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Right now i am running 33's on stock yj axles with 3.55 gears. I was woundering what i need to run 35's ?? I was hoping to keep my stock axles and just change gears. Is this possible??

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92 yj 2 inch body lift,lift shackles, 2.5 rancho lift springs running on 33's
 

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I have heard of and seen ppl running 35's on stock axles. However I don't think I would do it myself. I blew out the spider gears on my d35 with 31's on a moderatly difficult run. If your idea of wheeling is speed bumps and logging roads then you may be ok with just a gear swap. But I would strongly reccomend an axle swap atleast the rear for now. Oh ya the other thing you will need is enough lift to allow it probably 4" suspension with a 1"-2" body and may have to trim a little. SOA with a 1" body [on stock yj springs] no body if the springs are a lifted spring. And last you will need 4 35's


Jason

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92yj d44 front& rear.4.09
33 geolanders
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Ramsey pro+ 8000
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I've got an 89 YJ on stock gears and axles, W/ 7" of lift and I'm running 35" mud kings.The treads not that great and right now I'm more daily driving. But my plans are 4.88's W/ rear D44 or 8.8, and 36"x12.5" Swamper SX. The setup I've got right now is not the stongest, but I have no problem turning 35's W/ the stock 4.0L I swapped in.Good luck. Mudder2.

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I was at a jeep dealership yesterday and i enquired about gearing. The guy behind the counter said that a 4.11 is the lowest gear you'll fit in a stock axled jeep. He may have just been talking about the gears that they sell though.

For reference, Chris S uses 4.10 or 4.11 on his jeep and he's running 33" tires. I'd assume that the gearing is pretty much dead on for his truck.

Also, when i posted way the hell back in the day about 33" tires, many people voiced that they would be ok on my stock axles as long as i took it easy on the gas. 35" tires are a fair bit bigger...

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Stock 2000 Jeep TJ Sport
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do it right the first time. axle swap with a SOA. your d35 will not hold up to 35s and that is an open 35. if you ever think about putting a locker in you will be snapping axles everytime you are on the trail. i think this will turn out a little more expensive in the long run.

ps. save your $ as i am going to be selling my detroit locked EB 9" in the spring time as soon as i get my ff 9" finished.

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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroits f+r, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!
 

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Originally posted by mudder2:
I've got an 89 YJ on stock gears and axles, W/ 7" of lift and I'm running 35" mud kings.The treads not that great and right now I'm more daily driving. But my plans are 4.88's W/ rear D44 or 8.8, and 36"x12.5" Swamper SX. The setup I've got right now is not the stongest, but I have no problem turning 35's W/ the stock 4.0L I swapped in.Good luck. Mudder2.


By the sounds of it (due to the swapped in 4L explanation), the "stock gears" he's talking about are the 4.10's found in 2.5L YJ's. I wouldn't think that my 3.07's would do a very good job with 35's


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No, it used to be a 4.2L until one of the wrist pins went. Mudder2.

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gotta agree with cornjeeper, if your gonna do it, might aswell do it right the first time...no sense in doing the job once and the going back and doing it again...well i don't know about u but time is money...

allan

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93 YJ, 4" lift with 32's.
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Originally posted by Baby Joe:
I was at a jeep dealership yesterday and i enquired about gearing. The guy behind the counter said that a 4.11 is the lowest gear you'll fit in a stock axled jeep. He may have just been talking about the gears that they sell though.

For reference, Chris S uses 4.10 or 4.11 on his jeep and he's running 33" tires. I'd assume that the gearing is pretty much dead on for his truck.

Also, when i posted way the hell back in the day about 33" tires, many people voiced that they would be ok on my stock axles as long as i took it easy on the gas. 35" tires are a fair bit bigger...

4.10 gears are the highest ratio you'll find on the Chrysler Jeeps. You can buy aftermarket up to 4.88 though.

33" tires + Dana 35 doesn't guarantee axle or diff breakage but it will raise your odds of breakage. I know Andrew Walters has been running 33's and a Dana 35 for a long time without problems. It all depends on how comfortable you are with the risk. I ran 31's and a locker with my Dana 35 for a long time, and then 33's for about six months before I got around to doing my axle swap. Never suffered any axle breakage but I have seen others break. I've also helped repair D35 breakage so I know how long it takes and how easily it can happen. That was enough to convince me to swap axles. I've personally been involved with FOUR broken D35s and know of at least that many others among my fourwheeling acquantainces.

The other thing to consider is that with larger tires, you will now have the ability to tackle harder trails which in turn will put additional stress on your axles (not to mention the additional stress just from running larger tires with more traction).

