Going to look at what is being called an 89 but I think it's newer than that (at least a 90) price is dirt cheap and it looks rust free in the pics I saw. Figured there has to be something wrong with it. Owner says it's an sr5 with the 3.0 v6 and runs/drives fine. Just curious if there is specifically anything I should look at for when I go see it and also what headaches I should be looking forward to owning a toy. Also what's the deal with the ifs? I mean I know solid axle is better for crawling but for general use off road and as a daily driver ifs might be good for me? Usage plans are mostly just getting out of the city with the wife and kids to do some camping and exploring. Which reminds me, what's the towing capacity on these buggars? Pop-up tent trailer ok? What about 12ft travel trailer? I'm a complete boob to Toyota's but I hear they hold value better and break less often than jeep Cherokees lol
If the top is fiberglass and can be removed it's an '89. If it's metal and can't be removed it's a '90.
3.0L had a problem with Head Gaskets. There was a huge service campaign at the dealer which is now over. 1st question for me would be to ask the seller if the HG recall was ever done. You could alternately supply the dealer with the VIN and ask them as well.
Pop the rad cap and check the oil before you start it. Check to see if the coolant and oil have mixed (looks like chocolate milk). This is a clear indication of bad head gaskets and more problems to follow. (ie: costly engine rebuild)
Check for a rusty frame in the rear on the inside portion where it would follow the wheel arch. Older Toyota trucks are prone to rusting there.
IMO the best bet is to take it to a qualified tech for a pre purchase inspection. A professional will let you know if it's a lemon.
IFS is fine for mild to moderate wheeling. Better at speed on the Hwy. as well. The 3.0L has a decent amount of torque so towing something light wouldn't be a problem. My '88 with a 22RE tows my small aluminum boat and trailer with no problems.
Toyota make a great truck. I've owned three so far.....
lol.... I'd search around a little more if I were you. For the kind of $$ you spend fitting a 35" tire under that stock truck you could buy an already built rig
i would find some more money and buy this http://abbotsford.en.craigslist.ca/cto/1627481796.html
this is a pretty good deal. you get the 3.4 v6 that has zero problems in '96 and up. it also has a better suspension set up with coilovers instead of torsion bars. it should also be rated to tow somewhere around 4000lbs.
you don't need 35's. 3" of lift and 33's is all you really need for a small to midsized vehicle. when you get into the longer wheelbase full size trucks then you start needing 35's to get around alot of the more difficult trails.
3.4's also had a head gasket campaign. (903 if memory serves me) and they had a habit of breaking off connecting rods randomly with no warning. they did make better power stock though.
yah I've already dropped down to a more realistic 33 or 31 lol How about a procomp 4" lift?
show me which rock to look under to find all this money and I'll look at more expensive trucks. Right now, budget isn't there.
and actually that's the one thing that's bothering me about the yotas is the torsion bars. And an SAS is neither cheap nor easy from what I've been reading. That's why I was leaning towars a cherokee because it's already solid axle and coils up front.
are you going to be rock crawling and flexing out over large obstacles that cause you body damage? then you need a solid axle truck.
the newer versions of ifs are good enough for what you want to do. torsion bars were still ok too for the price you pay for one of those trucks.
a front end on a solid axle cherokee is no cheaper or easier to repair than an ifs truck. cherokess use unit bearings, ball joints, tie rods and have joints on axle shafts much like ifs trucks do too. don't get stuck on the solid axle idea because alot of others on here feel that it is a must.
Not extremely no (rock crawling) but I do like the occasional challenge (be it a dried up creek bed or the random fallen tree). Mostly for camping and exploring. Guess the reason I'm stuck on solid axles and cherokees is that's what I had before when I first joined this site.
anyone remember this thing?
bought it for $1200 wheeled it basically as I bought it for a year then sold it to someone for $1k (after selling the procomp tires for $300 and putting some random a/t's on it). I remember that thing was unstoppable for where I was taking it and it made me feel good to not get stuck. I'd like to keep those same feelings with my next 4x4. I'm gonna search youtube to see if I can find a close-to-stock yota playing in the dirt to get an idea of what they can do.
one of the things that bugs me about the 4 runner is the belly is completely flat, nicely tucked in the frame rails...except for the t-case, that sucker hangs a good 4" below the frame rails.
Thanks, I'll add that to my list. How is the fuel mileage on the 3.0 compared to a jeep 4L? I'm gonna go look at this 4runner sometime today. Hopefully it's as good as it looks.
What's a 90's rust-free stock runner typically sell for these days? This ones listed at $1900, depending on what I see when I go look at it I want to make an informed offer.
Lol, I have been searching craigslist, castanet, autotrader and kijiji. Reason I ask the question here is I want a buyers point of view not a sellers average. Just cuz they list a vehicle at 4k doesn't mean that's what they are worth or typically sell for. But going by our pm I know you think it's a good deal if it's as clean and rust free as it looks.
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