
allright, I'll try that, b/c it seams to be clicking worse than before.
 

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if you look at the plastic rocker lever spacers on the assy, they will most likely not be the right size and the adjusters will not be touching the center of the valve stems, this causes the ticking in 99% of the toyota engines....mine doesnt tick cause i made new shims:D
 

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the adjusters will not be touching the center of the valve stems
very few people relize that the rocker is not supposed to contact the center of the valve stem. having it slighly off-center causes the valve to rotate slightly each opening. this rotation is important for correct valve to seat wear and a good seal.
according to my snap on diagnostic computer program (ok its not mine but my boss does let me use it) the valves should be adjusted COLD to .008 and .012 "
i have read this too, but this is usually for initial setup, and to recheck when hot. now speaking from personal experience, i have found cold adjusted engine to only change about 0.001" when hot.
b/c it seams to be clicking worse than before
it is possible that when you adjusted your clearance, you increased it from what it was before. when the valve face and seat wear, the valve sits further up in the head when seated, and thus reducing the clearance.
 

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hmm, youll notice that most of them contact in the center though and the rest hit very close to the edge
 

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this topic reminded me to check my lash. all my rockers are consisantly slightly off-center. basically the edge of the adjuster is even with the edge of the stem. anyways, on the other hand i found one of my damn guide seals has poped of the guide.:( now i gota pull the head replace the seals. or just live with the oil-consumption for a little while. doesnt really bother me, just annoying to see an engine with 15k puff blue.
 

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Jeremy don't bother pulling the head to do this job, feed several feet of 1/4" nylon rope into the spark plug hole and then slowly bring the piston towards TDC. This will hold the valves in place when the springs are removed.
 

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ya but you have to remove the rocker assembly to get at the valves. and if i remoce the head bolts to do so, id want to put a new head gasket in. anyways i have to change that damn timing cover. STILL looking for one. il just do it all at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I killed another engine

Yup, driving to work this morning, my engine died. Coming over the Port Mann, in 4th gear, stomping on it, all of a sudden there was a massive rattling sound, like something had fallen off and was being chucked about inside the engine. I made it across the bridge, pulled over, pulled my valve cover initially thinking it might be something in there. I found a tiny little bolt sitting loosely in the head, couldn't see where it came from. I put everything back together, and decided to drive up to 152 and get off the freeway, since it was still running. Bad decision. Engine died half way up the hill, and wouldn't start again. The big yellow truck came and pushed me up the hill so that I wasn't halfway in a lane. I called my boss to let hime know hat was going on, he decided to come and pick me up, and then came up with the idea to tow my truck off the freeway entirely. I was a little leary, but went for it. While he was on his way, I set up the tow strap so we could quickly move. So we towed it down 152, turned onto 108, and parked it on the first side street. While at work I called a friend and he towed it back to my house for me for $40. Now the truck is sitting in my driveway and I don't know what to do. I'm sort of considering selling it with a cooked motor and a whole wack of spare parts (another motor that needs new valves, axles, tranny, tcase, etc). I'm also considering picking up a rebuild from Canada Engines. Anybody have any experience with them? My dad wants me to quite messing around and lease a brand new truck. I'd sorta like to do that, but I like to beat on my truck in the bush, and I like the whole solid axle thing. However a Tacoma with the 3.4L and an e-locker really entices me.
 

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hmmm, small screw? either from the underside of the valve cover or a lash adjuster screw....if it was a lash adjuster then you hit a valve and that might have explained the thing quiting. does the distributor turn? if not then id bank on it being the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
the engine is seized. timing chain is not snapped. I don't think it has anything to do with my valves. Last night the engine was ticking insanely loud, I'd almost actually say it was a knock now that I think about it. My current theory is a loose piston pin (hey, just b/c i said it wasn't in the first post...) complelty came apart.
 
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