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What to look out for 4runner

5K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  bcsavage 
#1 ·
Going to look at what is being called an 89 but I think it's newer than that (at least a 90) price is dirt cheap and it looks rust free in the pics I saw. Figured there has to be something wrong with it. Owner says it's an sr5 with the 3.0 v6 and runs/drives fine. Just curious if there is specifically anything I should look at for when I go see it and also what headaches I should be looking forward to owning a toy. Also what's the deal with the ifs? I mean I know solid axle is better for crawling but for general use off road and as a daily driver ifs might be good for me? Usage plans are mostly just getting out of the city with the wife and kids to do some camping and exploring. Which reminds me, what's the towing capacity on these buggars? Pop-up tent trailer ok? What about 12ft travel trailer? I'm a complete boob to Toyota's but I hear they hold value better and break less often than jeep Cherokees lol
 
#2 ·
If the top is fiberglass and can be removed it's an '89. If it's metal and can't be removed it's a '90.

3.0L had a problem with Head Gaskets. There was a huge service campaign at the dealer which is now over. 1st question for me would be to ask the seller if the HG recall was ever done. You could alternately supply the dealer with the VIN and ask them as well.

Pop the rad cap and check the oil before you start it. Check to see if the coolant and oil have mixed (looks like chocolate milk). This is a clear indication of bad head gaskets and more problems to follow. (ie: costly engine rebuild)

Check for a rusty frame in the rear on the inside portion where it would follow the wheel arch. Older Toyota trucks are prone to rusting there.

IMO the best bet is to take it to a qualified tech for a pre purchase inspection. A professional will let you know if it's a lemon.

IFS is fine for mild to moderate wheeling. Better at speed on the Hwy. as well. The 3.0L has a decent amount of torque so towing something light wouldn't be a problem. My '88 with a 22RE tows my small aluminum boat and trailer with no problems.

Toyota make a great truck. I've owned three so far.....
 
#17 ·
#3 ·
All metal.

Body looks mint. Would it be normal to have a rust free body and still have a rusty frame?
 
#6 ·
True, but you can usually tell when bondo has been slopped on. I'd link the truck but I don't want one of youses to pilfer it out from under me lol.
 
#8 ·
u have pm
 
#9 ·
How much lift would I need to get a 35" tire under a 90's 4runner?

"Search noob!"

Too lazy, trying to google and pay attention to 2 whining kids is about as easy as watching an episode of the Rosie O'Donnel show. Good f'n luck lol
 
#11 ·
i would find some more money and buy this
http://abbotsford.en.craigslist.ca/cto/1627481796.html
this is a pretty good deal. you get the 3.4 v6 that has zero problems in '96 and up. it also has a better suspension set up with coilovers instead of torsion bars. it should also be rated to tow somewhere around 4000lbs.

you don't need 35's. 3" of lift and 33's is all you really need for a small to midsized vehicle. when you get into the longer wheelbase full size trucks then you start needing 35's to get around alot of the more difficult trails.
 
#12 ·
yah I've already dropped down to a more realistic 33 or 31 lol How about a procomp 4" lift?

show me which rock to look under to find all this money and I'll look at more expensive trucks. Right now, budget isn't there.

and actually that's the one thing that's bothering me about the yotas is the torsion bars. And an SAS is neither cheap nor easy from what I've been reading. That's why I was leaning towars a cherokee because it's already solid axle and coils up front.
 
#13 ·
are you going to be rock crawling and flexing out over large obstacles that cause you body damage? then you need a solid axle truck.

the newer versions of ifs are good enough for what you want to do. torsion bars were still ok too for the price you pay for one of those trucks.

a front end on a solid axle cherokee is no cheaper or easier to repair than an ifs truck. cherokess use unit bearings, ball joints, tie rods and have joints on axle shafts much like ifs trucks do too. don't get stuck on the solid axle idea because alot of others on here feel that it is a must.
 
#14 ·
Not extremely no (rock crawling) but I do like the occasional challenge (be it a dried up creek bed or the random fallen tree). Mostly for camping and exploring. Guess the reason I'm stuck on solid axles and cherokees is that's what I had before when I first joined this site.

anyone remember this thing?


bought it for $1200 wheeled it basically as I bought it for a year then sold it to someone for $1k (after selling the procomp tires for $300 and putting some random a/t's on it). I remember that thing was unstoppable for where I was taking it and it made me feel good to not get stuck. I'd like to keep those same feelings with my next 4x4. I'm gonna search youtube to see if I can find a close-to-stock yota playing in the dirt to get an idea of what they can do.
 
#15 ·
one of the things that bugs me about the 4 runner is the belly is completely flat, nicely tucked in the frame rails...except for the t-case, that sucker hangs a good 4" below the frame rails.
 
#16 ·
Ialso a concern but can be solved with a skid plate. Tearing off a torsion bar though, only way to fix that is better driving :p
 
#19 ·
i did it in my 2wd mazda, but it was stock/slightly lowered. either way, horrible torsion bar experience in a shell parkinglot lol
 
#21 ·
Thanks, I'll add that to my list. How is the fuel mileage on the 3.0 compared to a jeep 4L? I'm gonna go look at this 4runner sometime today. Hopefully it's as good as it looks.
 

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#22 ·
What's a 90's rust-free stock runner typically sell for these days? This ones listed at $1900, depending on what I see when I go look at it I want to make an informed offer.
 
#24 ·
Lol, I have been searching craigslist, castanet, autotrader and kijiji. Reason I ask the question here is I want a buyers point of view not a sellers average. Just cuz they list a vehicle at 4k doesn't mean that's what they are worth or typically sell for. But going by our pm I know you think it's a good deal if it's as clean and rust free as it looks.
 
#25 ·
LOL ........ I was just stirrin' the pot

I paid $4K for mine. 1988 4Runner DLX absolutely rust free and in great condition. It was brought up from the U.S. (AZ at first, then Eastern WA)

The GF's rig was $3500 1986 4runner same condition as mine. Also a US vehicle.

$1900 seems fair as long as there are no major issues. That rig looks clean, good luck on the buy mang

:popcorn :popcorn
 
#27 ·
if it stays for sale for more than a couple days then it's not the deal you think it is.

good deals go on the first or second day. humming and hawing gets you a fair vehicle at a fair price or sacrifice condition for price.
 
#28 ·
True enough. Hopefully my car sells tomorrow. I also found a 96 but it would consume my whole budget and isn't local so travel costs.
 
#31 ·
Lol, wow I forgot about this thread. I ended up buying a 1992 4-door cherokee with a 3.5" RE lift and added some 33X13.5 Toyo O/C MT's ;)
 

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