If you are going to be doing trails like Upper Hut or anything harder than that (ie: moderate to difficult trails), then I'd encourage you to save your money for an axle swap. The Ford 8.8" swap is probably the one I'd go for if you're not interested in going really, really hardcore. I think an 8.8" + the stock D30 front is good enough for most 'wheeling. But if you eventually want to swap out the D30 as well, then I'd choose a different rear axle, one with a wheel bolt pattern that will match whatever front axle you will eventually put in.

...lars

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by Baby Joe:

By the sounds of it (due to the swapped in 4L explanation), the "stock gears" he's talking about are the 4.10's found in 2.5L YJ's. I wouldn't think that my 3.07's would do a very good job with 35's


I got 3.55's in my jeep

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92 yj 2 inch body lift,lift shackles, 2.5 rancho lift springs running on 33's
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ps. save your $ as i am going to be selling my detroit locked EB 9" in the spring time as soon as i get my ff 9" finished.

[/B][/QUOTE]

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

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92 yj 2 inch body lift,lift shackles, 2.5 rancho lift springs running on 33's
 

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Brent,

How are you putting together your FF 9"? Aftermarket kit, or something you're fabbing yourself? Cornjeeper and I have been throwing around ideas for attaching new flanges to a 9" housing, and haven't come up with anything great yet. Any thoughts?

Chris

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hey chris i think brent forgot to leave all the
things in when he replied to my post. hehe

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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroits f+r, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!
 

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Originally posted by cwate:

Cornjeeper and I have been throwing around ideas for attaching new flanges to a 9" housing, and haven't come up with anything great yet. Any thoughts?
What's the issue? I was talking to Cornjeeper about this a few weeks ago. Are you concerned about how to weld the flange on or how to keep the gear oil in the housing?

...lars




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hey cornjeeper....
how much?
and what gearing?


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1992 YJ with 33's

[This message has been edited by RYJAY (edited February 27, 2002).]
 

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Originally posted by lars:
What's the issue
it only real problem is getting the flanges totally concentric with the carrier bearings so the axle will spin true inside the spindle. we have the seal issue worked out already. we just need to deside how to get the flanges on the housing...press fit, butt weld w/jig, make an adaptor to mate EB flange to spindle etc...

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'93 sahara ~ SOA w/ tuff country springs, np435, twin sticked d20, d44, 9", detroits f+r, hi steer...and a autometer/CJ dash!!!
 

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Originally posted by cornjeeper:
it only real problem is getting the flanges totally concentric with the carrier bearings so the axle will spin true inside the spindle. we have the seal issue worked out already. we just need to deside how to get the flanges on the housing...press fit, butt weld w/jig, make an adaptor to mate EB flange to spindle etc...
A jig would be a good idea. If nothing else, you can use it to check the alignment when you're done.

...lars



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I would recommend a jig. It is possible that the housing you are starting with could be bent. When I built up my nine inch housing I ended up with a couple of junkyard housings that were both bent when I checked them with the jig I built.

The jig is really a no brainer, use a piece of 1.5" cold rolled bar and make pucks to fit the housing ends and carrier bearings. It is best to use 4 for accuracy. I still have them and the bar if you want to use them, although you would have to make a long sleeve to keep the spindle true instead of using a puck in the housing end. Take your time with the spindle pucks as the fit must be accurate, and longer would be better to keep it square.

You best bet would be to cut off the housing ends or make your own and align them with the spindles mounted to them to the housing. I don't have much faith in those factory housings after seeing two bent ones, one from a car and one from a truck.

I backbraced and cut the bottom off for clearance and welded a 3/8 inch plate on mine, and I was suprised at how much the heat can bend a housing,even with a TIG welder, but heating along the lengths of the tubes on the opposite side with an oxy acetylene torch brought it back straight and then weld the ends on with the jig. You might not be perfectly centered on the tubes, but the ends will be true to the carrier.

Chris
 

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Chris W, Chris S and Cornjeeper: let me know when/if you guys are going to make or use a jig. I definitely want to do a tech article on it.

That's good info, Chris S. Hey, when straightening the housing, did you just heat it with the torch or did you put a damp rag on it to cool it quickly as well?


...lars

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Chris S: we'd really like to get our hands on the jig you made. Would that be a problem?

Corn, after going back and forth on this a few times, I think the most sensible way to do this is to go back to plan A: cut the factory ends off to the length we want, and butt-weld those special flanges on using Chris' jig. We can strengthen the welds by wrapping some sections of 3" tubing over top of the seams and welding all around them.

We'll need a GOOD welder to do that work for us. I don't trust my skills that far.

Chris

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